Alibro
Well-Known Member
Probably best start a new thread in the main Freelander section as this thread is all about EGR blanking.
ming
SPACE TWOT
Ok yous lot ,bout 3 weeks ago I was bored so just out of interest took the manifold gubbins off, was quite surprised at how clean it was , ok a bit of ****e but nothing near the first gunk I had when me an young Porky (eeze er furra bread ) first did the mod, and yes I've been through the MOT without any problems at all.
Burntweenie
Member
Mine's passed two MOTs now with the mod. I just make sure to blow its nose on my way to the test center.
Myvanway
Member
Think this is a good little addition to help preserve my engine, just purchased one on eBay.
Is it worth while cleaning the sensor as well?
Electrical contact cleaner is what I used on my golf turbo after fitting a k&n airfilter I realised they don’t like oil splattered over the sensor... ran pants and had to keep cleaning it every other week!!?
Is it worth while cleaning the sensor as well?
Electrical contact cleaner is what I used on my golf turbo after fitting a k&n airfilter I realised they don’t like oil splattered over the sensor... ran pants and had to keep cleaning it every other week!!?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Hopefully you got the correct EGR bypass, which supports the exhaust transfer pipe.
The whole inlet manifold needs cleaning, as it'll be full of horrible black gunge. The MAP sensor will also need cleaning. Be aware that a visible EGR bypass is now an MOT fail, so be prepared to swap it back at MOT time, if the examiner sees it.
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Yes I think John may have thought you had an FL1 in which case he is spot, on, FL2 as you say is just a plate at the front 5 minute job to fit.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes. Sorry. I assumed it was the FL1, not the FL2.
The FL2 is easier and more discrete to do.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Machined exhaust joints don't need any sealer. Just make sure the joint is clean. Any microscopic leaks will seal themselves as they fill with soot.
Myvanway
Member
Thanks for replying, as it’s raining and blowing a gail outside I’ll do it tomorrow and see if there’s a noticeable difference.
It runs quite smooth anyhow, but if it helps to keep the engine ware down and increase mpg it is a no brainier.... got to be worth a try a 4 quid!
Next job is to check filter!... if it looks worn I’m looking into replacing that. I’m Not a fan of K&N (oiled filters in general), looking for a good dry filter that won’t mess with the air flow meter!?
Is OG best?
It runs quite smooth anyhow, but if it helps to keep the engine ware down and increase mpg it is a no brainier.... got to be worth a try a 4 quid!
Next job is to check filter!... if it looks worn I’m looking into replacing that. I’m Not a fan of K&N (oiled filters in general), looking for a good dry filter that won’t mess with the air flow meter!?
Is OG best?
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Use paper, as it's safer.
Oiled filters do mess up hot wire MAFs, so avoiding them is sensible.
Just use a quality paper filter and change it every 12K miles.
