bankz5152 said:
I did include a link on how to test it with a voltmeter
Click to expand...
I know, wasn't aimed at you, was just a suggestion to the OP to run trough things systematically rather than just randomly replacing components.

I would start by taking all the boost pipes and intercooler off and visually inspecting and replacing any split/holed ones etc

Take off the red ecu plug and check that

Test the maf

Inspect and clean the egr

Check the air filter and replace if clogged.

Check/Replace fuel filter

IMO these things should have been done before a remap, remapping a substandard engine is a recipe for tears, and the remap company should have been told before.

A good fettle td5 should pull strongly and accelerate well anyway, the fact it didn't indicates something was wrong prior and that needs correcting before a remap imo
 
flat said:
I know, wasn't aimed at you, was just a suggestion to the OP to run trough things systematically rather than just randomly replacing components.

I would start by taking all the boost pipes and intercooler off and visually inspecting and replacing any split/holed ones etc

Take off the red ecu plug and check that

Test the maf

Inspect and clean the egr

Check the air filter and replace if clogged.

Check/Replace fuel filter

IMO these things should have been done before a remap, remapping a substandard engine is a recipe for tears, and the remap company should have been told before.

A good fettle td5 should pull strongly and accelerate well anyway, the fact it didn't indicates something was wrong prior and that needs correcting before a remap imo
Click to expand...

I agree. I cant say for certain what was up with my 90, though over its life ive replaced everything in my list and yours, now it pulls like a train.

Not too hard to pull all the boost hoses off either, I would take the intercooler out to check it. Set aside a day to inspect everything properly.
 
bankz5152 said:
I agree. I cant say for certain what was up with my 90, though over its life ive replaced everything in my list and yours, now it pulls like a train.

Not too hard to pull all the boost hoses off either, I would take the intercooler out to check it. Set aside a day to inspect everything properly.
Click to expand...
Yep because you may find its something simple like a split pipe, it oil in the plug rather than shelling out for a maf which might actually be okay.
 
Banks5152 - That would be great if you could find out the postage over the weekend. I do actually have a lot of family in Kent. Seven Oaks area. Was the intercooler one you took off your 90? how old is it if you don't mind me asking?. I looked through your thread of your work on your 90. brilliant work. I have a long list on upgrade I want to do to mine. Interior and exterior. I have already done LOADS since I bought it and learnt so much. I want to really modernise the 90 interior and exterior. I want a smooth running engine beyond 70mph (obviously). I really like the headlining you put in your 90. i have plans for the same in mine, as well as the full leather dash etc. sound proofing and carpeting throughout.

flat - I appreciate your comments. I understand you would may have gone about things differently, but I thought that a re-map may solve the issue. It is only now that I realise that there may be a small issue underlying. Had I known, I'd have found and solved the issue before the re-map. Clearly I am no expert when it comes to mechanics. However, every expert was a beginner once so as long as I solve the issues, happy days. I will do as you suggest and check the pipes first.

thanks
 
Jessy said:
Banks5152 - That would be great if you could find out the postage over the weekend. I do actually have a lot of family in Kent. Seven Oaks area. Was the intercooler one you took off your 90? how old is it if you don't mind me asking?. I looked through your thread of your work on your 90. brilliant work. I have a long list on upgrade I want to do to mine. Interior and exterior. I have already done LOADS since I bought it and learnt so much. I want to really modernise the 90 interior and exterior. I want a smooth running engine beyond 70mph (obviously). I really like the headlining you put in your 90. i have plans for the same in mine, as well as the full leather dash etc. sound proofing and carpeting throughout.

flat - I appreciate your comments. I understand you would may have gone about things differently, but I thought that a re-map may solve the issue. It is only now that I realise that there may be a small issue underlying. Had I known, I'd have found and solved the issue before the re-map. Clearly I am no expert when it comes to mechanics. However, every expert was a beginner once so as long as I solve the issues, happy days. I will do as you suggest and check the pipes first.

thanks
Click to expand...

Good to know! Sevenoaks is about 15/20mins from me, so if your ever there drop me a message. If im around ill plug in my Nanocom, gives a chunk of useful
info or just have a coffee n a chat!

Glad you like the thread! The alcantara was pretty cheap and quite easy to do, just got to take your time! Drop me a message ill send you a link for the material and the chaps ill be using for the 110.

Started a new thread for the 110, taking a similar approach but better really. Also started a DriveTribe (TD5Tribe) which ill update as well. (the Top Gear trios social media for cars)

The 90 is actually up for sale now. The intercooler was removed from an 04 110 with 94k on the clock. Overall it is intact but one corner mounting point has been cut off. Can send pics if need be, it will still mount and fit fine though...
 
Not too bad, Okay well I will look into prices for performance IC and then make a decision based on that!. Just a quick question. when I turned the wastage a few turns recently (advised by the tuning company) I noticed my fuel needle was literally moving towards the red constantly, it seemed to really have an effect on my fuel, so freaking out I turned it back to where it was after the tune. The man at the tuning place did say make a few turns.

Yeah thread looks great, I have now sat down today and made a long long list of what to do with mine and in what order. I looked through your 110 thread too, looks great. I had thought today (it might be come across strange but id like your view) I thought as I'm not exactly packed with cash. Why don't I put a ad on a crowdfunding website set a target and explain that i am trying to restore an old land back to good condition.

Shame you're selling your 90.
 
Cheers mate! Adjusting the wastegate adjusts the turbo boost pressure, it shouldnt have a drastic effect on fuel though...

Worth a try mate, not sure how successful itll be tho, took me about 3 years to get the 90 how I wanted it. Has to to pay for the 110! Cant afford to have two
 
Jessy said:
Hi there,

I'm new to the Forum.

I have a Defender 90 TD5 that I got Remapped last week. Great performance now. However, before the remap I had Issues getting past 60mph without the engine getting very loud and everything vibrating like crazy through the pedals etc. I was hoping that the Remap would solve this issue. Now I have had it mapped I am very pleased with the performance under 65mph. so smooth with a nice 'Hiss' to the engine. But if I am to accelerate beyond 60mph It has the same issue. I tried shortening the Wast-gate a few millimetres, it helped a little bit. but, not really. My radiator and ****ty intercooler are very old and basically leaking, bending and flaky as hell. I mention this because I feel like the engine isn't getting enough air when reaching higher speeds???? Im thinking of trying a new MAF also. PLEASE SOMEONE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION!!!!. Im stressed thinking about it. Thanks!.
Click to expand...

I still cant believe you have noticed issues like old intercooler leaking if you have the money to do a remap surely the boost leak should of been fixed first

as for adjusting waste gate lengths do you have a boost gauge installed ?

boost gauge install before messing around with the turbo adjustments

higher speeds means more engine load due to wind resistance meaning more boost ..and more boost means more heat ..not to sure if you know but a turbo works on heat... the more the heat means more expanded gasses to push the turbine resulting in more efficient turbo

as for the remap are your sure they have not just compensated for worn injectors
do you still have the EGR active ?
and stock exhaust ?
stock intercooler ? with leaks
 
Last edited:
ozzyboydeano - I know now in heinsight that it looks bad that I got it mapped with rad / IC issues. it was really just a shot in the dark at trying to resolve the lack of performance at high revs. Like i have said I am no expert but through reading through threads and researching I'm now leaning a lot more. And hopefully now with your help not he forum I will be able to make better decision going forward. Before I do anything else I will replace the rad and IC because frankly they need doing, obviously.

I do not have a boost gauge installed no. I was told by the man at the tuning company what to do and by how many mm to adjust it by. I told him about the Rad/IC also and he did say you aught to think about replacing both but said it should be fine up until you do.

how would i be able to tell if I have worn injectors?

EGR active still yes, stock exhaust and stock IC, which, is ****. :)
 
Jessy said:
ozzyboydeano - I know now in heinsight that it looks bad that I got it mapped with rad / IC issues. it was really just a shot in the dark at trying to resolve the lack of performance at high revs. Like i have said I am no expert but through reading through threads and researching I'm now leaning a lot more. And hopefully now with your help not he forum I will be able to make better decision going forward. Before I do anything else I will replace the rad and IC because frankly they need doing, obviously.

I do not have a boost gauge installed no. I was told by the man at the tuning company what to do and by how many mm to adjust it by. I told him about the Rad/IC also and he did say you aught to think about replacing both but said it should be fine up until you do.

how would i be able to tell if I have worn injectors?

EGR active still yes, stock exhaust and stock IC, which, is ****. :)
Click to expand...

For future reference you can get an EGR blank kit off ebay that comes with a boost gauge fitting, about £30 I think. Gives the most accurate reading with the least effort. Boost gauge about £30 too, easy to install just remove the TD5 clock, stick it in there.
 
Jessy said:
Banks5152 - That would be great if you could find out the postage over the weekend. I do actually have a lot of family in Kent. Seven Oaks area. Was the intercooler one you took off your 90? how old is it if you don't mind me asking?. I looked through your thread of your work on your 90. brilliant work. I have a long list on upgrade I want to do to mine. Interior and exterior. I have already done LOADS since I bought it and learnt so much. I want to really modernise the 90 interior and exterior. I want a smooth running engine beyond 70mph (obviously). I really like the headlining you put in your 90. i have plans for the same in mine, as well as the full leather dash etc. sound proofing and carpeting throughout.

flat - I appreciate your comments. I understand you would may have gone about things differently, but I thought that a re-map may solve the issue. It is only now that I realise that there may be a small issue underlying. Had I known, I'd have found and solved the issue before the re-map. Clearly I am no expert when it comes to mechanics. However, every expert was a beginner once so as long as I solve the issues, happy days. I will do as you suggest and check the pipes first.

thanks
Click to expand...

Yeah I know, lots of info on here,

I wasn't meaning get rid of the remap or anything just probably needs a check of everything to get the best out of it :)
 
Flat - yeah I plan to Check over everything! Really want a smooth ride on the motorway, thanks for your help

Banka5152 - oh that's also good to know!, sticking that on the list!
 
Jessy said:
ozzyboydeano - I know now in heinsight that it looks bad that I got it mapped with rad / IC issues. it was really just a shot in the dark at trying to resolve the lack of performance at high revs. Like i have said I am no expert but through reading through threads and researching I'm now leaning a lot more. And hopefully now with your help not he forum I will be able to make better decision going forward. Before I do anything else I will replace the rad and IC because frankly they need doing, obviously.

I do not have a boost gauge installed no. I was told by the man at the tuning company what to do and by how many mm to adjust it by. I told him about the Rad/IC also and he did say you aught to think about replacing both but said it should be fine up until you do.

how would i be able to tell if I have worn injectors?

EGR active still yes, stock exhaust and stock IC, which, is ****. :)
Click to expand...
the guy in the shop should of told you to also install a boost gauge ..as every diaphragm is different to another ie spring tension ans well as age

although winding up the waste gate can result in more boost ..but if your engine isn't getting the desired fuel or lack of oxygen then it wont work
I had a similer issue with the screen gauze located on the bottom of my fuel pump it was clogged ..I replace fuel filter no good ..I also found that the screen gauze in side the cylinder head was choked with carbon due to bad combustion washers

normally a tech tool can run tests on your injectors

as for the egr these don't work at high RPM or under heavy loads ..but you may have a bad egr not sealing correctly ..

have you noticed any abnormal smoke coming out the exhaust under all loads and rpm ?
 
Yes I suspect he should have done. would it be worth blocking the EGR then?.

Erm. I noticed today actually. in idle. revving fully some black smoke will come out but nothing until very hard down on the right pedal. abnormal???. nothing comes out whilst moving however.
 
Hi bud! Sorry to hear of your running probs!

Who remapped it for you?

I have my original intercooler, which I renewed when I changed the rad, works fine, you can have it for free if you pay the postage (pm if interested).

If you're short on dosh, do what I did with the egr. Unbolt the egr pipe at the end of the exhaust mainfold, cut a piece of aluminum to the same shape as the egr pipe you unbolted, smear with exhaust sealant and re fit the egr pipe to the manifold with the piece of ally sandwiches in between. Sure this won't get rid of the valve, but it will stop the sooty crappy hot air going into the intake! Hope that helps!
 
Also, if you have a straight thru pipe on, you will certainly notice a more sooty exhaust under load, as there is no restriction whatsover. With my mid pipe back to original there is virtually no visible smoke, when I had it straight through, under load with a 3.5 tonloadnon the back, it chucked it out! At the end of the day, its a remapped turbo diesel, your inject more diesel to get more power, inevitably, more unburnt crap is going to get chucked out than before!
 
bankz5152 said:
Cheers mate! Adjusting the wastegate adjusts the turbo boost pressure, it shouldnt have a drastic effect on fuel though....
Click to expand...

I will disagree
more boost means more heat to spin the turbine ..where does the heat come from ..more fuel
if you don't have heat means the turbo wont spool up
if this was the case ..

those who pull heavy loads running the same boost level should get the same fuel economy when not pulling a load !

as for winding up boost pressure there will be a limit before the IC reaches its limit ..other wise your pumping in hot air
other wise your right foot actually controls how much fuel you use
 
Last edited:
Turning the boost from 14 - 18psi will not have a drastic, not no effect on fuel. Your argument on towing loads is does not apply as it depends on the max psi set. One could be at full boost at 14psi or higher

18 - 20psi - depending is the max boost before the ECU senses overboost and cuts power, so the standard intercooler will never be overwhelmed.

Heat does not spin the turbine, the exhaust gas does, the heat of the gas does not matter, to an extent.

I may well be wrong, if someone else would please confirm or deny that would be good!
 
bankz5152 said:
Turning the boost from 14 - 18psi will not have a drastic, not no effect on fuel. Your argument on towing loads is does not apply as it depends on the max psi set. One could be at full boost at 14psi or higher

18 - 20psi - depending is the max boost before the ECU senses overboost and cuts power, so the standard intercooler will never be overwhelmed.

Heat does not spin the turbine, the exhaust gas does, the heat of the gas does not matter, to an extent.

I may well be wrong, if someone else would please confirm or deny that would be good!
Click to expand...

this is where the MAP sensor comes to play ..this is the last map to tell the ecu what to do it lets the ecu know how much boost pressure as well has intake air temp

as for heat research how a turbo works !
hot gasses expand this is what pushed the turbine
to make boost you need fuel and air more fuel more air more boost
 
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