just remember that you do not want any leaks at all in the vacuum system so whatever method you use be it a Willo mod or just blocking it remember it shares with the turbo vane actuator and a few more bits ,also make sure that filter [back lhs of engine,looking in] is changed regular as its very often forgotten. . . . .
 
willo said:
I think it was the Belgian "Ray" who covered this in the beginning (back in end 2005 or early 2006) and came up with the blocking of the vacuum pipe in the first place. Only after that came the duck part as it seemed none had heard that noise until I mentioned it, and only much later came the solution of blocking the 'incoming' pipe of the solenoid.:tea: Can't unfortunately remember who brought it up first but whoever it was a big "THANK YOU" to him from all.:5bgrouphug:
Click to expand...

How could you forget moi :).........

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/egr-valve-sounds-like-duck-81578-3.html
 
willo said:
So sorry. And be aware that it will not improve in the future, quite the contrary will happen.... My uncle Alzheimer peeping around the corner I'm afraid .....:D
Click to expand...

:eek: You have an uncle Alzheimer too! we must be related then Will :D:D
 
thanx 4 that ming but im not up on this subject so where are the turbo rubbers and how do i check the MAF sensor? cheers b/cat
 
Realist said:
See my post HERE the actual part I've put up pictures.

Have a read and make your own mind up.
Click to expand...

How much is the black one in your pics and what thickness is the base(and does it actually make any difference?) I've not bought one yet so was hoping you guys could make my mind up for me :D:D:D:D
 
The important thickness is the exhaust blank plate, if it is too thin it will eventually get burnt through making a right mess.
Some people have tried blanking this using a coin and found it to be burnt through in no time.
I cant think why the thickness of the mount plate really matters (the one with the 4 screw holes in), maybe someone else can add to this.
 
Pardon my utter ignorance and total stupidness but couldnt you take off the EGR and with a welding torch cut off the inner bit thus leaving a clear tube? Feel free to mock should it be a ridiculous idea!!!
 
hxsw said:
Pardon my utter ignorance and total stupidness but couldnt you take off the EGR and with a welding torch cut off the inner bit thus leaving a clear tube? Feel free to mock should it be a ridiculous idea!!!
Click to expand...
I take it you haven't taken it apart and had a look inside...
It is a part alloy extrusuion and part valve so if you cut it out you would have a big hole in the side of the unit which you will then need to weld up and then make a blanking plate to connect the exhaust onto.
Also, you will never be able to revert the process, I am a great beliver in "you can't put the **** back into the dog!" :D
 
No Mr K i havent taken it off yet, i bow to your superior knowledge and as they used to say on The Fast Show "I'll get my coat":eek:
 
That kind of 'modifying' has been done by a member before who cut out the valve and sealed his egr so not impossible but I would also prefer to have the original part unaltered 'just in case'. Probably never need to put it back once replaced but one never knows. You'll see a major improvement just from cleaning it out and making it permanently open by pegging off the vacuum pipe which activates it. Much more grunt low down and sorted out the stalling issue for me. :D
 
aye up every one just thought id let you know probs with crap running turned out to be the secondary fuel pump ;inner wing; and not the egr or turbo rubbers although cleaning the egr certainly hasnt hurt :
 
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