i think its a dodgy height -senor or even 2 dodgy h-sensors. I have seen that before and people rule it out as the chance of two going at once is uncommon.
 
i think its a dodgy height -senor or even 2 dodgy h-sensors. I have seen that before and people rule it out as the chance of two going at once is uncommon.
I have replaced the right hand rear which is the one I was thinking it was as this corner was always low compared to the left. I am now thinking that it could have been the left one from the beginning as it doesn’t seem to respond to having its values changed. I am waiting for a new one to arrive on Tuesday. If this sensor was faulty could it create the rising issue when the car is off? What I might do tomorrow is to swap the pipes on the valve block LH to RH and RH to LH and see if this happens on the opposite side
 
I have replaced the right hand rear which is the one I was thinking it was as this corner was always low compared to the left. I am now thinking that it could have been the left one from the beginning as it doesn’t seem to respond to having its values changed. I am waiting for a new one to arrive on Tuesday. If this sensor was faulty could it create the rising issue when the car is off? What I might do tomorrow is to swap the pipes on the valve block LH to RH and RH to LH and see if this happens on the opposite side
Do not tamper too much, wait for the sensor to come. The more tampaering the more of a chance to double the problem. Wait for the sensor , fit it and recheck. I do not think it is much, i would think it is a couple of sensors that have thrown everything out. Wait for the sensor then take it from there mate.
 
Do not tamper too much, wait for the sensor to come. The more tampaering the more of a chance to double the problem. Wait for the sensor , fit it and recheck. I do not think it is much, i would think it is a coupe of sensors that have thrown everything out. Wait for the sensor then take it from there mate.
10-4 I will hang on until it arrives, at least at the moment the thing is driveable without flagging an error which is a bonus! I have some other things to do in the mean time, I have to change the right rear door lock/latch, not sure how tough that job will be!
 
10-4 I will hang on until it arrives, at least at the moment the thing is driveable without flagging an error which is a bonus! I have some other things to do in the mean time, I have to change the right rear door lock/latch, not sure how tough that job will be!
Its straight forward as long as you take the old one out correctly , patience is the name of the game with P38s - and you need lots of it and money :)
Hope you get it sorted soon
 
Its straight forward as long as you take the old one out correctly , patience is the name of the game with P38s - and you need lots of it and money :)
Hope you get it sorted soon
Reading it up in the workshop manual it appears I have to remove the window and dismantle the whole of the innards, front doors are way easier, have done them a couple of times. Seems like a lot of faff to get to the latch, hey, ho
 
At least I can also replace the inner shedders of the doors, they have been ripped to shreds from many removals! I ordered a roll of closed cell foam and it arrived today, identical to the original material, along with tubes of polybutylene sealant.
 
Reading it up in the workshop manual it appears I have to remove the window and dismantle the whole of the innards, front doors are way easier, have done them a couple of times. Seems like a lot of faff to get to the latch, hey, ho
I am sure you will get some advice from the gents on here, been a while since I helped my mate do his, i have been fortunate with mine on all the P38s i have had.
Some good help videos on Youtube if i remember correctly - worth a look
 
10-4 I will hang on until it arrives, at least at the moment the thing is driveable without flagging an error which is a bonus! I have some other things to do in the mean time, I have to change the right rear door lock/latch, not sure how tough that job will be!

Not bad. Just be very gentle with the clips on the ends of the rods because you don't want them to snap.
 
Not bad. Just be very gentle with the clips on the ends of the rods because you don't want them to snap.
I assume that the workshop manual is correct in saying that I have to remove the guts of the door including the window motor and lifting mechanism then..?
 
I assume that the workshop manual is correct in saying that I have to remove the guts of the door including the window motor and lifting mechanism then..?

I don't remember touching the window mechanism. It is years ago though and I might be mixing up with the front. Take the door-card off and have a good look.
 
I don't remember touching the window mechanism. It is years ago though and I might be mixing up with the front. Take the door-card off and have a good look.
Probably the front as they are “fairly” accessible. I have looked at the insides and although I can see the latch I don’t think it will get through the bits and bobs. Seeing as I have had most of this car apart for various issues I can add it to the list. I can also replace the door shedders at the same time as they look as if they have been through many a barbed wire fence!
 
Well, latch changed, not too bad a job I guess and it has sorted the interior and puddle lights not working with that door and I get a message on the message centre when the door is opened so all in all fairly successful. Only a handful of swear words were uttered, I can see why you need to take the whole thing out now! Even took pictures just in case! However, I was hoping this would also fix the issue I have with the EAS freeze when the doors or tailgate open. It still goes up or down except when the brake pedal is applied.
 

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