Probably cheaper to fix than buy the petrol to torch it.
Probably cheaper to fix than buy the petrol to torch it.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
When I save this it then faults out of range and it defaults again
All your values are in the range the ECU expects, so that's good.
Start with car at High mode. Then save that setting. Next lower to standard, and write that row. Repeat for Low & Access heights.
A guess, but ECU will might not accept writing rows when car is not at that particular height.
Start with car at High mode. Then save that setting. Next lower to standard, and write that row. Repeat for Low & Access heights.
A guess, but ECU will might not accept writing rows when car is not at that particular height.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
There’s a point I hadn’t thought about, I can’t remember if I selected the height or not! Something for tomorrow
Ta
Datatek
Well-Known Member
As I'm sure you know, 18650 designates the cell type, like AA is used to designate NiCads18,650 individual cells ?
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Well it was worth a try, dropped the bits until both readings were the same, no change in left hand height at all! Tried to go below the bit reading of the rh and got the out of range fault again! Getting ****ed off now……
Must have used 5 gallons of fuel trying these different things
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I leave the engine off (ignition on) and use a battery chargerWell it was worth a try, dropped the bits until both readings were the same, no change in left hand height at all! Tried to go below the bit reading of the rh and got the out of range fault again! Getting ****ed off now……
Must have used 5 gallons of fuel trying these different things
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
I always thought you had to do live adjustments with the engine!
I had some excitement for a few minutes, I had another attempt after the last out of range fault and managed to get both of the rears to within 10mm of each other and within the height specified. A shout of glee came out, However, turned off the software and unplugged etc and restarted the car straight back to the lean and the same measurements as previously mentioned. Glee over, now a lot of cuss words
I had some excitement for a few minutes, I had another attempt after the last out of range fault and managed to get both of the rears to within 10mm of each other and within the height specified. A shout of glee came out, However, turned off the software and unplugged etc and restarted the car straight back to the lean and the same measurements as previously mentioned. Glee over, now a lot of cuss words
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
A bit of an update here, I have stripped the EAS basically to its core bits and tried the alternate EAS ECU reassembled and no change. Well..... I looked at the big connector on the ECU which appeared to be clean, however, I thought it wouldn't hurt to get the old 1200 wet and dry out and rub it on the spades. Hmm, now leans to the other side and when in all heights the front sits much lower, a bit like a drag range rover I did notice white dust when I sanded the spades so obviously there was some corrosion scale on them although 'twasn't visible. I think I will now get my inter dental brushes with a bit of contact cleaner and do the socket portion of the big connector, this obviously must have a similar layer on it. I don't know, corrosion after 25 years, who would have expected it I had previously used contact cleaner on this plug but obviously the scale needed to be removed mechanically, hopefully when I retry to calibrate I may get some better results!
I did notice white dust when I sanded the spades so obviously there was some corrosion scale on them although 'twasn't visible. I think I will now get my inter dental brushes with a bit of contact cleaner and do the socket portion of the big connector, this obviously must have a similar layer on it. I don't know, corrosion after 25 years, who would have expected it I had previously used contact cleaner on this plug but obviously the scale needed to be removed mechanically, hopefully when I retry to calibrate I may get some better results!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Be careful with abrasives, the white dust may actually be the tin plating.A bit of an update here, I have stripped the EAS basically to its core bits and tried the alternate EAS ECU reassembled and no change. Well..... I looked at the big connector on the ECU which appeared to be clean, however, I thought it wouldn't hurt to get the old 1200 wet and dry out and rub it on the spades. Hmm, now leans to the other side and when in all heights the front sits much lower, a bit like a drag range rover
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
I had wondered about the coating but the tin plate is still there, it has however made a difference to the systemBe careful with abrasives, the white dust may actually be the tin plating.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Going in the right direction then
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
I hope so Keith, this is doing my head in, such a simple system causing so much hassle!Going in the right direction then
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Any idea why when switched off the left rear rises, only occurs at standard height. I have tried 2 good valve blocks and 2 good ecu’s. With the aforementioned issues would a duff sensor create this problem?
Self-levelling can only drop the car. Does it still rise if you remove the timer-relay when parked ?
Mine rises ate the back when parked about 50-60% of the time, and I have an extra relay to disable self-levelling. My theory is tank air leaking past the corner valves because the plunger rubber has hardened with age. When tank is full & ECU switched off, there is 130psi in the valve block gallery, but typically only 60-psi in the air bags, so plenty of pressure to weep past those little valve tips. Same thing happens with two different valve blocks.
It improved with some replacement solenoid valves, but still does it, because the replacements are younger, but not 100% new !!
Mine rises ate the back when parked about 50-60% of the time, and I have an extra relay to disable self-levelling. My theory is tank air leaking past the corner valves because the plunger rubber has hardened with age. When tank is full & ECU switched off, there is 130psi in the valve block gallery, but typically only 60-psi in the air bags, so plenty of pressure to weep past those little valve tips. Same thing happens with two different valve blocks.
It improved with some replacement solenoid valves, but still does it, because the replacements are younger, but not 100% new !!
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Yep, still rises with timer out, that’s how I noticed it. Have been trying to track down the issue with the lean and after chewing it over with Keith I have been trying different bits and bobs. I have renewed all of the solenoid valve ends with Viton tips and have replaced the NRVs with new ones. I have done this with both valve blocks I am working with and the same issue remains with either!
Springs gone weak ?
Do these numbers make sense, or have I got calculations wrong ? If correct, there's 287g minus 165g of force on the corner valve springs, so they need to hold at least 122g force back. ?
My Excel:
Web Calculator
https://www.sensorsone.com/pressure-and-area-to-force-calculator/
Do these numbers make sense, or have I got calculations wrong ? If correct, there's 287g minus 165g of force on the corner valve springs, so they need to hold at least 122g force back. ?
My Excel:
Web Calculator
https://www.sensorsone.com/pressure-and-area-to-force-calculator/
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cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Springs all good
