Jonewen413

Member
My headlining was saggy and mucky so I decided to remove it to cover it with some fresh carpet. Peeled back the fabric on my headlining and it looks worse than I thought (see pics). Is my headlining worth a fix or is it too far gone? Was thinking I could either refurb the current liner or just stick some closed cell foam on the roof and carpet over the top. Has anyone done this and got some pictures they could share? Thanks.
 

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i have the same problem but my sub structure is broken in places and crumbly. i got another one but i think its from a 90 pick up as the back comes down.
 
Have you not met @Mackers and his defender.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...en-you-can-have-your-own-thread.339087/page-5

Although his taste in covering is not to everybody’s taste, he has made a great effort and looking good results.

J
My taste preferences do seem to be a bit different to mosts :0) I'll put this on my wall too.

I tried scrim tape used to joint plaster board, but I wouldn't use that again because it loosens. This means your headliner fabric which is stuck on top of it will loosen too. I then used what others recommend (glass fibre kit). It strengthens, but don't forget that the shape your headliner is when it's off and on your kitchen table is not necessarily the shape it will be in situ in your tratter. Remember this when patching using a fibreglass kit as the patch has an edge and can create a crease once you install. Hindsight's a marvellous thing. It's only after I finished my headliner that I remembered a product I used on my garden statues years ago. It's called Paverpol and is a fabric stiffner, but it's only like diluted acrylic varnish but with something else in it (link below). Putting a skin on the back of the headliner will also mean that your self-adhesive velcro strips will stay stuck to the headliner (mine became unstuck where my headliner was 'felty'). Don't aim for perfection. I wasn't aiming for perfection anyway. It's 27 years old and considering the mould damage and damage around my sunroof, alpines etc. due to water and condensation, it turned out OK. I have a little something stuck behind my headliner which protrudes so create a bit of a lump on one side, but at least it means my tratter is less likely to disappear (sorry, needs to be a bit cryptic) http://www.paverpol.com/prestashop/en/content/8-about-paverpol and https://www.toolstation.com/velcro-brand-heavy-duty-stick-on-tape/p10306
 
My taste preferences do seem to be a bit different to mosts :0) I'll put this on my wall too.

I tried scrim tape used to joint plaster board, but I wouldn't use that again because it loosens. This means your headliner fabric which is stuck on top of it will loosen too. I then used what others recommend (glass fibre kit). It strengthens, but don't forget that the shape your headliner is when it's off and on your kitchen table is not necessarily the shape it will be in situ in your tratter. Remember this when patching using a fibreglass kit as the patch has an edge and can create a crease once you install. Hindsight's a marvellous thing. It's only after I finished my headliner that I remembered a product I used on my garden statues years ago. It's called Paverpol and is a fabric stiffner, but it's only like diluted acrylic varnish but with something else in it (link below). Putting a skin on the back of the headliner will also mean that your self-adhesive velcro strips will stay stuck to the headliner (mine became unstuck where my headliner was 'felty'). Don't aim for perfection. I wasn't aiming for perfection anyway. It's 27 years old and considering the mould damage and damage around my sunroof, alpines etc. due to water and condensation, it turned out OK. I have a little something stuck behind my headliner which protrudes so create a bit of a lump on one side, but at least it means my tratter is less likely to disappear (sorry, needs to be a bit cryptic) http://www.paverpol.com/prestashop/en/content/8-about-paverpol and https://www.toolstation.com/velcro-brand-heavy-duty-stick-on-tape/p10306
So the headlining itself is fairly rigid, I just wanted to seal the inboard side as the fibres are sticking out and I reckon it will just soak up the moisture. Do I need to apply the fibre glass patches or can I just apply the resin to seal it?
 
So the headlining itself is fairly rigid, I just wanted to seal the inboard side as the fibres are sticking out and I reckon it will just soak up the moisture. Do I need to apply the fibre glass patches or can I just apply the resin to seal it?
I dunno? I can only share my experiences at the moment cos I'm thick as a brick about all things landy at the moment other than what I've learned from asking as I'm a novice.
 
To stop the glue from drying off before its soaked into the former, id give it a few coats of diluted pva to seal it. Any strengthening/ repair patches of fibre glass matting can be stuck to the roof side.
 
when i took mine out it was soaked and and no outer covering left at all.i just let it dry stuck closed cell foam to the roof then recovered the headliner with new material with high temp spray glue and it hasnt moved in 4 years(make sure you use high temp glue as i ran out and used normal in the back that is on this summers list to redo) if you use the proper headlining material its amazing how much that material will stretch
 
when i took mine out it was soaked and and no outer covering left at all.i just let it dry stuck closed cell foam to the roof then recovered the headliner with new material with high temp spray glue and it hasnt moved in 4 years(make sure you use high temp glue as i ran out and used normal in the back that is on this summers list to redo) if you use the proper headlining material its amazing how much that material will stretch
Would it be worth putting some sound dampening sheet under the insulation as well or is that just wasted material? I have rubbed the head lining down and will be covering it this weekend. Cheers
 
Having lined the rear a few years ago this was an overdue job... so finally got around to relining the front section:
I never realised or expected there would be all this wiring up there... only the speakers and interior light were connected
Landy Headliner 01.jpg
So pulled off the old liner, easy enough... most had already unstuck itself, hence the saggyness...thought this foam would be a PITA to remove but a scrubbing brush had it done in no time:
Landy Headliner 02.jpg
Quick blow off, and on with the glue... came with the material:
Landy Headliner 03.jpg
Saw this trick online... lay material over, then fold half back to spray underside... so you smooth down half at a time...glad it was a small area:
Landy Headliner 04.jpg
Didn't turn out too bad... you can peal back and re lay if you're quick, but this material was quite stretchy and it was luck that I didn't pull it out of shape... lefy a good overlap to fold around the back... I don't have a staple gun - the original was stapled from the rear.
Landy Headliner 05.jpg
And then fiddle fiddle to get it all back in
Landy Headliner 06.jpg


Glad the colour match was good, as I didn't have a record of what I had used for the rear.

The material has stuck well but I notice a lot of movement when I push up... it's not flapping around, or touching my head... just wondering if anyone else has had this... anyone put extra fir tree fixings into the roof ribs?
 
I lined the rear of my Def90 TD5 with Dodomat and then put the 4 way stretch grey matting over the top using spray on glue that came from the same company on Ebay. It is now a lot quieter and warmer. The Dodomat comes in sheets and are self adhesive and can be cut with scissors. The grey matting looks good on top of it all.
 

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