Email recived thankyou datatec
Did the full 60mile round trip faultless except on the last 2 miles theres a long steep hill and yup she overheated
Seems the ac fans helped alot
Gona have another look tomorrow see if the radiators flowing ok
 
Email recived thankyou datatec
Did the full 60mile round trip faultless except on the last 2 miles theres a long steep hill and yup she overheated
Seems the ac fans helped alot
Gona have another look tomorrow see if the radiators flowing ok
Well, that eliminates the viscous fan, so you are down to a sticking Stat, blocked/defective RAD or a dodgy water pump.
You need to remove the RAD, they silt up because of the stupid flow arrangement, flush it out and check that the baffle in the header is in place.
 
Not checked the stat yet but would have thought its ok
1 the top of the rad gets hot
2 would have thought it would overheat long before 60miles
Also the facts that the top of the rad gets hot would sugest the pump is ok too?
so looking at the rad or a head problem?
 
Not checked the stat yet but would have thought its ok
1 the top of the rad gets hot
2 would have thought it would overheat long before 60miles
Also the facts that the top of the rad gets hot would sugest the pump is ok too?
so looking at the rad or a head problem?

No, does the RAD get hot at the bottom? If there is no flow the RAD will not heat all over as the flow and return are at the top, so it needs the pump to circulate.
 
Not checked the stat yet but would have thought its ok
1 the top of the rad gets hot
2 would have thought it would overheat long before 60miles
Also the facts that the top of the rad gets hot would sugest the pump is ok too?
so looking at the rad or a head problem?

Coolant goes down R/H side (From front of car) and up L/H side. If top of rad is hot all along it and bottom is cold you have a baffle problem. There is a baffle mid point in top of rad that prevents coolant from flowing across rad and forces it down one side and back up other. If that baffle has failed coolant just flows across top of rad and does not go through it. Hence no blast cooling.
 
Coolant goes down R/H side (From front of car) and up L/H side. If top of rad is hot all along it and bottom is cold you have a baffle problem. There is a baffle mid point in top of rad that prevents coolant from flowing across rad and forces it down one side and back up other. If that baffle has failed coolant just flows across top of rad and does not go through it. Hence no blast cooling.
it is hot all the way across the top but havent checked the bottom yet
gona take all the coweling off tomorrow and have a propper look at it
 
My god take the rad out clean it check water pump fins/ change stat while your in there put it back if its still overheating change your rad if it feels really heavy it simple really and don't cost much then you will have. Sweet motor get a sniff test to be sure !
 
think its the radiator as its alot warmer accross the top than it is at the bottom, so just been looking at radiators on flebay and theres alot with brass connectors at the bottom what they for?
pretty sure mine hasent got them
 
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think its the radiator as its alot warmer accross the top than it is at the bottom, so just been looking at radiators on flebay and theres alot with brass connectors at the bottom what they for?
pretty sure mine hasent got them
The ones with the holes are for manuel versions ( the gearbox oil cooler )you can use it on an auto , you don't use the oil cooler part as you have your own as its an auto it has its own seperate oil cooler ...
 
think its the radiator as its alot warmer accross the top than it is at the bottom, so just been looking at radiators on flebay and theres alot with brass connectors at the bottom what they for?
pretty sure mine hasent got them
Also check the water pump, sometimes the plastic impeller slips on the shaft causing reduced circulation.
 
The ones with the holes are for manuel versions ( the gearbox oil cooler )you can use it on an auto , you don't use the oil cooler part as you have your own as its an auto it has its own seperate oil cooler ...

Mmm maybe kill two birds with one stone
Could i use the oil cooler part to remove the oil cooler behind the fog light so i could fit the fog lights? Or is there a reson why it was done the way is was?
 
Mmm maybe kill two birds with one stone
Could i use the oil cooler part to remove the oil cooler behind the fog light so i could fit the fog lights? Or is there a reson why it was done the way is was?
well you would need different pipe work and brackets and the fact that you don't have a r380 manuel box won't help its a no no,stick with what you got get that water pump out for a check change your stat more than likely you have and old half blocked rad change these and you will have a trouble free cool running motor get it done and enjoy it ..
 
well you would need different pipe work and brackets and the fact that you don't have a r380 manuel box won't help its a no no,stick with what you got get that water pump out for a check change your stat more than likely you have and old half blocked rad change these and you will have a trouble free cool running motor get it done and enjoy it ..

I am
Im gona just get a new rad cos loads of the fins are damaged and its not heating evenly whilst its out ill check the pump and change the stat
Can you reuse the pump gasket or should i get a new one
 
I am
Im gona just get a new rad cos loads of the fins are damaged and its not heating evenly whilst its out ill check the pump and change the stat
Can you reuse the pump gasket or should i get a new one

Both the stat and pump use an oring type seal but a new oring and you can't go wrong, but in most cases you can reuse the oring with a bit if vasalene helps it slip into place
 
Got board today and decided to have a look
Took the rad out and flushed it, there wasent any ****e in it and it seem to flow clear couldent get the pump off cos couldent find a spanner to fit the fans shaft! what size is it?
After i rebuilt it all i ran it up to temp and found the bottom of the rad is nowere near as hot as the top
(does that sugest the baffle or pump?)
Because i ran the engine with one of the rad pipes off and it pumps water out (but its not under presure! I was expecting it to emptey the system in a few seconds?) but didnt rev it and only ran it for about 5seconds
So me needs to get to halfords get a spanner to fit and try again would think it will be a dam sight easyer too with the fan off
 
Got board today and decided to have a look
Took the rad out and flushed it, there wasent any ****e in it and it seem to flow clear couldent get the pump off cos couldent find a spanner to fit the fans shaft! what size is it?
After i rebuilt it all i ran it up to temp and found the bottom of the rad is nowere near as hot as the top
(does that sugest the baffle or pump?)
Because i ran the engine with one of the rad pipes off and it pumps water out (but its not under presure! I was expecting it to emptey the system in a few seconds?) but didnt rev it and only ran it for about 5seconds
So me needs to get to halfords get a spanner to fit and try again would think it will be a dam sight easyer too with the fan off

How heavy did the rad feel I tell you this when new they are as light as a feather well almost not that heavy I'm sure fan size is 32 Halfords do sell them get the double ended one to be sure its called a vicious spanner by the way , the fan removed would help when removing w/pump:)
Don't forget turn clockwise to undo it and a small bar inbetween the fan bolts to hold it secure:)
 
Wasnt hevey at all, hose piped it for a good 10mins and water ran clear

I couldn't get my rad out without removing the fan .

Did you remove the bung at the bottom of the rad or just fill it up and turn it upside down now that you have cleaned it look at pump and check stat in hot water or get a new one well both infact as your going in there , well I would I don't do half Measures.
 

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