Guys you have all been very helpful.

I have the car booked in to my guy Monday. Since this list is getting long and a bit like chasing ghosts, I'm going to get him to check for fault codes, and clear them. Maybe blow out fuel lines. Replace filter. Check fuel pump pressure. Basically all the things he did last time that have given me 2 years trouble free!

And then, I thought I might have a go myself at…
Replacing Crank Sensor.
Replacing injector + washers. (injectors are at 350,000kms. I figure new ones cant hurt!)
Replacing fuel pump.

Question.
How difficult are those jobs listed above for a home mechanic with some experience?
(I own several air-cooled Volkswagens which i service and wrench on myself, so very limited experience on diesels and the Td5, but not a complete workshop novice!)

I'm aware some of these are expensive to have done professionally and I like to know exactly what has been done and what's going on.

Thoughts?
 
NZ Pablo said:
Guys you have all been very helpful.

I have the car booked in to my guy Monday. Since this list is getting long and a bit like chasing ghosts, I'm going to get him to check for fault codes, and clear them. Maybe blow out fuel lines. Replace filter. Check fuel pump pressure. Basically all the things he did last time that have given me 2 years trouble free!

And then, I thought I might have a go myself at…
Replacing Crank Sensor.
Replacing injector + washers. (injectors are at 350,000kms. I figure new ones cant hurt!)
Replacing fuel pump.

Question.
How difficult are those jobs listed above for a home mechanic with some experience?
(I own several air-cooled Volkswagens which i service and wrench on myself, so very limited experience on diesels and the Td5, but not a complete workshop novice!)

I'm aware some of these are expensive to have done professionally and I like to know exactly what has been done and what's going on.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Don't know about replacing the crank sensor, but I'd say Youl do just fine with the injectors/seals and the fuel pump.

To get to the injectors You just need to take the rocker cover off, the rocker shaft off and injectors are there. Unbolt them and pry them up with something like a allen key or and upholstery "screwdriver".
Just remember that You need to rotate the engine to get all injectors out, as the camshaft lobes will deny removal if it's in wrong position.
I tried pulling etc for a while until I realized that..

Fuel pump..
If no one has done it before.. Lift the boot carpet, open the hatch on the boot floor, unhook the pipes and power, unscrew the metal "nut" holding the pump down and just lift and wiggle it out.
Remember to put the new gasket on the tank, and not on the pump when reinstalling.

If You fancy, make a correct location and shape hole in the carpet to access the hatch later on.
There should be visible depression on the underside of the carpet so You know where to cut.
Or do a random hack and cut from above from wrong location a few times as some previous owner did on my TD5.
 
All you questions can be answered via LZ search engine??

If you know your way around VWs! You should have no problems fixing?

Shop around for parts? (Don't know the landrover ownership down your parts? But @GrumpyGel?? (Christchurch)Was on LZ)

As I have said before! There is nothing on the D1-D2s you can't do yourself!! With or without help.

Keep very friendly with a local garage owner! (Pit or RAMP!!) Are a godsend for some works needed! you can do?

Kev
 
Dervishi said:
Just remember that You need to rotate the engine to get all injectors out, as the camshaft lobes will deny removal if it's in wrong position.
Click to expand...
Getting the injector timing right when refitting is important too - use the timing indicators on the cam rather than eyeballing it.
 
Badger688 said:
All you questions can be answered via LZ search engine??

If you know your way around VWs! You should have no problems fixing?

Shop around for parts? (Don't know the landrover ownership down your parts? But @GrumpyGel?? (Christchurch)Was on LZ)

As I have said before! There is nothing on the D1-D2s you can't do yourself!! With or without help.

Keep very friendly with a local garage owner! (Pit or RAMP!!) Are a godsend for some works needed! you can do?

Kev
Click to expand...
Lucky I have decent ears. Heard you calling whilst in the Freelander section. ;)

I, like lots/most LR owners here, get my parts from the same places peeps in the UK do. My personal preferences are lrdirect.com and Rimmers. But your Paddocks, Famous Four etc might be others.

These places all stock most parts available and have to compete against each other to offer decent prices. Availability of parts in NZ is limited and usually MUCH more expensive. If I have a WOF (MOT) fail and need a part quick, I'm more likely to do a Google for NZ suppliers. However, that's been very rare in the last 13 years as I drive a Freelander. It was much more likely in the 8 years before when I drove a Discovery ;)

My experience of deliveries from lrdirect has been great. Parts usually get delivered inside a week and although it obviously costs a fair bit, it's still (a lot) cheaper than buying locally. Ordering is done online, so I'll pick the bits I need, and that is great using someone like lrdirect because they will often offer genuine/oem/aftermarket parts and I can choose which I want (you won't get that in NZ). I'll then find how much they want for shipping, then I'll go back and add in any other parts that I 'fancy' or think I may need, checking the delivery cost, until it goes up - it must be done at size or weight breaks, so pad out to next limit.

Regardless of location, what I would say to @NZ Pablo is to get a code reader if its viable. I don't know much about the D2 diagnostics. If its like my F1 and needs a proprietary reader I have never got 1 as they are expensive and its cheaper to pay a LR indie shop to read the codes (usually for ABS). If its more like my F2 and cheaper, more generic, readers will work, then get 1. I have an Autel AP200 - it reads the codes on all (most?) ECUs and I've even programmed new keys with it. Cost $139 off a local supplier on TradeMe (OP will know what that is!).

Nice to have another Kiwi member aboard :D
 
GrumpyGel said:
Lucky I have decent ears. Heard you calling whilst in the Freelander section. ;)

I, like lots/most LR owners here, get my parts from the same places peeps in the UK do. My personal preferences are lrdirect.com and Rimmers. But your Paddocks, Famous Four etc might be others.

These places all stock most parts available and have to compete against each other to offer decent prices. Availability of parts in NZ is limited and usually MUCH more expensive. If I have a WOF (MOT) fail and need a part quick, I'm more likely to do a Google for NZ suppliers. However, that's been very rare in the last 13 years as I drive a Freelander. It was much more likely in the 8 years before when I drove a Discovery ;)

My experience of deliveries from lrdirect has been great. Parts usually get delivered inside a week and although it obviously costs a fair bit, it's still (a lot) cheaper than buying locally. Ordering is done online, so I'll pick the bits I need, and that is great using someone like lrdirect because they will often offer genuine/oem/aftermarket parts and I can choose which I want (you won't get that in NZ). I'll then find how much they want for shipping, then I'll go back and add in any other parts that I 'fancy' or think I may need, checking the delivery cost, until it goes up - it must be done at size or weight breaks, so pad out to next limit.

Regardless of location, what I would say to @NZ Pablo is to get a code reader if its viable. I don't know much about the D2 diagnostics. If its like my F1 and needs a proprietary reader I have never got 1 as they are expensive and its cheaper to pay a LR indie shop to read the codes (usually for ABS). If its more like my F2 and cheaper, more generic, readers will work, then get 1. I have an Autel AP200 - it reads the codes on all (most?) ECUs and I've even programmed new keys with it. Cost $139 off a local supplier on TradeMe (OP will know what that is!).

Nice to have another Kiwi member aboard :D
Click to expand...
Thanks for your response πŸ˜πŸ‘‹πŸ»

Hope all can be sorted for @NZ Pablo

Kev
 
Dervishi said:
Is there any actual how-to for this?
Using the indicators?
Click to expand...
The flange on the front of the cam has indicators for when each the injector lobe for each cylinder is at full lift.

There's a picture here:
www.landyzone.co.uk

Injector Timing Marks

In Rave it says there are marks on the camshaft, which line up with the cam carrier. This lets you accurately set full lift on each injector when doing the bump adjustment. This is a new one on me, as I've never seen them. Has anyone seen these marks and possibly explain where to look.
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk

RAVE doesn't mention them as part of the procedure for adjusting the injector clearances, but otherwise the steps are as in RAVE.
 
UPDATE:
Local mechanic found following faults:
Fuel Temp Circuit Fault. Logged
Turbo Overboosting Fault. Logged
Click to expand...
We didn't think either of these were likely related to my problem. But we could be wrong! Someone here might know differently?

Anyway, this is what they did:
Clear codes and monitor live data during road test.
Found all data within spec during test.
Remove engine cover, remove, clean and refit fuel temperature sensor connector.
Raise on hoist, remove fuel filter and filter housing. Blow through housing, fit new filter, prime system and run engine.
Click to expand...
AKA not very much!

BUT car has been running OK since then. I say OK. It still feels kinda rough sometimes on warm up for the first few kms. Again, as if only running on 4 or fuel starvation issues?

I'm tempted to order a new wiring loom and work through the other main suspects 1 by 1, to see if I can get a noticeable improvement.
 
"Eyeballing" full lift of the cam lobes is the only accurate way. The timing marks are not always 100% accurate
 
NZ Pablo said:
UPDATE:
Local mechanic found following faults:

We didn't think either of these were likely related to my problem. But we could be wrong! Someone here might know differently?

Anyway, this is what they did:

AKA not very much!

BUT car has been running OK since then. I say OK. It still feels kinda rough sometimes on warm up for the first few kms. Again, as if only running on 4 or fuel starvation issues?

I'm tempted to order a new wiring loom and work through the other main suspects 1 by 1, to see if I can get a noticeable improvement.
Click to expand...
Fuel temp and overboost faults are unlikely to cause cutting out. Have they done a fuel pressure test ? Although cutting out is quite often either a failing fuel pump relay or injectors seals normally.
 
sierrafery said:
Strangely we've got carried away with all kind of discussions and i forgot to tell you to do this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ , i agree that the FT or overboost codes should not cause the symptoms described in your first post, would be a loss of power but stalling is quite unlikely with these codes
Click to expand...
Followed your instructions and checked voltage across F10 while running.

22.3 at idle.

Dropping to 22 or 21 while revving at 2000rpm.

IMG_7500.jpg
 
sierrafery said:
i'd replace the injector copper washers if i was you
Click to expand...
I'd replace it for a Freelander :vb-bouncy:

Mine's got the same TD5 engine... less 1 cylinder... and the common rail gubbins.

For sure its slow, smokes like a steam train and sounds like a tractor... but it ooses 'character' :cool:... or maybe :rolleyes:

Sadly, very few L Series powered Freelanders on the road nowadays, especially in NZ.
 
NZ Pablo said:
Are they a part I can source individually or do they come with injectors!?
Click to expand...
You can get them seperately.

Get the copper washers and the o rings, genuine.

Genuine Land Rover Lower Sealing Washer - Injector - ERR6417

Order your Fuel Injector Sealing Washer Lower - ERR6417 - Genuine β›½ Low prices and fast, worldwide delivery ✈ British car experts β™š Call ☎ 01522 568000 or ☎ 1-855-746-2767
rimmerbros.com rimmerbros.com

Genuine Land Rover Upper Sealing Washer - Injector - ERR7004

Order your Fuel Injector Sealing Washer Upper - ERR7004 - Genuine β›½ Low prices and fast, worldwide delivery ✈ British car experts β™š Call ☎ 01522 568000 or ☎ 1-855-746-2767
rimmerbros.com rimmerbros.com

And maybe the camshaft cover gasket

Genuine Land Rover Camshaft Cover Gasket Td5 - ERR7094 | Rimmer Bros

Order your Camshaft Cover Gasket TD5 Early - ERR7094 - Genuine β›½ Low prices and fast, worldwide delivery ✈ British car experts β™š Call ☎ 01522 568000 or ☎ 1-855-746-2767
rimmerbros.com rimmerbros.com
or

Camshaft Cover Gasket - LVP000020 - Genuine

Order your Camshaft Cover Gasket TD5 Late - LVP000020 - Genuine β›½ Low prices and fast, worldwide delivery ✈ British car experts β™š Call ☎ 01522 568000 or ☎ 1-855-746-2767
rimmerbros.com rimmerbros.com

Edit:
This is a nifty spot to look for part numbers etc.

Search Genuine Land Rover Discovery 2 1998 - 2004 Classic (l318) Parts | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com
 
GrumpyGel said:
I'd replace it for a Freelander :vb-bouncy:

Mine's got the same TD5 engine... less 1 cylinder... and the common rail gubbins.
Click to expand...
I'd say you should get some serious psychological treatement if you compare a Td5 engine with a Td4 or 2.0d freelander engine ... my apologies, i couldn't help myself as to not react to such enormity.
 
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