Clarky130

Clarky130

New Member
Adjusted my steering box earlier today... And it seems it was the final piece in the puzzle to curing my death wander. Rangie is now rock solid - no wobble, veering off at random, or tramlining. Steers and handles like a brand new (ish) car!

The journey here has been quite long though... I have done the following:

Checked all steering balljoints & hubs (all were solid)
Replaced Tyres
Replaced front radius arm bushes
Replaced front Panhard rod bushes
Replaced steering damper
Replaced all 4 shocks
Replaced rear airbags (tired, saggy, and perished - although not obviously leaking)
Checked and adjusted EAS heights (rear was down by an inch or so)
Checked and adjusted steering box lash - there was about +/- an inch or so free play at the wheel.

At each stage, a significant improvement was seen. Adjusting out the free play in the steering box finally made it feel rock-solid.

Result!!
 
Damn good job. And you've fixed / prevented a whole host of future problems in the process. Well done!
 
Most people would've given up...

I admire your persistance in getting the issue solved.
Nice work :)
 
I am still looking for a fix for my problem and finally found someone willing to help me in Japan when both my original dealer and Land Rover Japan said that... 4 to 6cm difference in Air Sus is normal... Anyway really looking for my App with this RRC and P38 specialist here in Tokyo.
 
Adjusted my steering box earlier today... And it seems it was the final piece in the puzzle to curing my death wander. Rangie is now rock solid - no wobble, veering off at random, or tramlining. Steers and handles like a brand new (ish) car!<br />
<br />
The journey here has been quite long though... I have done the following:<br />
<br />
Checked all steering balljoints & hubs (all were solid)<br />
Replaced Tyres<br />
Replaced front radius arm bushes<br />
Replaced front Panhard rod bushes<br />
Replaced steering damper <br />
Replaced all 4 shocks<br />
Replaced rear airbags (tired, saggy, and perished - although not obviously leaking)<br />
Checked and adjusted EAS heights (rear was down by an inch or so)<br />
Checked and adjusted steering box lash - there was about +/- an inch or so free play at the wheel. <br />
<br />
At each stage, a significant improvement was seen. Adjusting out the free play in the steering box finally made it feel rock-solid. <br />
<br />
Result!!
Click to expand...

Good result. Now with hindsight what order would you suggest a forum member with the same problem should tackle them in?
 
obviously you check all parts that can be checked without replacement ,an easy way to check for play in system is to hold track rod ,drag link ,steerin linkage while someone rocks the steering wheel you can feel play in any joint much better than checking each joint with a bar ,steering should only be checked with steering box central
 
jamesmartin said:
obviously you check all parts that can be checked without replacement ,an easy way to check for play in system is to hold track rod ,drag link ,steerin linkage while someone rocks the steering wheel you can feel play in any joint much better than checking each joint with a bar ,steering should only be checked with steering box central
Click to expand...

What he said. Check everything for wear and play first, then start with the cheap fixes. I'd start with anything that's obviously broke or worn. In hindsight, I would have adjusted the steering box first, although I always advocate replacing bushes on a car that's old / covered alot of miles. Just because your bushes would get you through an MOT and aren't hanging out the arms, doesn't mean they're good! Same for shocks - there didn't seem to be a huge amount of difference in the steering damper I took off and the new one I replaced it with... But it made all the difference 'under load'.

In addition - and this doesn't often get mentioned - dont ignore the rear suspension just because you have a problem with steering! Ive had cars before where the front end was tight as you like, but still wandered like a good 'un. Sloppy rear geometry will affect it too. In my case, the rear EAS heights were a fair bit lower than they should have been - putting them right stabilised the steering a little - your rear ride height will affect your front camber and even the slightest bit of bad suspension geometry can make a modern vehicle throw a wobbly.
 
Thanks clarky for info. Great write up.

Ive got terrible steering wander, almost feels dangerous & unsettling at times.

So far I've replaced steering damper, & adjusted play in steering box. It has improved say 50%, so will check drag link & ball joints next. What do you recon as to anti-roll bar bushes & how do I check them.

Matt
 
Clarky130 said:
Adjusted my steering box earlier today... And it seems it was the final piece in the puzzle to curing my death wander. Rangie is now rock solid - no wobble, veering off at random, or tramlining. Steers and handles like a brand new (ish) car!

The journey here has been quite long though... I have done the following:

Checked all steering balljoints & hubs (all were solid)
Replaced Tyres
Replaced front radius arm bushes
Replaced front Panhard rod bushes
Replaced steering damper
Replaced all 4 shocks
Replaced rear airbags (tired, saggy, and perished - although not obviously leaking)
Checked and adjusted EAS heights (rear was down by an inch or so)
Checked and adjusted steering box lash - there was about +/- an inch or so free play at the wheel.

At each stage, a significant improvement was seen. Adjusting out the free play in the steering box finally made it feel rock-solid.

Result!!
Click to expand...

Hi, is it a big job to check and adjust the EAS? I have just replaced all 4 tyres and this has made a big improvement, but I still get a little bit of a wander if there is a camber in the road.
 
eloteq said:
Thanks clarky for info. Great write up.

Ive got terrible steering wander, almost feels dangerous & unsettling at times.

So far I've replaced steering damper, & adjusted play in steering box. It has improved say 50%, so will check drag link & ball joints next. What do you recon as to anti-roll bar bushes & how do I check them.

Matt
Click to expand...

Anti-roll bar bushes are very easy - I would suggest removing the brackets to get a proper look at them. If they're worn, they will affect your 'roll' stability, so will have some bearing on overall front end stability, but I'm guessing not a great deal. As with all of these things though, you'll find that anything worn or knackered you replace will improve matters to a degree. I found no need to remove the anti-roll bar links to get mine off, and all 4 bracket bolts were accessible with my impact gun, so they were off in seconds.

I would say mine was in a 'dangerous' state when I got it - it was like wrestling an angry python!!
 
Bollotti said:
Hi, is it a big job to check and adjust the EAS? I have just replaced all 4 tyres and this has made a big improvement, but I still get a little bit of a wander if there is a camber in the road.
Click to expand...

Tbh, I STILL get a little 'camber wander' - but no more than I would get in any other car - and massively improved on what it was. Are you wearing 18s? If so most people seem to report a greater degree of tramlining and camber wander with those, even with otherwise good suspension / steering.

Adjusting the EAS heights was dealt with in another thread I recenty started. You need a software suite (free) called 'EASunlock' and a suitable serial-to-OBDII cable (caution - it's NOT a standard pinout for P38s!)

Datatek is the expert on all things EAS, and can also supply the cables at very reasonable cost.
 
Good write up Clarky, as a matter of interest, is yours on 16" or 18"? My wobble was cured by changing to 16" after doing most of what you did to no effect.
 
Currently wearing 16" steel modulars with muds on in preparation for Salisbury this weekend - but afterwards I'll be putting my 18s back on - will report what they feel like. I must say the tramlining was a little less violent with the 16s on - even with the muds -but was still very much there. So it'll really p*ss on my chips if it all comes back when I re-fit my 18s!
 
Thanks Clarky for all your explanation, I will make sure to check all these details with the mechanics that is suppose to fix my car steering to the left, coz as for today all have been changed from tire to steering gearbox and tires... The only things that I noticed is the different in Suspension eight on the rear left of several CM compare to the rear right and go figure, the car steer to the left... If they can't figure out why, the only thing left that I have is to swap the 18" Disco wheels to original 16" ones... But I really hope that it will not be the case.
 
SpacePig said:
Thanks Clarky for all your explanation, I will make sure to check all these details with the mechanics that is suppose to fix my car steering to the left, coz as for today all have been changed from tire to steering gearbox and tires... The only things that I noticed is the different in Suspension eight on the rear left of several CM compare to the rear right and go figure, the car steer to the left... If they can't figure out why, the only thing left that I have is to swap the 18" Disco wheels to original 16" ones... But I really hope that it will not be the case.
Click to expand...

I would put money on that height difference causing your pulling. Might be difficult and costly given your location, buy definitely get your EAS heights recalibrated and get it sitting level before you go any further, else all your suspension geometry will be screwed up!

I once had a car that, try as I might, I just could not get it to steer straight... Even after visits to various specialist independents and several main dealers. Finally took it to a mechanic I trusted (not a specialist with US Domestic cars, but it turned out this one had borrowed it's rear suspension from a Merc, and he was an 'import' specialist) and he spotted the problem within 2 minutes... The rear springs were sagging by well over an inch and a half.... Replacing these made all the difference in the world!
 
Last edited:
Clarky130 said:
I would put money on that height difference causing your pulling. Might be difficult and costly given your location, buy definitely get your EAS heights recalibrated and get it sitting level before you go any further, else all your suspension geometry will be screwed up!

I once had a car that, try as I might, I just could not get it to steer straight... Even after visits to various specialist independents and several main dealers. Finally took it to a mechanic I trusted (not a specialist with US Domestic cars, but it turned out this one had borrowed it's rear suspension from a Merc, and he was an 'import' specialist) and he spotted the problem within 2 minutes... The rear springs were sagging by well over an inch and a half.... Replacing these made all the difference in the world!
Click to expand...

Thanks mate, and yes this is going to cost me, here in Japan they charge you at least 5 to 10x the usual price you have in UK for parts.

To give you an idea, 4x set of Airbags (suspension) is in OEM announced at 1500 GBP and Land Rover ones 3429 GBP.... Many stuff I changed on my car I imported them and find someone to install them, but this time... :(
 
SpacePig said:
Thanks mate, and yes this is going to cost me, here in Japan they charge you at least 5 to 10x the usual price you have in UK for parts.

To give you an idea, 4x set of Airbags (suspension) is in OEM announced at 1500 GBP and Land Rover ones 3429 GBP.... Many stuff I changed on my car I imported them and find someone to install them, but this time... :(
Click to expand...

Looks like your government are imposing very unfair import tariffs. Maybe it's something our government could consider for your goods. Would be cheaper to get a flight over here and take some back with you.
 
SpacePig said:
Thanks mate, and yes this is going to cost me, here in Japan they charge you at least 5 to 10x the usual price you have in UK for parts.

To give you an idea, 4x set of Airbags (suspension) is in OEM announced at 1500 GBP and Land Rover ones 3429 GBP.... Many stuff I changed on my car I imported them and find someone to install them, but this time... :(
Click to expand...

Holy s**t!!!

Have you tried Island 4x4? I'm sure they would ship internationally, at a fraction of that price?

Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. - Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
 
Thanks for this great thread, I've just bought my first RR and I'm experiencing a bit of death wander so your thread will be very helpful.
 
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