dollydisco
New Member
Alright mate, I may be able to pop over on sunday! And also I never use viscous spanners, hammer and a sharp punch do the trick normaly, and if your good you don't damage the viscous nut 
Alright mate, I may be able to pop over on sunday! And also I never use viscous spanners, hammer and a sharp punch do the trick normaly, and if your good you don't damage the viscous nut
The viscous spanner size is the same as the gearbox drain plug (at least it is on mine - a 300TDi) so it made sense to buy the spanner for me. It wasn't too expensive from Paddock Spares.
sunday would be awesome as i have sooo much to doAlright mate, I may be able to pop over on sunday! And also I never use viscous spanners, hammer and a sharp punch do the trick normaly, and if your good you don't damage the viscous nut
i've the cutting and welding to do on the disco along with getting the injection pump off and i've got to put the coilovers on the pugot as i've got that show next weekend so if you could bring the cam locking kit back over and a trolly jack if you have one as my jack the seals have just gone and i only have a sizzir jack now and i doubt that'd lift the landythe nut is 32mm and paddoc wouldnt be able to get it out to me before sunday
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gR@HaM
Well-Known Member
gR@HaM
Well-Known Member
thanks L
It's a 32/36 blue handled made by laser if they still do 'em
bustersbus
Well-Known Member
gR@HaM
Well-Known Member
right YRM sent out the right packages as soon as i contacted them and i received them pretty quickly
Should hopefully have badger coming over today so the plan for today is;
Cut out the N/S inner arch and the holes at the bottom of the B-Pillar and the drivers side footwell.
Cut to size and weld in the new arch and the stainless patches.
Clear the rad, viscious fan and all that crap out of the way so that i can get the cam belt cover off and remove the injection pump
also at somepoint today i need to put the new coilovers onto the pug ready for FCS
Should hopefully have badger coming over today so the plan for today is;
Cut out the N/S inner arch and the holes at the bottom of the B-Pillar and the drivers side footwell.
Cut to size and weld in the new arch and the stainless patches.
Clear the rad, viscious fan and all that crap out of the way so that i can get the cam belt cover off and remove the injection pump
also at somepoint today i need to put the new coilovers onto the pug ready for FCS
so started this morn by cutting out the hole at the bottom of the B pillar
then my first attempt at welding in a long time
i know the welds are crappy but it's holding i need another patch there as i fould another hole as i was setting the landy on fire
then out for a nice lunch as tis my b-day tomorro so my sister came down today and took me out
Well got back from lunch and it poured down with rain so i was restriced to inside stuff so out came the rear seats and carpet and guess what i found......
More rust, didn't look too bad at first tho
but then i poked about a bit
Replacement floor time i thinks where is the best place to get the replacement floor that isn't direct from land rover? and i'm guessing i'll need the rear crossmember, also what is the best way to replace this, is there a guide round these parts with pictures?
Also when i first got the car i removed the rear outer door handle as it was fecked but i've left it a bit long and can't remember were all the rods go anyone have a picture of theirs? thanks
this looks like a good soloution but can i get it cheaper anywhere else??
then my first attempt at welding in a long time
i know the welds are crappy but it's holding
i need another patch there as i fould another hole as i was setting the landy on firethen out for a nice lunch as tis my b-day tomorro so my sister came down today and took me out
Well got back from lunch and it poured down with rain so i was restriced to inside stuff so out came the rear seats and carpet and guess what i found......
More rust, didn't look too bad at first tho
but then i poked about a bit
Replacement floor time i thinks
where is the best place to get the replacement floor that isn't direct from land rover? and i'm guessing i'll need the rear crossmember, also what is the best way to replace this, is there a guide round these parts with pictures?Also when i first got the car i removed the rear outer door handle as it was fecked but i've left it a bit long and can't remember were all the rods go
anyone have a picture of theirs? thanksthis looks like a good soloution but can i get it cheaper anywhere else??
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gasless welder welding stainlessLooks like you need to turn the gas up on your welder mate
boot floor costs about 50squid and are easy to get hold of..
Looks like you need to ditch the gasless and use a proper gas MIG welder then. Why use stainless?
Yeah best to get onto proper gas ASAP, the welds are better quality etc etc. Arguably its not critical on something like a boot floor which isn't structural, but on other areas of the car (eg near seat belt mounts on sills), or on other cars which are unibody construction, its more important to get the welding strong.
well i would now but the argon/co2 mix that halfraws sell is so expensive for something that lasts such a short time
unless you know a cheaper place to get them from?Its an interesting (and valid!) question. I don't know how to get the costs of gas welding down, and I'd love to have a cheaper gas supply! I am on a BOC contract with a 19kg (I think its their X size) bottle of Argoshield Lite. When I signed up, the costs were reasonable/marginal, but they've gone up and up etc.
The nearest I got to it was a guy claiming to have a very well discounted deal with BOC, however notice that further details were never forthcoming.....
Difflock :: View topic - Can't believe how much welding gas is these days!
If you're still on the little disposable bottles, then moving up to a 19kg bottle will give you savings, if you do enough welding to justify it. I have 4x old cars (3 of them are off the road with various things needing doing etc, 2 of them are long term restoration projects) so I weld quite often.
The nearest I got to it was a guy claiming to have a very well discounted deal with BOC, however notice that further details were never forthcoming.....
Difflock :: View topic - Can't believe how much welding gas is these days!
If you're still on the little disposable bottles, then moving up to a 19kg bottle will give you savings, if you do enough welding to justify it. I have 4x old cars (3 of them are off the road with various things needing doing etc, 2 of them are long term restoration projects) so I weld quite often.
