fozt
Active Member
Thanks!
I plan on keeping it as a toy/project for the foreseeable future so I want to do it as best I can!
Foz
Thanks!
I plan on keeping it as a toy/project for the foreseeable future so I want to do it as best I can!
Foz
fozt
Active Member
Since I had replaced the rear crossmember, and it was all shiny and new I thought it would be best to clean up and paint the rear chassis.
I thought it would be quite straight forward to remove the tank guard, paint it all up let it dry and put it back together - how i was wrong.
This is what I started with -
The nuts on top of the (i have no idea what to call it) tank guard/bumper mount thing were welded on - brilliant. Also there wasn't enough room to get a grinder in there to grinder the welds down, so I had to cut them off completely.
This thing:
Once that was off there were 2 more bolts holding on the tank guard, that go through the side of the chassis - very difficult to undo due to mud being packed inside, and one of them snapped - so I had to cut that one off too.
I couldn't believe how much mud was sandwiched between the tank, chassis and the tank guard. It's like someone had sat it in muddy water up to the top of it's wheels and left it there for a while to let it seep in, and then drive out and let is bake solid in the sun. I didn't take any pictures of it, I just cleaned it.
But you can see some of the mud on the floor in this picture.
Tank guard off and cleaned, I need to remove all of the rust and paint it.
Painted the chassis
There was a nice dent in the tank too, so I assume that's why the previous owner bought a tank guard.
I spent some time removing the paint from the rear bumper, still not finished.
Foz
I thought it would be quite straight forward to remove the tank guard, paint it all up let it dry and put it back together - how i was wrong.
This is what I started with -
The nuts on top of the (i have no idea what to call it) tank guard/bumper mount thing were welded on - brilliant. Also there wasn't enough room to get a grinder in there to grinder the welds down, so I had to cut them off completely.
This thing:
Once that was off there were 2 more bolts holding on the tank guard, that go through the side of the chassis - very difficult to undo due to mud being packed inside, and one of them snapped - so I had to cut that one off too.
I couldn't believe how much mud was sandwiched between the tank, chassis and the tank guard. It's like someone had sat it in muddy water up to the top of it's wheels and left it there for a while to let it seep in, and then drive out and let is bake solid in the sun. I didn't take any pictures of it, I just cleaned it.
But you can see some of the mud on the floor in this picture.
Tank guard off and cleaned, I need to remove all of the rust and paint it.
Painted the chassis
There was a nice dent in the tank too, so I assume that's why the previous owner bought a tank guard.
I spent some time removing the paint from the rear bumper, still not finished.
Foz
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Tumor
Active Member
I was just reading through the start of this, you said on your first one you gave it a new clutch.
Why was this?
Coz mine is making truly horrible noises when you take off.... think it might be the clutch, but I'm not sure
If anyone else has tips please PM me because I don't like the sound of it and it needs to be dealt with straight away!
Why was this?
Coz mine is making truly horrible noises when you take off.... think it might be the clutch, but I'm not sure
If anyone else has tips please PM me because I don't like the sound of it and it needs to be dealt with straight away!
fozt
Active Member
What kind of noise?
A hole wore through my clutch fork so I just had no pedal, and whilst the gearbox was out I replaced the clutch too.
fozt
Active Member
Tumor
Active Member
So now people have notified me of the propshaft problem, I have searched 'Upgraded Land Rover Discovery 1 Propshaft', because you may as well upgrade it when it brakes! Anyway, I have found that there are at least two different types.
1. A Double Cardon Propshaft
&
2. A Wide Angle Propshaft.
(whenever I type in Cardon it comes up with spell check, Cardan. Cardon with an O is how Devon 4x4 have spelt it.)
What is the difference/pros and cons between them?
1. A Double Cardon Propshaft
&
2. A Wide Angle Propshaft.
(whenever I type in Cardon it comes up with spell check, Cardan. Cardon with an O is how Devon 4x4 have spelt it.)
What is the difference/pros and cons between them?
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fozt
Active Member
General wear usually, or if they aren't greased on a regular basis they will go quicker.
Ok i briefly looked into this, but i was in a rush and a budget at the time. The double cardan prop is better, but more expensive - I believe the D2 has a double cardan prop at the front. As the diff and transfer box aren't centered it causes more vibrations. But the double cardan prop reduces this. I went for a Britpart wide angle prop in the end, the only time the "wide angle" comes in to use is when you have a lot of articulation. If your vehicle is listed fitted a wide angle prop won't make the prop last any longer. I believe a double cardan will help though.
I understand you can get extreme double cardan propshaft etc and I assume these are for extreme articulation/off-roading but i never really looked into them.
Foz
fozt
Active Member
My understanding is that a double carden prop is superior on and off-road.
towsey956
Well-Known Member
Don't forget if it's only a prop joint (uj) then they only cost about £15 and about an hours labour if ya need to get a garage to do it!
Foz about has it sussed really, double cardan joints were on the front of a d2 for harmonic reasons and some people say they help a d1 when lifted. Wide angle props are expensive to some people and let's not forget that land rovers are known for prop joints, just cos a joints gone it doesn't have to mean the props knackered.
I would investigate further first mate and see wots wot
HTH
Towsey
Foz about has it sussed really, double cardan joints were on the front of a d2 for harmonic reasons and some people say they help a d1 when lifted. Wide angle props are expensive to some people and let's not forget that land rovers are known for prop joints, just cos a joints gone it doesn't have to mean the props knackered.
I would investigate further first mate and see wots wot
HTH
Towsey
fozt
Active Member
Good point, could just be the UJ - my prop was knackered through from the UJ being so bad.
New "wide angle" prop was about 60 quid.
Foz
Tumor
Active Member
I have now checked the prop, and I'm guessing there isn't supposed to be any play in it at all?
Because I can turn it with my hand from about 9 o'clock to about 11 o'clock.
The tail shaft has no play in it at all.
Is it best to replace it with an aftermarket item or can I get away with another from a scraped Disco?
Has the actual shaft got something wrong with it or is it the Uni Joints?
Because I can turn it with my hand from about 9 o'clock to about 11 o'clock.
The tail shaft has no play in it at all.
Is it best to replace it with an aftermarket item or can I get away with another from a scraped Disco?
Has the actual shaft got something wrong with it or is it the Uni Joints?
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Is it rotational play in the prop itself or the transmission train?
Rotational play is normal and yours doesn't sound excessive but there shouldn't be any play within the U/Js or slider at all.
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Also chock wheels and check the rear prop with the handbrake off because the brake at one end and the diff at the other holding the prop and U/Js twisted under tension can hide a sloppy joint.
