Nice work chap. Just recently did the front pads on mine. Luckily the pistons were ok and it was a 10 minute job each side.
 
I am glad I served as inspiration, that's very humbling as I don't feel I'm doing anything special so thank you.

As you know I am no stranger to working outside and it's the only thing that saps your will to carry on but you're doing the right thing and just keep at it. The time taken is starting to reap rewards as your work looks great.

With your sills, remember to make sure the doors line up courtly as you weld them in. Its amazing how much the body moves when the sills are cut out!

Whilst you have the front of the cabin stripped out, I would recommend spending an hour or so and relocating the relays in the footwell to higher ground. It will help later if you intend to wade in deep water and at the moment you have great access so it will be easier.

Keep on keeping on........
 
GreenHornet said:
With your sills, remember to make sure the doors line up courtly as you weld them in. Its amazing how much the body moves when the sills are cut out!

Whilst you have the front of the cabin stripped out, I would recommend spending an hour or so and relocating the relays in the footwell to higher ground. It will help later if you intend to wade in deep water and at the moment you have great access so it will be easier.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips, I was paranoid about the structure moving when I had the sill out but the is door is back on and fits fine. I have a bit of 20x20 box section now that I will tack across the rear door opening to stop anything shifting when I do the rear crossmember.

I had looked at the relays and was aiming to sort out the mess of wires there towards the end. The carpets are never going back in so I am considering possibly using some type of load liner spray coating (like that stuff used in the beds of pick up trucks) to protect the floor and try and get a bid of sound deadening back to the structure.
 
Hi MHM,

Still braving the sodding elements lol. I am very lucky to have a mate who lets me use his workshop now and again when it's free but any work that takes longer than a couple of hours is mainly done at home under the sky...

Rob,

I would like to use some kind of rubber paint in the Hornet. I have used a product many years ago whilst restoring an MGB Sebring Racer with my brother. However I couldn't remember what it was nor where I got it from but I would love to find it again as you could paint a sheet of glass with it and make rubber matts it was that good.
 
Some kind of rubber solution might be good, although might be a bit messy if you ever need to repair anything, and might cover any developing rust rather than let you see it so it can be sorted.

Really good thread, appreciate the picture detail, for someone fairly new to this stuff its good to have a good set of references, between you, GH and Mr Noisy I think i have enough to start hammering on mine to get it done!
 
GreenHornet said:
I would like to use some kind of rubber paint in the Hornet. I have used a product many years ago whilst restoring an MGB Sebring Racer with my brother. However I couldn't remember what it was nor where I got it from but I would love to find it again as you could paint a sheet of glass with it and make rubber matts it was that good.
Click to expand...

JoelC said:
Some kind of rubber solution might be good, although might be a bit messy if you ever need to repair anything, and might cover any developing rust rather than let you see it so it can be sorted.
Click to expand...

I did see a demo of this stuff LIZARDSKIN at Billing this year that looked interesting. Something I might consider when I am ready
 
JoelC said:
Really good thread, appreciate the picture detail, for someone fairly new to this stuff its good to have a good set of references, between you, GH and Mr Noisy I think i have enough to start hammering on mine to get it done!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words Joel, when I first started the rebuild I had owned the Disco for several years and although I had done just about all the mechanical type jobs including a top end rebuild of the V8 I had never welded before...

A combination of reading the posts on here along with advice on welding technique from MIG Welding - The DIY Guide convinced me to have a go.

I decided to document my progress to try and "give back" to the forum especially as no one seemed to have covered the fitting of things like the inner wing panels from YRM.
The step by step photos must have been okay as YRM saw them on here and contacted me to ask if they could use em for their website

I would say if you are planning on doing it the go for it. Post lots of pics and there is plenty of help and advice available on here

Rob
 
Very nice work fella! I am envious of the fact your going to have a nice solid disco at the end of it! I in some respects I took the lazy way out of fixing all that tin worm! Kudos.
 
I was talking to a friend the other day about removing the rear panels. He took his to a garage to have the rear arch done. They used a hot air gun to weaken the sealer. He was shocked at how quickly it all came away.
 
First panel took me an hour, second 30 mins.

Saves you so much more time that that its a no brainer.
 
Time for a bit of an update as I haven’t posted any progress pics recently , I have been getting bits done as and when I have time and the weather and my health allows.
Having refurbished the calipers I refitted them along with new extended braided flexi’s and new copper on the fronts
2013-05-01151912_zpsc33bd2ab.jpg

2013-05-01151918_zps5fbe25e3.jpg

2013-05-01154613_zpsf6398f43.jpg

Refurbished the back axle. All new Timken bearings in the hubs, new GKN UJ’s in the propshaft and changed 4 of the diff studs to longer ones as I had fitted a 24 spline diff when the last 10 spline went bang but 4 of the studs on the 10 spline are shorter so I hadn’t fitted nuts to them before hence it never sealed properly
A coat of red oxide and then the black Sigma paint followed by new brake lines left it looking like this. Just need to secure the brake pipes to the axle
2013-05-02133549_zpsbf3cc7f9.jpg


2013-05-02133535_zps1eee0aac.jpg


Now back to the metalwork……

Finished the passenger side sill, footwell and side panel. All seam sealed and coated in red oxide











Then it was onto the rear crossmember

Started by removing both rear quarter panels for easy access.

Then tacked a piece 15x15 box section across the opening before making any cuts



Then it was time to start cutting bits of ferric oxide enhanced crossmember out




All gone!


Spot welds drilled out along the way



Now the fun of fitting fresh metal back in

Used the LR bottle jack to get it into position


Then got busy with the welder followed by flattening the plug welds and a coat of zinc primer






Starting to feel a bit more solid now!

Still plenty to do but feeling happy with what I have done so far.
 
Quick Update
Having got the crossmember in and welded last week I needed to get it joined to the existing boot floor.
The YRM crossmenber comes with a joining piece so once I got it fitting properly

I drilled a load of holes

And fitted a row of Cleco pins to hold it in place while I plug welded


You can see all the holes ready for plug welding

Fully welded including holes from Clecos, then welds dressed back with flap wheel and zinc primer applied


Getting there
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Disocvery 2 inner wings
Replies
2
Views
223
Frazzle
F
StuRox
Disco 1 Interior Light door switch wiring
Replies
8
Views
392
StuRox
StuRox
L
Rear heated switch( panel land rover discovery 3)
Replies
5
Views
483
LR-hobbs
L
F
Clarke welder
Replies
1
Views
497
tilly2
T
G
Chassis Corrosion - Cause and long-term fix
Replies
18
Views
2K
MJI
MJI