J

Jaykay1987

Active Member
i bought a w reg td5 D2 auto with 150 on the clock as a non runner. As far as im aware, the lad i got it off bought it crash damaged to do up, he changed fuel filter then its never ran since...now im not an expert on engines as im a sprayer...anyhow i know about the bleed procedure which i done god knows how many times, i have done properly as i already have another td5...Just smokes like a pig (unburnt juice) and after a lot trying to fire still, nothing...heres what i have done And know up to now
1)checked fuel pump ok
2)checked its getting fuel at injectors
3)glowplugs work
4)checked all fuses & relays seem ok
Now something i did find was when i took the filter off to fill it with derv before bleeding, the inner rubber seal wasnt there so got another fitted and will check tomorrow as battery wont crank long enough now...also when its not trying to fire as in no rev, it turns over good but when rev's down (after bleed procedure) the battery bogs down and cant keep cranking long enough to start...sorry for the essay just trying to be clear lol
 
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OK,

then something that is known to cause this problem is the Crank Position Sensor.

May be worth your while doing a quick search on it.
If you can get a diagnostics on it you may see the fault recorded.

In the short term , you might want to check the wiring is connected.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
OK,

then something that is known to cause this problem is the Crank Position Sensor.

May be worth your while doing a quick search on it.
If you can get a diagnostics on it you may see the fault recorded.

In the short term , you might want to check the wiring is connected.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Ive just spoke to my mate now, he had it put on a diagnostic and the only thing that came up was something to do with the cruise control...but ill definatley check that tomorrow, and if wiring seems ok, isit worth trying a new crank sensor anyway?

Cheers
 
Just a couple of questions which might or might not help you on your way ....
Random or nonsense diagnosis codes are often a result of using an incompatible code reader. The diesel Disco 2 is not fully OBDII compliant, that's why here on the forum and in other places people bang on about the Nanocom, Hawkeye, Lynx or testbook. What code reader did you use to get the cruise control diagnosis?
What check did you do to enable you to say that the glow plugs are working?
The battery on a Td5 need to be really tip-top, if the voltage drops too much during cranking there's no way it'll fire.
 
brian47 said:
Just a couple of questions which might or might not help you on your way ....
Random or nonsense diagnosis codes are often a result of using an incompatible code reader. The diesel Disco 2 is not fully OBDII compliant, that's why here on the forum and in other places people bang on about the Nanocom, Hawkeye, Lynx or testbook. What code reader did you use to get the cruise control diagnosis?
What check did you do to enable you to say that the glow plugs are working?
The battery on a Td5 need to be really tip-top, if the voltage drops too much during cranking there's no way it'll fire.
Click to expand...
Hi brian47,
It was an auto elec near me, hes the dogs danglies and well known, Im guessing it would have been probably a solus,was definatley snap-on.
Also i checked the glow plugs by taking them out and wiring them to a battery, then while they were out i checked with multimeter all wiring going to them and all showing 12v. But like i say turns over easy when not touching rev but the battery is only a 90ah beleive an auto td5 needs 110ah?
Cheers
 
Well that's me told then, just like my doctor was when I told him I don't drink and I no longer smoke .......
He was f*cked too, has to work for a living now! :rolleyes:
He did get around that problem by declaring "Well, you're over 60, what do you expect?" :eek: :confused:
Really, I do get on OK with my GP. :D
 
Mine smoked badly, white acrid smoke, when an injector had failed.
On a diesel with an injector pump, which the TD5 doesnt have, its often a wrongly timed pump.
Worth getting the injectors checked over.
But do the CPS first as it may be throwing bad signals which can screw up the injector timing.
Mark
 
As the battery behaviour was described it's most probably low voltage issue as the starter especially on autos will spin happily on 9v but for the EGU to open the injectors above 10.5V is needed, simple check is to charge the battery to full and measure voltage while cranking...if it drops below 10V it will not start whatsoever so you need a powerfull battery also if the voltage drops with powerfull battery too the problem might be within the starter and it disturbs the crank signal.
 
Just got a brand spanking new battery 1000a 120ah also has had a starter...it turns over perfectly but Only if i dont have my foot the floor! but if after doing bleed procedure, if i hold the pedal down as per, it starts bogging down like the battery is dying along with the battery light flashing...if i take my foot off it turns over perfect
 
JayKay1987 said:
....but if after doing bleed procedure, if i hold the pedal down as per...
Click to expand...

It's not supposed to push the throttle at all after the bleed procedure as long as the fuel rail was not empty before that and even then only first time untill it starts, what you did with the throttle flooded the engine and it might have got hydrolocked that's why it cranks hard....better read the workshop manual how you should do things, if after you replaced the battery and you made the purge you pushed the throttle this can be the cause of non starting even if the problem was the battery or starter before... better remove the glow plugs and let the fuel evaporate then dont touch the throttle again....see the second paragraph

Fuel system purging.jpg
 
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sierrafery said:
It's not supposed to push the throttle at all after the bleed procedure as long as the fuel rail was not empty before that and even then only first time untill it starts, what you did with the throttle flooded the engine and it might have got hydrolocked that's why it cranks hard....better read the workshop manual how you should do things, if after you replaced the battery and you made the purge you pushed the throttle this can be the cause of non starting even if the problem was the battery or starter before... better remove the glow plugs and let the fuel evaporate then dont touch the throttle again....see the second paragraph

View attachment 110417
Click to expand...

Ive done that procedure to the word, it says after purging fully depress the accelerator, which is what im doing...so im taking it as it has been fully purged and should now be no longer full of air, so with no throttle it should start? But its not just turns for ever
 
Also with d2 td5 you are meant to pump the pedal 5 times then it starts the bleed procedure, what you have posted in a defender td5 i think
 
Td5 is Td5 no matter if it's defender or D2 albeit what i posted is from D2 workshop manual.... that 5 pedal thing is not an "official" method but it works for any Td5...though i think you missed the bolded part (that second paragraph from the document as i said):
"If this procedure is carried out on a vehicle that
has not run out of fuel or otherwise drawn air into
the fuel rail, it can lead to the engine flooding and
failing to start."
so was your's empty of fuel or are you sure it had air in it before that purging sequence or not? ............ re-read my post
 
sierrafery said:
Td5 is Td5 no matter if it's defender or D2 albeit what i posted is from D2 workshop manual.... that 5 pedal thing is not an "official" method but it works for any Td5...though i think you missed the bolded part (that second paragraph from the document as i said):
"If this procedure is carried out on a vehicle that
has not run out of fuel or otherwise drawn air into
the fuel rail, it can lead to the engine flooding and
failing to start."
so was your's empty of fuel or are you sure it had air in it before that purging sequence or not? ............ re-read my post
Click to expand...
 
It had a fuel filter change, it says in my original post...i understand what you where saying just got a bit confused as the only way i could get to purge was with the pedal 5 times...just cleared the cylinders, by taking glowplugs out and turning engine over, cheers sierrafery cranking over at pace now ...Now discovered, when cranking over properly noticed what looked like smoke (unburnt derv), coming from air box, long story short i took oil cap off, looks like injectors are chuffing, would think this is the culprit? Fingers crossed ill change seals tomorrow
 
That thing with 5 throttles to purge is the same like simply leaving the ignition on II for 3 minutes and you can't flood the engine as long as you dont crank it... that bolded part refers to the starting procedure which means to not touch the throttle while you crank it as long as the rail was not empty....after a filter change is enough to purge it then crank it without touching the throttle or you might flood it... exactly what you did
 
sierrafery said:
Td5 is Td5 no matter if it's defender or D2 albeit what i posted is from D2 workshop manual.... that 5 pedal thing is not an "official" method but it works for any Td5...though i think you missed the bolded part (that second paragraph from the document as i said):
"If this procedure is carried out on a vehicle that
has not run out of fuel or otherwise drawn air into
the fuel rail, it can lead to the engine flooding and
failing to start."
so was your's empty of fuel or are you sure it had air in it before that purging sequence or not? ............ re-read my post
Click to expand...
ive never seen one lock with excess diesel caused by full pedal, difficult starts are helped by full pedal often, petrols are a different matter
 
sierrafery said:
That thing with 5 throttles to purge is the same like simply leaving the ignition on II for 3 minutes and you can't flood the engine as long as you dont crank it... that bolded part refers to the starting procedure which means to not touch the throttle while you crank it as long as the rail was not empty....after a filter change is enough to purge it then crank it without touching the throttle or you might flood it... exactly what you did
Click to expand...
Ye i get it now, just been trying it all night, definatley not a fuel problem...do you think if the injectors chuffing could stop it firing?
 
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