tlo said:

Just a quick update on this it is now idling so bad it is cutting out weather it be hot or cold I took it round the block and it pulls like a train but that second light keeps coming on .I have emailed a few places trying to find out what it is but no joy yet ,I will check the egr mod tomorrow and as advised put the old one on and see what happens . I did have a job getting the blanking part to seat properly should have done that first , if that is not seating right could that cause the bad idling ? it has to be something I have done not done it was running ok before
Thank you poprivet I have to admit the hoses are soft

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You need to get the codes read. Fitting an EGR blanking mod won't put any lights as the EDC doesn't monitor EGR function. The EDC is also a pre-programmed to function with various parts of the system missing (like the EGR) and doesn't learn on the fly.

Like Alibro said. Something has been disturbed while doing the work. A code read is the best way forward.

I am sorry I should have started a new thread but I have just thought I used carb cleaner to clean my inlet manifold do you think it has ruined the orange seals ? Like I have said under load it goes like a train

tlo said:

I am sorry I should have started a new thread but I have just thought I used carb cleaner to clean my inlet manifold do you think it has ruined the orange seals ? Like I have said under load it goes like a train

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I doubt carb cleaner will have damaged those seals. Did you completely remove the inlet manifold? If so they may be slightly pinched when you replaced it/them? When I removed my inlet the rubber gaskets were a little hard/past their best but I refitted them anyway. Your issue maybe as Nodge says, something that you have possibly dislodged/moved in and around the EGR valve. One thing I noticed on mine is that at higher revs the car goes very well, lower end of the game it got worse....anything positive at one end makes other symptoms worse. Reading some threads on here my issues seems(?) to indicate a MAF issue. I haven't looked this as of yet(its a long story, should have been done before) and IIRC the MAF can effect low end running more...? You EGR isn't activated at lower revs(again IIRC) so, if you have verifed that everything you disconnnected is reattached and nothing else is amiss that you can see...it may be your MAF. Will try to find the article I was reading yesterday regards this and post the link.....

Today I replaced the parts as landrover intended and still the same thing just to check to see if it was the new parts (you never know) still the same , so being as all you helpful people have these mods fitted with no probs I put them back on . The only difference was I sprayed carb cleaner down the hose that houses the sensor
Low and behold it has made one hell of a difference . The second light what ever that is(limp home ?) goes out and the power is back the only prob I seem to have is the tick over is a little lumpy I am wondering if the spray is a short term fix . I am hoping this will help anyone else who gets this prob one last thing is what is this sensor and should I change it anyway ? its hard to believe such a small thing can mess the engine up that much Thank you every one for all your help and advice

That's the post intercooler temp sensor. It's not responsible for your running problem. Often the wires break and the driver doesn't notice the difference.
Have you had the codes read yet?

I have tried with a friends fault reader but it says the car has no codes stored

My fairly decent code reader doesn't like Freelander DTC's and I think something like a Hawkeye or similar product would be best for home use, if you had the urge to fork out for it. Maybe a specialist can recover the codes with their diagnostictrickery stuff......

You squirting at that sensor may have caused a mild change in sensor/ECU interaction but I doubt it will last....as Nodge mentions it has nowt to do with your issue (from what it does etc) Getting the DTC's read is a step towards diagnosing the problem and given a general direction to look in....otherwise you could end up chasing your tail...forever. Have you unplugged you MAF sensor after start up...? Any change of performance at lower end could indicate that its on its way out (as in it runs a lot better!) and it's something you can do without cost. Just remember to reconnect it as it probably won't start if you switch off(until you plug it back in)

How much would a specialist garage charge for reading codes? Good luck and keep us posted.

tlo said:

I have tried with a friends fault reader but it says the car has no codes stored

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If no codes are stored, then use the live data to see if any sensors are giving erroneous signals.

As soon as i got off the drive this morning back to square one in fact it stalled in the middle of the road and it took me four attempts to get it started and even then it would not rev
Thanks again lads sorry for being a complete newbie but how do i use the live data? I will be checking the maf sensor later I hope that it is it, that i can not remember touching it when I had fun refitting the air filter cover but we will see .One thing I did do when fitting the new crank case filter was disconnect the fuel line only one so I could refit the part more easily some one said even if there is a tiny air bubble the fuel rail, the pressure will not be high enough to fire the injectors. (min 300bar required). Could that be the cause ?

When you say disconnect the fuel line was that taking off the plastic 'L' piece from an injector? The fuel system is self priming so any air in it would bleed out almost immediately or at least soon after? Can't see that causing the issue UNLESS it hasn't been reconnected properly and I would imagine you would be able to see that somehow? Best check that if its a concern.

I have had similar problems when I did some work initially and I was 'pulled' between injectors and MAF. Still need to change the fuel filter for OEM and waiting for my daughter to try that MAF disconnected test. Without knowing what the service components are like...new 'consumable items' correctly installed, confirm the integrity of air intake and vacuum systems etc then you are wandering through the wilderness.....try the MAF test and have a look on youtube to see how to read 'live data' you may find a clear direction in which to go....good luck..

I took the maf filter connection off it did run a little better not that much for me to say that's the prob, it was one of the "T" peace's that are held in by a little clip that I removed to get the filter in now it will not fire up it will turn over and sometimes run badly for a few seconds then once every say 10 times it will fire up and tick over still with the light on . I am starting to think it is a fuel prob when I changed the filter there are what look like an extra earth spade and a three pin connector just hanging there doing nothing ????? I did also find this
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-not-starting-engine-malfunction-light.217702/

Live data will tell you things like manifold pressure, fuel rail pressure, low pressure fuel pump pressure, mas air flow and so on. Any readings that aren't what they should be, will point you in the right direction.

To me, you symptoms sound like the rail sensor wiring is corroded.

tlo said:

I took the maf filter connection off it did run a little better not that much for me to say that's the prob, it was one of the "T" peace's that are held in by a little clip that I removed to get the filter in now it will not fire up it will turn over and sometimes run badly for a few seconds then once every say 10 times it will fire up and tick over still with the light on . I am starting to think it is a fuel prob when I changed the filter there are what look like an extra earth spade and a three pin connector just hanging there doing nothing ????? I did also find this
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-not-starting-engine-malfunction-light.217702/

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Sorry for the 'bone' question but when you disconnected the MAF did you take it for a drive with regards 'running slightly' better? Also, have you reconnected it correctly(checked the connector) etc as this will cause no start on that engine IIRC? maybe the MAP will allow it to start in it's absense.

Nodge has affair point with regard the fuel sensor etc as if you were 'working in that area' you may have dislodged/'molested' the harness connectors at where it connects to the sensor at the fuel rail...If it's corroded then that may be the issue...How many miles has the car done since you fitted the fuel filter? Is it an OEM/branded one like Delphi/Bosch etc...I think you mentioned 'main dealer parts' just trying to sort through possible causes....Also, did you fit the filter in the correct way??? Worth checking as it's easily done....Maybe the fact that it runs 'a little' may discount that??

Nodge....You know anyone near Nottingham with a decent code reader and knowledge of what to look for?? I'm in Spain ATM... :-S

When I disconnected the maf I didn't take it for a drive it sounded lumpy on start up but then ticked over so I was a bit wary to take it any were, this was with all the covers off I might add should they have all been put back on then started the engine? I know these are rearly stupid questions but I only know the basics but am doing my best .I made sure the filter was fitted the right way so you can see the words "out" at the front of the filter housing ,the filter came from a link on here and the probs started before I fitted it so I has gone no were sense I fitted it .As for the electrics I did have to remove the three little torx bolts and move the wires out of the way to fit the crank case filter I also did remove the maf sensor to clean it but the torx bit I was using broke (didn't have the right one) so replaced it wit two screws but it doesent feel air tight if it does need to be

Okay cool on the fuel filter etc. think the MAF sensor 'test' involves a drive out and about, performance, especially at lower revs should have a noticeable improvement but 'tail off' at higher speeds. If thats the case then suspect a MAF 'out of spec'. Most on here discount cleaning a MAF (Nodge too I think?) but nothing ventured nothing gained in my book. Bosch MAF's have a habit of failing over time. They are not cheap to replace but again recommendations on here are to pay for a Bosch as the fleabay one's don't live up to expectations. Just be aware that usually you only need to buy the sensor and not the housing.

Okay, you say that the MAF 'doesn't feel airtight'. As it's part of the inlet system it must be free from leaks(however small) so if it's not tight then the airflow over the sensor will be disrupted to a degree and that is not a good thing. Any unmetered air will cause poor running and if you already have an issue with running make it worse. Really need to get the correct torx bit/adapter/tool and refit those torx screws properly. That may account for the poorer running after you did the other work?

You mention removing the injection harness(as in unscrew it) when fitting the PCV. Thats okay but any movement can cause the harness to move within the connector at the sensor. Best check the connector by removing from sensor and cleaning the connections with electrical contact cleaner(both sides) and reconnect. Reading on here corrosion can take hold in the harness and cause all sorts of running issues. This is just belt and braces stuff that doesn't cost anything other than a bit of time. Maybe that will help?

Thank you again I only moved the maf last night but will try and sort the bolts out today and have a look at the wiring . While waiting for a lift to get the torx set I have noticed oil seeping from around the oil filter were it screws on I hope (please) this just needs a new rubber o ring .When I changed the oil I made sure no more that 6.8L of oil went in and checked the dip stick .I have read on here some one would only put 5.5 l in so if I have to much oil in could that cause the probs I have ? I know its clutching at straws but it is just a thought

Update mk2 I removed all the bits including the air intake manifold just to make sure I had not caught anything ,as I was putting it all back together I noticed a sensor on the left hand side of the manifold took that out ,it looked liked there was a little ball in there a bit like a pressure switch if you see what I mean (turns out it was blocked) a bit of carb cleaner later it was clear and so far so good . Please don't tell me that sensor has nothing to do with the bad running so I hope I have sorted it

It has nothing to do with the bad running.....

Only joking hope it's sorted.

My daughter went out in her TD4 today, running really badly, lots of black smoke on acceleration (vacuum leak?) but she had the grand kids with her and is a bit worried about disconnecting the MAF and going for a 'blast' with them so still none the wiser. Running very poorly, chugging etc. Until her ex boyfriend takes the kids she can't really do anything wi them so it will be down to me to do all that stuff I guess? Can't wait....

MollyNomad said:

It has nothing to do with the bad running.....

Only joking hope it's sorted.

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so do I my friend so do I......... "Only joking" don't give up your day job when I first read that my hart sank lol
Any way thank to you and Nodge68 for all your help and advice I don't know were I would be without you and the forum
That is one lesson learnt if I clean anything out MAKE SURE it is dry and clean before I put it back I think it was a bit of gunk that got stuck in the sensor common sense really
Two other questions what is that sensor and when I changed the egr valve not only was there gunk in the manifold but also in the inlet ports of the engine will that get burnt off in time ?
Best of luck with your daughters car my son has the 1.8 version a year older than mine its only a matter of time

If it may have been the MAP sensor you cleaned? Trying to remember. Was it connected with a single bolt and positioned underneath?? The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor is sometimes forgotten about. My inlet, like everyone elses was(still is really) badly clogged but I rememoved the MAP sensor and cleaned as best I could. The inlet port on the engine, beyond where the orange gaskets seals is also pretty gunked up. Unfortunately I doubt they would clean up any as they are neither in the combustion chamber/cycle nor is there any mixing of fuel pre combustion. Modern direct injection petrol cars now suffer from the same issue. Only a strip down and clean would sort that out, although I am not fully ofay with Landy stuff/TD4. That would be a major undertaking. Other, more knowledgable members on here would be able to confirm or counter that.

The TD4 has both MAF and MAP sensors sending info to the vehicles ECU/PCM, if one goes the vehicle can appear to run okay but thats down to the ECU/PCM setting/trimming the fuel and ultimately 'kidding istelf' (and the driver) that all is well...Some earlier engines only had one or the other (MAP or MAF) and if it 'went 'tits up' there was no doubt that something was wrong. Mentioned this before that each time I have done someting to the car it performs much better at higher speeds but low end stuff its 'dying'. I can see why so many people 'rubbish' Freelanders as if you were just a normal 'bod' who only puts fuel in a car and drives it and nothing else you would be stuffed. Forums like these and many youtube(although not all) channels have some great advice and it's where most get their info or at least a direction of where to go in their investigations....in the 'olden' days it was a 'Haynes' manual and very little else.....

If your son does his own maintenance and checks his coolant and levels at least once a week I don't see why he should have any issues unless the car has been neglected in the past. Regular 'titivation' and fettling is what cars love but that needs to be on the mechanical side and not just the addition of furry dice and a Pine Fresh airfreshner....My sister had a K series Rover (213 I think?)It was immaculate, very low miles and what would be considered a Full Service History and also maintained at home be her ex father in law......when she got her hands on it it lasted 4 years. Two cyclinder head rebuilds was topped off 3 weeks later by her 'checking the coolant' but forgetting to replace the coolant cap.....Third time unlucky!!