This type is probably the easiest one to fit. Don't be surprised if you get an odd quacking noise for a second or two after you turn off the engine.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-TD4-EGR-BYPASS-STAINLESS-STEEL-/131281462114?fits=Model:Freelander&hash=item1e90fc2362:g:c8wAAMXQC-tS~UOD

I am afraid the EGR by pass above will not fit the FL 2 it is for a FL1 the OP will need to look for this one below.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111585376243?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Just discovered this mod and thread, looks a no-brainer to me. Which kit is better - EGR Delete or the Magic Parts? Much in it? Cheers in advance for any advice (y)
 
considering this topic is nearly 10 years old I think Ming should amend his opening statement in post 1 lol. At this stage the first thing to do is check if the car already has one fitted or not. I stupidly bought one without checking and it did indeed already have one. I just assumed I'd need one and had no idea these mods would be so popular that the chances of buying a used car with the EGR mod done already would be pretty high... especially on older vehicles. Anyway, that's my story.
 
considering this topic is nearly 10 years old I think Ming should amend his opening statement in post 1 lol. At this stage the first thing to do is check if the car already has one fitted or not. I stupidly bought one without checking and it did indeed already have one. I just assumed I'd need one and had no idea these mods would be so popular that the chances of buying a used car with the EGR mod done already would be pretty high... especially on older vehicles. Anyway, that's my story.

Had exactly the same thought over brekkie this morning. Fancy selling your unwanted kit? :D
 
I fitted mine yesterday along with the air filter, turbo filter and the updated bmw crank case filter there are two orange lights on my dash board the left I assume is the engine management but the other on the right with the exclamation make in it I have now idea . At first this would not go out so I took it for a spin and it went off so I thought the car was getting used to the egr mod but today the light started to flicker any idea what it for and why it came on ?
 
I'd refit the original EGR valve ad see if this is causing the problem, can't se the other mods would cause the fault unless they've been fitted incorrectly however unlikely that seems.
 
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The only thing I can think of is my landy is learning to live with new mod ? I am not sure if it does that, one thing I have noticed is that my new egr has a pipe that I connect the vacuum pipe to instead of blanking it off . Lastly what is that other orange symbol for ?
 
My EGR mod only had a blank where the flexi rubber type vacuum hose fitted, would have thought yours was the same. Can't help re the other warning light as i no longer have the Freelander.
 

I bought the EGR Delete kit, tried fitting it but it seemed too wide (at the EGR pipe/Jubilee Clip) to fit so had to revert to a much cleaner but non functioning EGR valve.....I may have been 'Monging' it...I'm over 50, still fit as **** but when I go running can't remember why and where I am and usually end up back at the 'secure unit' on a drip........

Next time I'm on day release I will have another go.......

'YOU WON'T TAKE ME ALIVE, COPPER'!!!
 
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The only thing I can think of is my landy is learning to live with new mod ? I am not sure if it does that, one thing I have noticed is that my new egr has a pipe that I connect the vacuum pipe to instead of blanking it off . Lastly what is that other orange symbol for ?
There shouldn't be any warning lights after fitting the EGR bypass. You must have dislodged a connector or pipe while fitting it.
The thin pipe for the vac hose is just there to give you somewhere to put the hose. If it weren't there you'd have to block the hose some other way, having said that all three of the TD4's I've owned had a big hole in the hose where they rubbed through so I'm not sure how critical it is.
 
The right-angled hose that fits to your EGR valve might have split when you removed/refitted it. That would give you an Orange light, one with an engine motive. The engine wouldn't run so well either.
I recommend checking the hose. It was certainly disturbed so could be the fault. You may need to remove it to give it a good visual once-over.
 
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Just a quick update on this it is now idling so bad it is cutting out weather it be hot or cold I took it round the block and it pulls like a train but that second light keeps coming on .I have emailed a few places trying to find out what it is but no joy yet ,I will check the egr mod tomorrow and as advised put the old one on and see what happens . I did have a job getting the blanking part to seat properly should have done that first , if that is not seating right could that cause the bad idling ? it has to be something I have done not done it was running ok before
Thank you poprivet I have to admit the hoses are soft
 
Our TD4 has been chugging and running rough since I got home after buying it. Cleaned out the inlet manifold and the EGR (it's stuck open) and tried to fit a EGR blanking thing, did PCV 'upgrade' serviced it and car ran very well on the open road but 'chugging' got steadily worse. Filled with premium deisel and Comma Injector cleaner on way to airport and it realky started running very bad when we go to the drop off. Daughter took 3 hrs to get home, car subsequently stalled entering 30 mph zone. All symptoms seem to point to a MAF sensor out of spec, my daughter is goibg to disconnect it tomorrow to see if anything settles down at lower revs at least. If there is an improvement we may have the beginnings of a solution to our woes....MAY being the key word...plan to do a fuel filter change when home and if things not any better a leak back test....it's all go in Freelander...land!
 

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