Coper is used coz it is malleable (Soft & bendy - bit like the missus
) and wont corrode as quick as steel. Stainless is a bugger to work with - next to impossible to do the double fold on brake pipes and steel - well thats original and thats the reason yu are replacing them.
) and wont corrode as quick as steel. Stainless is a bugger to work with - next to impossible to do the double fold on brake pipes and steel - well thats original and thats the reason yu are replacing them.eightinavee
Well-Known Member
Here you go; Brake Pipe Sets -
But in my experience you are better off buying the kit and making up your own.I used one of their kits on an 80" series one and ended up modifying it,same story on an E Type Jag last year.
But in my experience you are better off buying the kit and making up your own.I used one of their kits on an 80" series one and ended up modifying it,same story on an E Type Jag last year.
I posted recently about this, Ratty and myself did some pictures too
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/brake-pipes-156227.html
Not a howto, but more of what we did on ratty's LR
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/brake-pipes-156227.html
Not a howto, but more of what we did on ratty's LR
oxides
Well-Known Member
The MMart one works fine if you're careful - just don't overtighten the die, it's only copper you're deforming. I've made loads of pipes with mine and it's showing no sign of wear or distress. You can make bad flares if you don't do it on a straight section of the pipe or if you have the wrong amount of pipe sticking out of the stock.
1396midget
New Member
watch that U have cupro-nickel alloy pipe not pure copper, which apparently may fatigue and crack with obviously distressing results.
there was a point where you could buy pure copper pipe in brake pipe sizes, dunno if you still can tho.
there was a point where you could buy pure copper pipe in brake pipe sizes, dunno if you still can tho.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
ive used both for 30 years never heard of failure
