the main reason its squared is that there is only 1 place without travelling miles that bend pipe (scaffolding) and they are a freaking rip off!
so more fund derived, but it wouldnt be to hard to change at a later date, only a few pop rivets.
but i will see what it looks like after the sides go on.


Bent pipe would be alot stronger
 
what springs and dampers have you used? I've made a tray back disco and find the back end very stiff, I'm after some very soft springs
 
what springs and dampers have you used? I've made a tray back disco and find the back end very stiff, I'm after some very soft springs

ATM it has +2 teraferma kit, but once ive stopped spending money on the convirsion i will be upgrading the kit to +5/6 shocks and bits to suit. Im not sure what springs yet, ill have to look into that one... good point batman!:smash::smash::smash:
 
what springs and dampers have you used? I've made a tray back disco and find the back end very stiff, I'm after some very soft springs



Check out x springs they can weight them for you not cheap but puts the motor back to somwhere near factory setup articulation wise and maybe a bit more as at the moment all that hard work is wasted because it has worse flex than std. Many many a "challenge truck" has poor suspension very tall but not weighted at all correctly for its intended purpose.

LR spend lots of money making it all work in harmony if anyone thinks they can tray back a motor and make it fantastic on the cheap without some understanding on susupension and mechanical strenght of components are either very stupid or misguided.

Many a disco has been fecked with and money spent on all the wrong bits which make them totally worthless jimo.
 
Check out x springs
Sounds good

LR spend lots of money making it all work in harmony if anyone thinks they can tray back a motor and make it fantastic on the cheap without some understanding on susupension and mechanical strenght of components are either very stupid or misguided.

Many a disco has been fecked with and money spent on all the wrong bits which make them totally worthless jimo.

I agree with you there, its gona take a bit of cash and time to get it to where I want and need it to be, all fun and games though.
I plan to weigh the rear end once its all assembled, the front and subtract the front from total weigh, then the rear from remainder.
 
so, after having problems with the alarm going mad...it kept going off and triggering the door locks, ect... i decided to rip that dash out and sort the wiring out, i removed the alarm unit, re done an earth, repaired the bodge that some one done on the stereo wires and with a filling of petrol into the new tank.. managed to get it running for the first time in about a year!! sounds pretty good with the cherry bomb and the new fuel seems to work ok as well :D
 
Today we got the dash back in after cleaning up some of the loose wires and hammerite'ing the bulkhead, also got the head lining in with the normal accessories.. not far to go now!!! cant wait!!! :flame:
 
After doing a bit of research on springs as the back end will be allot lighter than before ive made a chart up using info ive found on the web.
it is based on std LR springs and unladen weights +driver & fuel.
Springcomparechart.jpg

My apologies if you go blind!
 
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You are doing a fantastic job there Mark, I have just started stripping my Commercial to turn her into something similar and was wanting to ask if there are any discrepancies with mot'ing a tray back? I don't have to take it for a special test or anything like that do I once I have her ready for the road again or have I got it all wrong and traybacking is purely for offroad use? keep up the good work Mark and I hope mine comes out anywhere near as good as yours :)
 
You are doing a fantastic job there Mark, I have just started stripping my Commercial to turn her into something similar and was wanting to ask if there are any discrepancies with mot'ing a tray back? I don't have to take it for a special test or anything like that do I once I have her ready for the road again or have I got it all wrong and traybacking is purely for offroad use? keep up the good work Mark and I hope mine comes out anywhere near as good as yours :)

Hey, thanks.. hope to have it done this month! Its taken a lot of blood sweat and tears.
As for the MOT, as long as it is in keeping to the usual MOT requirements about lights ect.. it will be fine. you only have to retest it if you drastically alter the chassis or wheel base. but you might need to notify the DVLA + insurers.
 
Cool, your pics have also given me ideas as to where to cut and I see the rear anti roll bar is now deleted, are you having yours road legal?
 
Cool, your pics have also given me ideas as to where to cut and I see the rear anti roll bar is now deleted, are you having yours road legal?

Yea, the anti roll bars reduce articulation, so they were off before :D.
Yea i plan to MOT it this month.
 
Now I know that there should be no problems with MOT then it is going ahead, the rear end of mine is that far gone I was going to break her up as I had bought a rear body crossmember and an inner rear wing which I am now stuck with if I Trayback her £300 wasted, my only concern realy was the huge gap between Tray and rear wheel, they have such a problem with tyres sticking out past car wings I thought this would be a big no-no for them :) bring on the Tray back, when I have fixed my drivers floor and sill that is :)
 
the rear end of mine is that far gone I was going to break her up as I had bought a rear body crossmember and an inner rear wing which I am now stuck with if I Trayback her £300 wasted
You can always resell the items i guess.

my only concern realy was the huge gap between Tray and rear wheel
well, you'l see from my pics I post in a few days... I have a solution to that ;)

when I have fixed my drivers floor and sill that is :)
I know the feeling, its the main reason for the trayback.. to get rid of the rotten bits and then I will only have repair the front bits.
 
I know I wont get top doller for the rear crossmenber and the rear inner wing and it would cost alot to send them down from Shetland but if you know anyone that might be interested let me know :), I am looking forward to seeing the pics of your way around the huge wheelarch gaps :) I saw a white one on Y/Tube, they called it a ute, but, the mud guards just didn't look right, not the way they had done them anyway, :)
 
my arch repaired, sealed, covered in hammerite paint, and then the underseal rubbery paint stuf (forget what is called)

2012-09-17-253.jpg


I know I wont get top doller for the rear crossmenber and the rear inner wing and it would cost alot to send them down from Shetland but if you know anyone that might be interested let me know :), I am looking forward to seeing the pics of your way around the huge wheelarch gaps :) I saw a white one on Y/Tube, they called it a ute, but, the mud guards just didn't look right, not the way they had done them anyway, :)

I think today, im finally in the position to put the sides on!
 
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