lupus

Member

• Dec 31, 2024

• #21

Thanks all, back at it tomorrow.. I do have a RFBFH in reserve to attack the ball joint with. Thanks for the tip on the breather bolt, it did not look like yellow metal but I'll pretend it is.

The diff looks and feels ok, I will get a gauge on it when it comes back from the blasters, but if it is near tolerance I would really rather not take it apart just yet. Here in Germany specialist tools and parts are hard to come by, and for now it would be good to get it through its TüV (MOT) test and into service. If it is way out of tolerance then all bets are off, I will strip it and rebuild.

A set of halfshafts and drive flanges from Ashcrofts are 950 pounds! But I am trying to avoid swapping them for something worse than the ones that have come out.. the 50 bucks a pop sets from a lot of parts dealers don't seem that appealing.

Anyone found a happy medium?

 

lupus

Member

• Dec 31, 2024

• #22

Thanks Steve!

steve2286w said:

A frame Ball joint

Gents, do i need any special tools or support to change my A frame upper ball joint, it looks fairly simple, but I'll be doing it on the driveway just laid under the car, So do I need to support anything, before something drops on my head. ( 1986 defender 90)

www.landyzone.co.uk

This might help

Click to expand...

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Dec 31, 2024

• #23

Those halfshafts look fine both ends not burred over apart from outside of circlip groove

 

lupus

Member

• Jan 3, 2025

• #24

So, I brought out the big guns on the A frame ball joint. Ding ding, round 1 to me.

Then pushed out the bushed from radius arms. I got to over 10 tonnes on some of them.

 

lupus

Member

• Jan 3, 2025

• #25

A few thing of interest on the suspension support brackets.

The swivel housing bolts were pretty tough to get out but they all did. Nothing snapped.

I then had a session with some chain blocks..

So, barring 1 or 2 items to be cleaned and inspected from this pile, I am ready to go get blasted.

 

lupus

Member

• Jan 3, 2025

• #26

I am happy with the braking power of the drum brakes. If they are adjusted well and the shoes are in good nick they work fine. I lose traction before I get to full braking power, particularly when not loaded and the truck is light. I think this would be the same with disks on the rear.

What I would like is ABS on the front, but from my brief research it doesn't seem to be a thing. Anyone have any experience of converting the front end of an early 90's 200TDi to ABS?

 

julianf

Well-Known Member

• Jan 3, 2025

• #27

lupus said:

I am happy with the braking power of the drum brakes. If they are adjusted well and the shoes are in good nick they work fine. I lose traction before I get to full braking power, particularly when not loaded and the truck is light. I think this would be the same with disks on the rear.

What I would like is ABS on the front, but from my brief research it doesn't seem to be a thing. Anyone have any experience of converting the front end of an early 90's 200TDi to ABS?

View attachment 332713

Click to expand...

I was chatting to a 300 disco ower the other day, whose build had factory abs.

He was complaining about the discos control modules (which I think do the abs as well, right?)

I just mention this out of caution. I think I'd rather do it from scratch rather than fit shifty old landrover parts!

Another option, which isn't abs at all, is to fit the abs servo and the lof conversion thing. Again it's not abs in the slightest but it does make it easier to lock up the brakes....

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Saturday at 15:05

• #28

Good work, that suspension support looks well gone , are parts available to weld new one on or is it a repair

 

lupus

Member

• Sunday at 22:31

• #29

I can find rear suspension and swing arm weld on brackets so far, will keep looking for some front ones, but nothing so far.

Are swivels pinions supposed to be rounded over like this?

 

lupus

Member

• Sunday at 22:36

• #30

Also, another question.. sorry but I am off the map here.

The large bore in this bracket had a tonne of corrosion, but no bush, it looked like it may have had one and it disintegrated. Yay or nay?

..and yes, that is a bolt welded on.

Here it is on the truck.

 

lupus

Member

• Sunday at 22:41

• #31

I made a jig to sink the hub in to so that I could get the brake disks off. No work of art but it is sure to stay in the workshop for a long time.

Bearings out...

More cleaning today too. Goodbye 33 years of goo and ick.

 

lupus

Member

• Tuesday at 22:26

• #32

I delivered a trailer full of steel to Heinrich the Sandstrahler yesterday. Should be back at the end of the week, I can't wait to get some primer on, I am using 2 part epoxy primer and top coats. Once hard the axles and linkages will probably then be wiped over with black waxoil.

So, I had the handbrake off. It is basically in very good nick, except that it is FULL of oil. Actually it is probably in good nick because it is full of oil.

So a lot of today was about preparing to drop the boxes. I personally have never had them off, but I understand it is easier to get them both off together than just the transfer box. Seats are out, gearbox tunnel tomorrow, then go find an engine hoist or make a frame to lower it from. Any one got a favorite design that can be lashed together from poles? I have some heavy scaff tubes and string.

 

lupus

Member

• Tuesday at 22:30

• #33

I also updated the wooden lower door support brackets. They are not in the Haynes manual. This one was probably a plank from the nearest pallet to hand 18 years ago, it is totally crap wood, and testament to the logevity you can get with a soak in rot-proofer and a lagging with lithuim grease They have done their job admirably but are now not long for this world.

It is funny having a conversation with yourself 18 years ago. I could not afford stainless back then clearly.

I thought I would go upmarket and reinstall Quercus Penduncular, show the old girl some love.

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Wednesday at 09:02

• #34

On my series getting box out used a plank between seats and dash to take strain and got it out the passenger door, to put back in built an A frame with scaffolding and got a hoist.
Looks like you got a hoist too hanging up not sure on yours but an option could be engine out and boxes at same time
Keep t pics coming

 

lupus

Member

• Wednesday at 20:17

• #35

Thanks for the tip! I only have a pallet truck which is great for sliding bits out from under, and some chain hoists, but there is a guy over the way who may have an engine hoist I could use through the door if all else fails.

Non related, but I visited the blaster today and he had an Opel on the go. Not sure which type, maybe a Manta?

33 years of UK road salt and salty Cornish air gone!!

I have prepared it for painting tomorrow, I will have to use heaters as the data sheet for the primer says not to use below 5C. Tomorrow it is forecast for 2C. I have been wondering and searching online for paint for the springs, and so far have not found much good information, only that surface preparation is key (excuse the pun) for good adhesion, and a primer is recommended (duh) so that there is no cracking due to them flexing. The only specific paint that I know about is not available here, and the alternative is to dip them in plastic, which when it has the smallest of surface cracks or a stone chip keeps water in due to capillarity which never evaporates and enhances corrosion, and then the springs crack.

I think I am just going to cover them in the same epoxy primer as the rest of the parts, good and thick, and be done with it.

The axles... so cleeean. So fresh!

The blasting has shown up some terrible DIY welding, and also some (I think) manufacturing weld defects, in this case surface porosity.

 

tottot

Well-Known Member

• Wednesday at 21:38

• #36

Big hole in steering box support is how it should be. Cant remember why.

 

lupus

Member

• Wednesday at 22:05

• #37

Thanks... and thanks for telling me what it is called When I took it off it seemed like the hole had been rattling around loose, and it was enough to allow a thick layer of corrosion to build up, but it was broken up and powdery like it had been pulverised a bit, like what a loose bolt would do. I am on the hunt for #9 tie bar in the drawing, it has a weld on bit of stud and I think the cap of the weld somehow is interfering with the fit.

Drawing stolen shamelessly from Rovers North.

 

Last edited: Wednesday at 22:18

lupus

Member

• Yesterday at 22:32

• #38

The weather has turned unexpectedly cold here, below the stated usable temperature stated on the primer data sheet. So I held back on priming today and spent it putting this in.

This all fully complies with the Bundesregierung building codes of course. Could be one of those temporary permanent things.

One day more of the same weather we have been having for the last 3 weeks, and I would have been home dry with absolute virgin mint steel and the correct conditions for the paint. ONE DAY! This is what you get for 24 hours sitting in the colder wetter air, in an otherwise dry but breezy barn with the doors closed. I have thrown some phosphoric acid over it, and I hope when it is dry it will not leave a residue to alter the paint. I am being finicky but I was hoping for a better starting point.

I am going to get the stove stove lit good and early tomorrow and everything is getting primed come hell or high water.