Sam77

Member
So I'm fairly new here, I've got a D2 TD5. I'm 100% car/bike enthusiast. It's my main hobby, I waste all my time and money on it and rather than just storming out and throwing money at modulars and a lift, I'd like to get a rough list of priorities together. As gurus, what's REALLY worth spending the money on first? Right across the board whether it be improving O/R capability, road performance, fuel consumption, comfort, even just preventative precautions for in future. As much as I'd love a really mean looking Disco, I'm in no rush!
 
Hi,

I forget, did you get and make sure your EKA code worked?

Have you got a good diagnostic system , nanocom, hawkeye?

Have you got a second working keyfob?

OH, decat, de EGR, and then get Dynachip to remap it............:D:D:D

Cheers
 
A full chassis clean and treat.

Check all the metal hoses, all tend to leak, if rusty replace brake runs with cunifer and ACE runs with hydraulic hose.
 
Improving O/R capability, The Disco 2 is a fairly capable off-road vehicle as it is, but if it's a purpose built mud-plugger you're wanting then a Disco 2 Metropolis wouldn't be where most people would start from.
Road performance and fuel consumption, They really go together. The first thing to consider is that you've got a 2 1/2 ton steel box with all the aerodynamics of a concrete block and powered by a diesel engine. F1 it ain't, neither is it a miser with the fuel. Consumption will depend on how you drive it, expect to upset your bank manager if you start driving it like you stole it. You can improve the driveablity by getting the engine properly remapped. Removing the EGR, possibly washing out the intercooler and maybe replacing the inlet hoses could help with performance, but don't expect miracles. Do NOT even bother to try one of those bolt on, stick in, super-duper perfomance increasing tuning boxes, all they increase is the speed that money flows out of your pocket. They don't work, they are snake-oil.
Comfort, It's a Metropolis FFS, it's the top of the range! Unless the driver's seat springing has collapsed, it does happen, then there's little you can do to improve things, other than considering some nice blingy rally type seats. The suspension should be like driving on air, largely because you are and the cornering sway will be under control of the ACE.
Even just preventative precautions for in future. As others have already said, regular maintenance, including all fluids and filters is important, as is getting the underside steam cleaned, checked out, repaired where necessary and then protected with Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber products. check and re-apply as necessary every three to five years.
As @MJI has recommended, get the brake lines replaced with cunifer, it's even a job you could do yourself. The metal pipes used on the ACE system can and do rot, replacing them with hydraulic hoses is a good idea for the future life of the vehicle.
As @neilly has said, make sure that you have all of the security information that you should, that includes the EKA code, radio code, key identity number and also a working second fob. Make sure that you change the CR2032 battery in the fob every two years or so, don't wait until they fail, they're cheap enough. A Nanocom , Hawkeye or Lynx diagnostic code reader is a good idea too, especially if you intend to try to look after the Disco yourself. Don't get fooled by the online adverts for things like the iCar code reader, the only code readers for DIY that are known to work properly with the diesel Disco 2 are the three named above. Download a copy of RAVE which you'll find invaluable.
As much as I'd love a really mean looking Disco. As I and others have said, a Metropolis isn't really the right vehicle to start with, too many electronic circuits to go wrong when you get it wet. Your better bet would have been a 300Tdi Disco 1 with a Camel Trophy cut and steel bumpers as a starter vehicle.
The correct selection of tyres will help in both on and off road performance. Talk to a proper tyre specialist for ideas, depending on your expected use.
 
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D2s can look really smart just clean with a few minimal accessories and normal AT tyres.

I run road oriented AT tyres but never got it stuck, but do tend to avoid lanes when soggy as I do not want to be responsible for a shutting.
 
I would check the oil pump bolt, checked no e last week and while it was not loose it was nowhere near tight enough.
 
Thanks for all the replies folks! Much appreciated! I was always under the impression that EGR delete and a decat would just make it reek like mad? Which i'm not a fan of haha. I'm also going to look in to Nanocom or Hawkeye as 90% of any work on it's going to be done by myself
 
The P.O. of mine stuck on replacement springs, shocks, and tyres; effectively raising the wagon a good four inches; the tyres are Insa Turbo Ranger 265/70 R16, which are MUCH larger than the L/R supplied 255s; as a result, I had to turn out the lock stops, in order to prevent the inside of the tyres rubbing on the radius arms (and to pass the MoT as well!). If you do this, watch the heck out, as they've got a reputation for snapping if they get at all seized in their threads.
 
Thanks for all the replies folks! Much appreciated! I was always under the impression that EGR delete and a decat would just make it reek like mad? Which i'm not a fan of haha. I'm also going to look in to Nanocom or Hawkeye as 90% of any work on it's going to be done by myself
Not at all, maybe a tad when its cold with no wind and you're chilling behind it while running, but its very very worth it, I started with egr, then remap (dynachip), and then decat, kinda wish I swapped the order of the map and decat, it'll get better and better then the remap will completely top it off!
Get a nanocom if you can I think, I went for a second hand Hawkeye to save money, all these folks have nanos really. But the new Hawkeye total is unlocked for all landys and is the same style as the pro version, use mine all the time, and I don't even know its full capability
 

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