jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
wheel off and hit it with large punch and large hammer
Andy Land
Well-Known Member
Or do what I did and cut very carefully in a vertical line with an angle grinder. Go very slowly when you get to the end as you don't want to damage the splines. That's the only way I could get mine off after having no luck at all with any other method I tried.
Good luck
Good luck
I tried changing the ball joint but couldn't get the metal top piece out, also the rubber cover won't stay in place because the arm has been abused in the past.
Is the rubber an mot fail?
Andy Land
Well-Known Member
I believe it is, like a track rod end boot is a fail but not 100% sure. Mine had perished so I changed it before the MOT.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
i use a half shaft as punch and large lump hammer ,but you could cut yours off since your replacing it
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
Use a "thin" cutting disc on your angle grinder and cut almost all the way through before splitting with a cold chisel. Just be careful not to damage the splines or get things too hot or you could fry the seals in the steering box. Likewise dont be tempted to warm things up with a torch or you will melt the steering box output shaft seal.
I dont like belting them with a hammer as it can damage the steering box output shaft bearing.
I dont like belting them with a hammer as it can damage the steering box output shaft bearing.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
never seen knocking them off damage bearing or shaft
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
I know of one that leaked constantly after being malleted. No obvious damage but it never did seal again. A second box that started leaking after an arm change showed signs of lateral movement in the output shaft which may have been down to the beating it got before the arm gave up and dropped off. Cant be sure but I dont like the hammer method so I dont use it.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
fair enough ,ive stripped built quite a few ,in a recondtioners ,bearings occasionally break up but we found were already from the rotational marks on the shaft ,but vast majority showed no untoward signs ,most of the time a good few whacks were needed with puller on it but to generally agree
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
Just shows you what a lottery the MOT test can be.
discomania
Well-Known Member
Good you got your MOT sorted, I would suggest you do get it fixed though, it's a critical part.
I agree with shifty, don't hit them, the bearing is not designed to take that sort of hard shock, shaft and bearing may not looked damaged that that's not to say you haven't just knocked 10000miles of it's life. The bearing in normal operation doesn't have to endure large laternal forces, it's design will suit radial forces.
Two hammers and at the same time, strike the arm either side of the shaft to shock it off, what you are actually doing is causing the metal around the shaft to go oval, opening it up enough that it will enventually just fall off the shaft.
It is critical that you hit both hammers of the SAME size at the same time, thus minimising the forces on the steering box.
I agree with shifty, don't hit them, the bearing is not designed to take that sort of hard shock, shaft and bearing may not looked damaged that that's not to say you haven't just knocked 10000miles of it's life. The bearing in normal operation doesn't have to endure large laternal forces, it's design will suit radial forces.
Two hammers and at the same time, strike the arm either side of the shaft to shock it off, what you are actually doing is causing the metal around the shaft to go oval, opening it up enough that it will enventually just fall off the shaft.
It is critical that you hit both hammers of the SAME size at the same time, thus minimising the forces on the steering box.
