Again if rest of the car is good, do a full brake rebuild, parts like discs and calipers, pads, brake pipe isnโ€™t expensive and if you can do the work yourself it will save a lot, check rear brake back plates as they hold shoes in place for rear handbrake drum assembly (rear is a hybrid set up with discs for service brake and inner of the disc used as handbrake drum) anyway the retaining pins can pull through the back plate resulting in no handbrake or very little and scraping noise, mines gone on the two Rangies iv had but iv repairs it with washers, m5 machine screws and nylon nuts, doing this letโ€™s you keep the springs on the handbrake shoes to keep them nice agains back plate etc.
also check rest of it for rot, arches, rear sill corners, subframes, if all good clean and wax it until itโ€™s dripping out of everywhere.
 
f40cab said:
Ye that's kind of what I was thinking regards egr. Looking at corrosion on brake parts think this could be a full brake strip down calipers flexi solid lines. Not sure the calipers will bleed up with the old rusty nipples. I need to get underneath after xmas. Thank you again for all the help and advice. Cars been ok so.far few bits electrics but easy fix's.
Click to expand...

The brake lines on the later Rangies tend to rot where they're hidden by plastic trim. P38A tends to go where the lines pass over by the fuel tank.
 
Grrrrrr said:
The brake lines on the later Rangies tend to rot where they're hidden by plastic trim. P38A tends to go where the lines pass over by the fuel tank.
Click to expand...
Over the fuel tank? I don't remember that, mine passed alongside the tank and rotted where the bend is to go across above the axle behind the tank.
 
On mine, above the rear axle cross member they had died there... I replaced the whole of the rear sections including rubber pipes along with the chassis to body pipes as well. There are two connectors just in front of the drivers foot well (engine bay side)
The new sections were joined there ๐Ÿ‘
 
Mark Piercy said:
On mine, above the rear axle cross member they had died there... I replaced the whole of the rear sections including rubber pipes along with the chassis to body pipes as well. There are two connectors just in front of the drivers foot well (engine bay side)
The new sections were joined there ๐Ÿ‘
Click to expand...
Same as mine.
 
Datatek said:
Over the fuel tank? I don't remember that, mine passed alongside the tank and rotted where the bend is to go across above the axle behind the tank.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's the spot. Just visible above and slightly forward of the fuel tank.
 
Ok I got a spare 5 min, to look at it today. Got to find the proper way to jack it up. Started on the square black plastic bits but looked like it was moving the step so moved further down the front and went further under to chassis. Looked a stronger lift but wheel never lifted off floor, and airbag full stretch. So dont think its right dont want to damage air bags. But found that brake line had snapped clean off where it has a solid pipe to flex on the first part of rear pipe . So hopefully straight swap. Hows the flexi conector held into solid pipe bracket is it just a clip on the back of bracket?
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f40cab said:
Ok I got a spare 5 min, to look at it today. Got to find the proper way to jack it up. Started on the square black plastic bits but looked like it was moving the step so moved further down the front and went further under to chassis. Looked a stronger lift but wheel never lifted off floor, and airbag full stretch. So dont think its right dont want to damage air bags. But found that brake line had snapped clean off where it has a solid pipe to flex on the first part of rear pipe . So hopefully straight swap. Hows the flexi conector held into solid pipe bracket is it just a clip on the back of bracket? View attachment 305916
Click to expand...

I'd just replace the line all the way from the rear flexis to the front wheel arch (behind the liner). Job jone.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I'd just replace the line all the way from the rear flexis to the front wheel arch (behind the liner). Job jone.
Click to expand...
Are the lines running down passenger side under plastic. Few comments have said drivers side to a connector at front?
 
Grrrrrr said:
I'd just replace the line all the way from the rear flexis to the front wheel arch (behind the liner). Job jone.
Click to expand...
This is drivers rear side so is it a solid pipe line over to passenger side then they run down to front under cover?.
 
f40cab said:
Better explained of snapped pipe.
Click to expand...

Yes, those lines have had it.

Most of the time the line just pushes into the clip, from memory. Also from memory, they snap for fun but cable ties can be a friend in need.
 
f40cab said:
This is drivers rear side so is it a solid pipe line over to passenger side then they run down to front under cover?.
Click to expand...

It changes on the double exhaust cars. From memory the P38 rears go down behind the front wheel-arch, along the chassis rails and then on early cars they go across above the rear axle but then 1 goes back across on the axle itself. On later cars I think only one line goes across above the axle and the other just drops straight down to the driver's rear. Been a few years since I did mine.
 
Ok thank you it makes more sense now. Just the jacking up part to sort out now without damaging air bags ,thank you for all the input everyone.
 
f40cab said:
Ok thank you it makes more sense now. Just the jacking up part to sort out now without damaging air bags ,thank you for all the input everyone.
Click to expand...
You should not be able to damage the airbags by letting the axle hang unless the shocks are knackered, the height sensors on the other hand may pick up dirt on the track when the move beyond their normal range unless you are an off roader.
 
f40cab said:
Ok I got a spare 5 min, to look at it today. Got to find the proper way to jack it up. Started on the square black plastic bits but looked like it was moving the step so moved further down the front and went further under to chassis. Looked a stronger lift but wheel never lifted off floor, and airbag full stretch. So dont think its right dont want to damage air bags. But found that brake line had snapped clean off where it has a solid pipe to flex on the first part of rear pipe . So hopefully straight swap. Hows the flexi conector held into solid pipe bracket is it just a clip on the back of bracket? View attachment 305916
Click to expand...
If things are moving when you jack under that block you need to very carefully inspect the sills behind the covers as they rot for fun. If the sills are gone it might be time to cut your losses especially when you can get a very useable 07/08 model with a v8 diesel for under 2k now.
Don't worry about the airbags, they will hang hapilly and unless the bags are knackered anyway they won't catch any harm. You can't pull the bags off unless you disconnect part of the suspension like a shock absorber for example.
There was somebody making sill replacement panels but they have been out of stock for a while and if your body shop has to fab everything up it's a dear job.
 
Those lines do need changing bud. You are going about it the right way. Nothing wrong with a bit of caution especially holding that much weight above your head ๐Ÿ˜‰
 
Think it was @Flossie did a nice write up on line replacement??
It is a different vehicle but the principle of how he made them himself is exactly the same with plenty of pics and info about how to do it
 
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