kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
i think its a dodgy height -senor or even 2 dodgy h-sensors. I have seen that before and people rule it out as the chance of two going at once is uncommon.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
I have replaced the right hand rear which is the one I was thinking it was as this corner was always low compared to the left. I am now thinking that it could have been the left one from the beginning as it doesn’t seem to respond to having its values changed. I am waiting for a new one to arrive on Tuesday. If this sensor was faulty could it create the rising issue when the car is off? What I might do tomorrow is to swap the pipes on the valve block LH to RH and RH to LH and see if this happens on the opposite side
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
Do not tamper too much, wait for the sensor to come. The more tampaering the more of a chance to double the problem. Wait for the sensor , fit it and recheck. I do not think it is much, i would think it is a couple of sensors that have thrown everything out. Wait for the sensor then take it from there mate.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
10-4 I will hang on until it arrives, at least at the moment the thing is driveable without flagging an error which is a bonus! I have some other things to do in the mean time, I have to change the right rear door lock/latch, not sure how tough that job will be!
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
Its straight forward as long as you take the old one out correctly , patience is the name of the game with P38s - and you need lots of it and money
Hope you get it sorted soon
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Reading it up in the workshop manual it appears I have to remove the window and dismantle the whole of the innards, front doors are way easier, have done them a couple of times. Seems like a lot of faff to get to the latch, hey, hoIts straight forward as long as you take the old one out correctly , patience is the name of the game with P38s - and you need lots of it and money
Hope you get it sorted soon
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
At least I can also replace the inner shedders of the doors, they have been ripped to shreds from many removals! I ordered a roll of closed cell foam and it arrived today, identical to the original material, along with tubes of polybutylene sealant.
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
I am sure you will get some advice from the gents on here, been a while since I helped my mate do his, i have been fortunate with mine on all the P38s i have had.
Some good help videos on Youtube if i remember correctly - worth a look
Not bad. Just be very gentle with the clips on the ends of the rods because you don't want them to snap.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
I assume that the workshop manual is correct in saying that I have to remove the guts of the door including the window motor and lifting mechanism then..?
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Fortunately i have some spare clips I bought a few years back
I don't remember touching the window mechanism. It is years ago though and I might be mixing up with the front. Take the door-card off and have a good look.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Probably the front as they are “fairly” accessible. I have looked at the insides and although I can see the latch I don’t think it will get through the bits and bobs. Seeing as I have had most of this car apart for various issues I can add it to the list. I can also replace the door shedders at the same time as they look as if they have been through many a barbed wire fence!
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Well, latch changed, not too bad a job I guess and it has sorted the interior and puddle lights not working with that door and I get a message on the message centre when the door is opened so all in all fairly successful. Only a handful of swear words were uttered, I can see why you need to take the whole thing out now! Even took pictures just in case! However, I was hoping this would also fix the issue I have with the EAS freeze when the doors or tailgate open. It still goes up or down except when the brake pedal is applied.
