nobody said it's the MAIN source though
i really respect that but IMO it might not be the best approach for the
Td5 engine management though... is the following report clear enough for you? (the fact that it's not made under the hood is irrelevant for the engine management cos the reading of the MAP/IAT is not involved in the experiment
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1DKgBxqE0JEME5wQ1pIc1N5dU0/edit?pli=1
I asked you to provide a link to an experiment done on a test bed and you did that. I see what they say but I am still struggling with this one. I own two of the exact same Cummins engines they use (in tractors) both of which are putting out over 900nm at full torque and given that changing gear and not wanting boost to drop off or requiring boost from a standing start isn't an issue (as the tractors have power shift and they tend to do constant pulling when working) I wouldn't see the point in fitting one. I could just get a remap and add miles more power rather than going to bother of insulating the turbos for something that I doubt would make much difference and may cause additional issues.
As bankz said above we are after all dealing with old landrovers here and to be honest I don't see what difference it would really make to one of them. These things take that long to change gear that you are going to struggle to maintain boost between gear changes no matter what you do and in anycase if your driving your landy you need your power when towing and you come to a hill or when you are off-roading steep stuff so in most cases all you want is the engine to do hold on, you are not bothered about turbos spooling up quicker when you change gear. I don't know about you but I'm not into flying away from the lights in my Landrover, mainly because I've seen glaciers accelerate faster than it. If there are benefits from reducing engine bay temps through insulating the turbo/manifold/exhaust and therefore intake temps it is not as if there is loads of engine insulation that keeps the heat in the engine bay, my Landrover spends most of its time howking through fields with water and mud splashing all over the engine. Normally the heater has just about warmed up by the time I arrive where I was heading.
As I said before I know of people insulating turbos, manifolds, exhausts before on highly tuned RS's, skylines, scooby's and evo's producing big HP in order to keep engine bay temps down and help intake temps but these are completely different kinds of things to an old landy doing 180hp (with major tuning) and only revving to a few thousand revs, most of us have way less power than that and no intention of pushing things that far. Also as bankz said, if there is a risk in warping the manifold then I certainly wouldn't do it as it is not worth the risk. Also having to wait longer in order to let the heat out to help prevent turbo bearing damage is also a pain. I tend to cruise at the end of journeys and will let the engine sit at idle for a bit but I can't be arsed waiting a few minutes. You may find that you get a similar result to what to what you say you are getting from giving your exhaust manifold a good port and polish to maximise gas flow through it, but then again it is an old landy.
I stand by what I said earlier, it is not heat that drives a turbo but the kinetic energy released by the explosion of the fuel air mix in the cylinder. When something explodes the potential energy it contains (in our case in the diesel) is transformed into kinetic energy and some heat energy. The kinetic energy drives the particles involved in the explosion out from the centre and in our case the expansion and movement of particles (gas molecules) resulting in an increase in pressure push the piston (and spin the turbo when the exhaust valve opens, there is some pumping force as well by the piston being pushed up) and the heat energy created radiates out from the explosion heating the surroundings. The kinetic energy conserves the potential energy of the diesel and the heating of the surroundings is a non-conservative process. When the expanding gas flows through the turbo the turbo extracts work from the gas and this results in the temperature of the gas dropping. Now it may be according to the experiment you linked to that if you reduce the heat wastage you retain more kinetic energy in the explosion to spin the turbo faster but you have to remember that it is the kinetic energy doing that and not the the heat. Heat does not drive a turbo, kinetic energy does, they are two completely different things.