No, you're right, it's a good visual indication.
By programming, I mean if the device with the label stuck over it (on the other side of the board) has different firmware in it, so that the passive immobiliser function is disabled for the R75, or if just fitting the missing parts would actually enable that.
Do you know if the passive immobiliser part is coded to the car as well, or if all D2 keys send out the same code, i.e. if you unlock the car with the correct fob and then put a key from a different D2 in the ignition, is the immobiliser turned off? Hmm, talking of codes, maybe we shouldn't be having this conversation 'in the clear'!
 
I can try using a D2 key that is not coded to the car.

If I take my original D2 key, disable it using my nanocom, use a R75 key to enter the car via the fob, then I can see if the D2 key would work. This would simluate what I beleive you are saying above.

AFAIK, the keys have individual codes , which are synced using the nanocom. But it would be an interesting experiment.

Never thougth about modifying a R75 key too work in exactly the same way as an original D2 key, as having to press the key if the immobiliser cuts in is not an issue in the real world.

Cheers
 
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This gets very irritating now!..
The fob appears to work fine for my partner she walks out puts the key in and it works, it even locks/unlocks on the fob.. with me I have to use the EKA.. I guess above all its a rover.. however discounting magic curses or similar, how can this be? And no she wont swap it for her RRC!. I have a second key on its way, so I may need to arrange a visit! (there is another issue that needs seeing to)
 
Sounds like you are having fun,

Strange your Missus can get it to work but it does not for you..........Have you tried standing on one leg and holding the fob to your head while you press the button???:p

Cheers
 
neilly said:
Sounds like you are having fun,

Strange your Missus can get it to work but it does not for you..........Have you tried standing on one leg and holding the fob to your head while you press the button???:p

Cheers
Click to expand...

Not as daft as it sounds - if you hold the fob to your head your skull acts like an amplifier and the fob will work from further away. I thought this was absolute rubbish till I tried it.....
 
Hi guys,
I keep seeing that people mention how you can retrieve the EKA code with a Nanocom. How would one go about doing that? Which screen is it on? How is it titled?
Thanks a lot.
Have a great day
Dule
 
Hi, in Valeo BCU - Utility (second page), you can change it to a combination of small numbers to be easy to insert just give it to the next owner if you sell the vehicle
 
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Discovery II -> Td5 or Motronic -> Valeo BCU -> Utility -> press green arrow to EKA Code -> press READ.
 
Juke179r et al. thank you for this thread!

My 2000 Disco II XYZ switch (neutral safety switch) is out or my ECU/BCU forgot who it was. The poor guy has been sitting with a dead battery in storage since 2015 while I traveled Europe for my company, so I think it may be the BCU or ECU battery ran out. The vehicle will not start, will not even turn over, will not leave Park, will not lock or unlock the doors using the fob or main control, and is flashing S and M lights along with several others on the dash when I turn the key. The fobs have new batteries and I installed a new main battery yet it still does not recognize the key fobs.

Reading through this thread I have called my local LR Dealer and obtained my EKA Codes, found an online service to create new keys for me (remotekey uk), and contacted Blackbox/nanocom-diagnostics about diagnostic equipment. This very old thread has been very helpful. Will let you all know if it works out.
 
Bringing life to an old thread again, I am on the ground in Texas with my Disco II and tried to get it started. The EKA I was given 7153 and 9268 did not work. What I find curious is the horn will not beep when holding the key in lock position for 5 seconds, also the anti-theft system light is not illuminating. Codes displayed are P1668 and P0705. On the dash display my oil pressure, battery, M, and S lights are still flashing. We used a basic $50 code reader to reset the codes while deciding on whether to buy the nanocom equipment or just tow to a dealer. Has anyone tried hooking a laptop to their Landy and reformatting that way?
 
It's possible that your BCU is at fault that's why it refuses the EKA too, the easyest way would be to buy an unlocked BCU from a serious seller who has a syncronised fob for it too (eventually the EKA code) then you are remobilised, it would be cheaper than buying a nanocom to end up buying a BCU too after that but a nanocom would pay for itself in o time anyway.... try to find something like this in your country or import https://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover...2434?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c4#viTabs_0
 
Thank you for the link, I will look locally and also reach out to the seller about sending to me here in Texas. Looks like you have an impressive 2000 yourself! I hope to get mine back on and off the road soon enough.
 
Good luck, be aware, you have to disconnect the battery before the BCU swap then after the reconnection turn ignition on 2 and leave it so 5 minutes, then unlock with the fob once and it should start, try to find one locally removed from an automatic V8 then if it has fob too it's plug and play cos if you import from UK you'll need a nanocom or similar to set the BCU for petrol engine and addapt the rest of settings to your vehicle
 
I have already been all over ebay and found multiple sellers who specialize in Land Rover. Lots of BCUs available for less than $100, I have contacted a couple asking about the associated key fob. Your advice has lightened my mood tremendously. I love that beast of a vehicle and was at a loss what to do. Thankfully between this thread and your advice I am sure he will be back on the road! For the benefit of any future persons in my position I will report back once everything has been fixed with what all was required.
 
What i forgot to say is that if the mileage stored in the replacement BCU is higher you might end up with that on the odometer and if the vehicle is on factory settings the odometer will flash and nanocom or similar is needed to disable the odometer error warning but this won't stop the vehicle to start and run
 
I am glad you mentioned that, there are only 129K or 139K miles on the odometer right now. The nanocom is a certain purchase, as much as I tinker with my vehicles it seems an indispensable tool in the chest. I will take a picture of the miles as a baseline before switching them out.
 
Update, still waiting on the nanocom and have not yet ordered a new/used BCU: With a new battery installed it still would not crank or leave park, it was completely immobilized. I left the key in #2 position and began meticulously pulling fuses one by one from the box located in the engine compartment, until all fuses were removed, then put them back in place. I did find my horn fuse was blown during this process and it seems pulling all the fuses reset the codes. The P1668 and P0705 are gone and after leaving for about an hour to eat dinner, I came back and the key fob was working. So, now it locks and unlocks with the fob and cranks with a no-start condition. The only code it throws right now is a P0447. Tomorrow I will make the 212 mile round trip and check the spark condition, I was alone yesterday and could not test whether it was getting a spark. It certainly is getting fuel because after cranking multiple times I could smell it in the air.
 
Update 2: Changed a blown fuse in the passenger cabin located under the steering column and now the engine turns over and there is spark BUT the air leveling system is not responding and there is no fuel... finally get the P1668, P0705, and P0447 codes to disappear with simple changing of blown fuses and now there is no fuel flow :mad: . Plan on checking all the relays this weekend then checking power to the fuel pump and injectors.
 
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