F

freddiefree

New Member
Hi, this is a first for me so hello to all..
I have a 2005 Freelander TD4. Can you tell if a caked up egr would cause power loss and the eml to come on?
I have had the car 4 weeks now and it was well overdue a service (last one 91000 now covered 116000) so I have a friend of a friend and he did a full service for me. When it came back it seemed smoother and then after about a week I was going up a fairly sharp incline and the power in 2nd gear was not enough to see me to the top. I had to go into 1st and crawl up. Hence the eml came on.
I have noticed one or two other things with the car which reading these pages points to the egr valve and so I thought I would start there and blank it off. I took it off today and boy how gunky was that. Have a look at the picture. What are the experts thought on my way forward? Thank you
 

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When was the fuel filter last changed?
possibly a low pressure fuel pump problem. (may need replacing)
 
No. A gummed up EGR doesn't put the MIL on. Nor does removing it ;)
Defo check the LP pump or filter as stated.
 
Hi Epicuser and Nodge68 - thanks. The fuel filter was changed at the service about two weeks ago. Would you suggest I take the car for a diagnostic or, how do you go about checking for a faulty pump? By the way, it uses a lot of fuel?
 
The LP fuel pump can fail internally or suffer bad connections. The loss of power and MIL are common signs of this.
You should be able to hear the pump running. It's located under the RHS rear wheel liner in front of the wheel.
 
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freddiefree said:
Hi Epicuser and Nodge68 - thanks. The fuel filter was changed at the service about two weeks ago. Would you suggest I take the car for a diagnostic or, how do you go about checking for a faulty pump? By the way, it uses a lot of fuel?
Click to expand...

I have heard of reports that if the fuel pump is on its way out, and the filter is replaced, that the fuel pump can be disturbed and fail soon after.

Some of the symptoms of a failing LP fuel pump:
Engine will not rev to red line.
EML comes on, but when you back off, it goes out.
Fuel pump makes a different noise to normal.
lack of power.

this list is not exhaustive.
 
Thank you Guys... I will keep you posted as I cannot get on with it now until Thursday. I really appreciate your input. I have never been mechanic minded but am looking at this as a new hobby and very interested in doing as much as I can. Regards, Mike
 
if that egr valve is like that I would recommend you take the whole inlet of and give it a good clean, a very mucky job but it will be worth it.
 
Hey Guys - just to let you know that when tested, it pointed exactly where you said it would - the fuel pump! It has been changed at a cost of 165 fitted (I did not do it myself) and it has cured the sluggishness and no more nasty lights coming on! - Bravo and thank you

I would like to add though - the new fuel pump buzzes like a bee constantly when the ignition is turned on. Is that normal or does a new pump need time to bed in, so to speak?

Cheers for now
 
freddiefree said:
I would like to add though - the new fuel pump buzzes like a bee constantly when the ignition is turned on. Is that normal or does a new pump need time to bed in, so to speak?

Cheers for now
Click to expand...


Normal. Some are noisier than others. Happens every time the ignition is turned on. It is priming the system.
 
Think I worded it wrong. It buzzes constantly from the time you turn the key to the time you turn it off. And, it was a pig to start coming home from work this evening. Any thoughts? Thanks Epicuser
 
Find out where the pump came from, £165 fitted is really cheap if a genuine or OE pump was fitted, OE pumps cost about £125 plus 1 hours labour which would be much more than the price you were charged. Cheaper pumps are known to be noisy and suffer premature failure.
 
Agreed. I paid over the top so I could get it next day, and that cost me £160 and took about an hour of my time to fit. Most of the time taken is undoing one of the bolts that holds it on. There isn't much room. I guess a ratchet 10mm spanner would help.
 
Took me about 2 hours as I had to cut off the bracket bolts and replace all the rotted rivets, the whole lot, pump and filter was only held in place by the pipework.
 
Last edited:
nickcc said:
Took me about 2 hours as I had to cut off the bracket bolts and replace all the rotted rivets, the whole lot, pump and fiter, was only held in place by the pipework.
Click to expand...


Yeah, I had to do that first time last year. Painted it all in black hammerite retapped the threads in the car and the bolts. Then riveted it all back together.
 
Hi, have spoken with the garage and they confirmed it was not LR or OEM. Made the decision to get an LR pump myself and have the one that's on at the moment changed. Picked up a LR pump for 141 + 5 for postage. I am happy with that. Thanks all for your comments and advice
 
freddiefree said:
Hi, have spoken with the garage and they confirmed it was not LR or OEM. Made the decision to get an LR pump myself and have the one that's on at the moment changed. Picked up a LR pump for 141 + 5 for postage. I am happy with that. Thanks all for your comments and advice
Click to expand...

Typical money grabbing garage, buy the cheapest and sod the customer, think I'd be asking for the cost of the original pump to be refunded.
 
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