discomark10
Well-Known Member
It should be fine, but the QT ones will be stronger and lighter
It should be fine, but the QT ones will be stronger and lighter
stu2985
New Member
If I had my time again would go HD steering arms and Jate rings for recovery
guards look the part but recovery eyes that some have built into them are crap and can bend easily on anything other than a straight recovery (Seen them bend)
Likewise guards can act like a ramp in mud or snow (again seen it happen) and can lift the front wheels off the ground. Also if being pulled backwards it can act like a scoop and make things worse especially if a rock sticking up (it happend to me at a p&P site)
still they look the part and every motor featured in a mag has one
guards look the part but recovery eyes that some have built into them are crap and can bend easily on anything other than a straight recovery (Seen them bend)
Likewise guards can act like a ramp in mud or snow (again seen it happen) and can lift the front wheels off the ground. Also if being pulled backwards it can act like a scoop and make things worse especially if a rock sticking up (it happend to me at a p&P site)
still they look the part and every motor featured in a mag has one
we was on about raduis arms mate...
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Discovery1 with what Castor is factory (+), (0), (-)?
Toyota Land Cruise 80 Series
Hi Peter,
The picture of the castor angles come from a Land Cruiser site and I am not sure how much difference the standard discovery arms create in castor when lifted. I am going to draw this up at work tomorrow so we can see.
I have spent the weekend off and on, looking around the Internet to see if anyone made castor correction plates similar to what you can get for Land Cruisers, Suzuki Jeeps and Toyota Hi-Lux. Unfortunately no one does anything.
The search did turn up something interesting in the form of this design.
It allows the axles to articulate a further 9 degrees which is a long way in the real world.
Another take of modified arms is on the NAS Discrotech
In this one you can also see the RHS box section to protect the steering track rod.
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
The are quite a few ideas going around in my head. I don't understand who it should be so difficult to produce an adjustable radius arm. I realise that the forces that are transferred through it are high and varied, but how many years have we,mas consumers had a basic choice of either 3 or 6 degrees radius arms.
My suspension is bang in the middle and needs perhaps 4.5 degrees castor. So either I have too little or too much. Don't mean to moan honestly it's just something that I took for granted and didn't think through at the beginning. Bummer...
My suspension is bang in the middle and needs perhaps 4.5 degrees castor. So either I have too little or too much. Don't mean to moan honestly it's just something that I took for granted and didn't think through at the beginning. Bummer...
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
^^^^^ you're just a show off.
You're right about the extra weight Sam and I do understand it. However I am determined to sort out a better alternative for 'Hornet 4x4 Racing' lol.
I am starting to work on a few items that I feel can be improved and would mean a better, simpler solution to expensive parts that don't fit properly.
Anyway see next post...........
You're right about the extra weight Sam and I do understand it. However I am determined to sort out a better alternative for 'Hornet 4x4 Racing' lol.
I am starting to work on a few items that I feel can be improved and would mean a better, simpler solution to expensive parts that don't fit properly.
Anyway see next post...........
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
So this morning I fitted the front and rear diff guards. I bought these from Challenge 4x4 who are good guys and very helpful.
Here are the guards, they are QT items and cost me £100 for the pair. The left one is the front guard and the right one isn't lol.
The extra plates are fitted over the diff where as for competition there are lugs that can be welded on.
So here's the front diff complete with prop and prop space (thanks Mr Noisy). First job is to jack up the vehicle and make safe. I am OK Otis as she is soo high, being a mans Disco and not a girls one, I can crawl underneath. It also helps that I have lost nearly two stone in the last three and a bit months training for a marathon. God I'm just soo good.
Now disconnect the steering damper and remove the vibration damper from the side of the diff housing.
Now you have a clean bottom you can turn your attention to the top. Undo two upper nuts and then slip on the bracket. Next screw the base of the guard to the underside of the diff housing and then bolt the top to the bracket. Connect up the steering damper and you are done. Simples
Looks good although I had no paint brushes so had to fit the guard without finishing the axle painting.this will need to come off again so I can make it look tidy.
I did the same to the back guard although you need to be careful that it doesn't foul the rear of the fuel tank. QT state the use of washers to pack it out is the recommended way to rectify this issue. They don't provide the said washers though. Why can't they just design it properly?
Here are the guards, they are QT items and cost me £100 for the pair. The left one is the front guard and the right one isn't lol.
The extra plates are fitted over the diff where as for competition there are lugs that can be welded on.
So here's the front diff complete with prop and prop space (thanks Mr Noisy). First job is to jack up the vehicle and make safe. I am OK Otis as she is soo high, being a mans Disco and not a girls one, I can crawl underneath. It also helps that I have lost nearly two stone in the last three and a bit months training for a marathon. God I'm just soo good.
Now disconnect the steering damper and remove the vibration damper from the side of the diff housing.
Now you have a clean bottom you can turn your attention to the top. Undo two upper nuts and then slip on the bracket. Next screw the base of the guard to the underside of the diff housing and then bolt the top to the bracket. Connect up the steering damper and you are done. Simples
Looks good although I had no paint brushes so had to fit the guard without finishing the axle painting.this will need to come off again so I can make it look tidy.
I did the same to the back guard although you need to be careful that it doesn't foul the rear of the fuel tank. QT state the use of washers to pack it out is the recommended way to rectify this issue. They don't provide the said washers though. Why can't they just design it properly?
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
The other night I fitted the snorkel too. Thanks to Matt Baxter for lending me his workshop. I did take some photos but then my iPhone let me down for the first time ever and I couldn't take anymore. But here's what I got.
The beginning
I the marked on the position of the hole. This was easy as a template was provided from Southdown.
As you can see I drilled lots of small holes around the edge. I didn't have a small Dremel or similar so this was the easiest method I could think of. I did try to use my laser eyes but they weren't working.
Next I used my super strength and punched the plate out.
Here's whe the phone went haywire. I finished the hole off by sanding and filing clean and smooth. Placed the flexible pipe on the stainless snorkel and fed this through the wing interior to the air box hole. Here it was connected to the air box using the adapters provided.
You have to be careful with the flexible pipe as I caught it a couple of times and ripped it. Luckily it was in an area that was being cut out anyway.
Finally I fitted the mount and fed the breathers up the outside of the tube and into the ram air scoop for a nice neat finish.
So here is the final result.
The beginning
I the marked on the position of the hole. This was easy as a template was provided from Southdown.
As you can see I drilled lots of small holes around the edge. I didn't have a small Dremel or similar so this was the easiest method I could think of. I did try to use my laser eyes but they weren't working.
Next I used my super strength and punched the plate out.
Here's whe the phone went haywire. I finished the hole off by sanding and filing clean and smooth. Placed the flexible pipe on the stainless snorkel and fed this through the wing interior to the air box hole. Here it was connected to the air box using the adapters provided.
You have to be careful with the flexible pipe as I caught it a couple of times and ripped it. Luckily it was in an area that was being cut out anyway.
Finally I fitted the mount and fed the breathers up the outside of the tube and into the ram air scoop for a nice neat finish.
So here is the final result.
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
So before you all start asking when will I get it dirty, she went out tonight. Videos and pictures will be posted soon.
Big thanks to GummyBear and MattBaxter for taking the pics and the video. W had a lot of fun and now the GreenHornet is more sort of browny coloured lol
Big thanks to GummyBear and MattBaxter for taking the pics and the video. W had a lot of fun and now the GreenHornet is more sort of browny coloured lol
Matt Baxter
Active Member
DiscoPol
Well-Known Member
Matt Baxter
Active Member
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Matt Baxter
Active Member
Its the link at the top,having to do this off the iPad as my laptop has **** itself
Ian water lane - Google Search
Ian water lane - Google Search
