jpor

Member
I've been on the lookout for a pre-01 4.6 V8, and as always there are comprimises to be made. I've found one with low owners, good service history and from a dealer for less than 2k.

The snag is that it has been converted to sit on coils. I am trying to budget for what would be involved in converting it back to EAS. There are other threads on this so will just use this to sanity check with the community as this is a system I have no knowledge over

Looks like I'll need
- height sensors (£70-80 used set ebay)
- airbags (~£260 Dunlop, more for Arnott)
- clips to secure rear air bags (£20)
- valve block and compressor (up to about £160 tested working ebay)
- EAS valve block exhaust silencer (not sure, does this come in the complete unit listed above?)
- air dryer (£25 used)

When I go to visit the car, are there any things I should look out for that would have caused irreversible damage that would render the reinstallation difficult?

Done smart looks to cost about £500, I guess I'd need to be saving about £700 to buy the equivalent coil converted P38 for it do be economically advantageous?
 
Often the Eas stops because the pump seals are worn due to it feeding leak often worn air bag and more often than not the pipes to the back melted from an exhaust leak
new plastic pipe is not expensive
so have a look at whats left on the car so people rip the lot out some leave the sensor, pump and valve block still there, so quick rebuild of pump and block a new drier they are cheap bags and see how it goes
budget also for some diag to reset eas preferably diag that will do the hole car ( Nanocom) is the go to p38`s are not obd compliant
there is lots of help on here to help you sort it but it may take a bit of time as it may throw up a few challenges.
 
If you have the vehicle check to see what’s been done to the becm (if it constantly says 35mph Max you may be okay). Some use connectors that can be plugged back original, some butcher them, some leave as is.
Also check you have an EAS ecu and all those bits there. They may have sold them to pay for the conversion if they are there intact great.
+1 new air dryer - refills and used are no good, new aren’t expensive but the parts it can mess up are

I’d get it on Dunlop airsprings with schrader valves for now so you know it stays up, then you have time to sort the electronic side of things
 
Clips to secure the rear bags are just large R clips, at £20 someone is having a laugh!!
Not sure what anyone else thinks, but if be cautious around second hand height sensors given the newest ones are still very old and well used
Agree with Kermit new clips couple of quid from island4x4 plus Dunlop bags as well. Bought all mine from them. Believe kurt is the guy to help with valve blocks and compressors. Be wary of buying from flea bay. Take the advice from the guys on here first.
Oh by the way welcome, you won't go far wrong on here
 
Depending what is present you may also need lines, reservoir, EAS ECU and driver pack. I suspect most was just left where it was though and a bypass loom fitted to get rid of the 35 mph max message.
 
Looks like I'll need
- height sensors (£70-80 used set ebay)
- airbags (~£260 Dunlop, more for Arnott)
- clips to secure rear air bags (£20)
- valve block and compressor (up to about £160 tested working ebay)
- EAS valve block exhaust silencer (not sure, does this come in the complete unit listed above?)
- air dryer (£25 used)
- EAS ECU (RQT100040)
- EAS Driver board (ANR3900)
- EAS "Relay" (ANR4652)

You might as well also change the air lines (6mm OD black air hose) and overhaul the valve block and compressor, even though they've been tested and working. There's a kit by X8R on ebay which includes the orings for the valvve block, the valve block diaphragm and the compressor overhaul kit- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-RO...979084&hash=item4ad7fcb640:g:-h0AAOSw5CRc0tBf

The airsprings are about £45 each at John Craddock where you'll also find a lot of the other bits you're after. https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk

Between ebay and John Craddock you'll find everything you'll need. I THINK you'll also need a EAS-capable diagnostic tool. I use a Faultmate MSV-2 from Blackbox Solutions but I think there's less expensive alternatives around nowadays. I think somebody will be along in a bit with a recommendation.

BEFORE you go buying anything, take a good look at the car and see what's already there. If it hasn't been "converted" by some unscrupulous bar steward, the bits should all still be there. Take a look under the bonnet at the EAS box and you should see the valve block, driver board and compressor. Then take a look under the front passenger seat (you'll have to remove a cover so bring along a nylon pry tool to undo the plastic pins that hold it in and you'll be able to see the EAS ECU and Relay. Finally crawl under the car and make sure the air reservoir is still there- about midway up the car on the right side.

If all the bits are there, then all you'll need to do (barring any problems with the wiring), is to rebuild the valve block and compressor with aforesaid X8R kit off ebay, change the height sensors, install the airsprings, change the air lines, use the diagnostic to clear whatever faults there are on there and set the ride heights and THEN you'll be ready to follow wammers' EAS toubleshooting guide in the Technical Archive to deal with whatever bugs are left. Chances are you'll need to replace the driver board too, but that can wait until you've got all the bits in and hooked up.

Looks like you're in for a fun winter!

Good luck!
 
Were you guys trying to scare him off??

I just did this last year. Had all the major bits still attached to the car. Really only needed the bags and sensors. That was $671USD OEM and brand new, shipped to my door from somewhere near your side of the pond. Including the R clips @ $2 or so a piece ;). So, the final cost has to be cheaper for you than it was for me.

The bags still needed some air though.. And my pump didnt really work.. So a pump rebuild was in order. Done and done... But then my valve block was slightly leaking.. So a block rebuild kit was in order. Okay, so now thats done. But my suspension still drops and dances around. So I re-open the block and swap the valves around...But, that wont work either since the +20 year old rubber valves have hardened. So, I make my own. Reinstall everything again and now shes been very happy. She still dances around sometimes but otherwise has the most supple suspension in any solid axle truck by far. And all that comfort for a little dancing, is just fine by me..

And this was the very short, sugar coated version of this story. Feel free to look up my previous posts for the full explicit version. If you dare...

Okay....now that should scare him off for good:p
 
Dont buy the cheap height sensors, get the Dunlop part. Cheap sensors can equal early failure and pumps running on and off while it lifts and drops. Known as dancing as the ecu will try to follow the height sensors if they twitch and will lift and lower almost constantly, even on the road. ;)
 
Dont buy the cheap height sensors, get the Dunlop part. Cheap sensors can equal early failure and pumps running on and off while it lifts and drops. Known as dancing as the ecu will try to follow the height sensors if they twitch and will lift and lower almost constantly, even on the road. ;)
+1

Height sensors are not worth saving money on. There's no backup so when they fail, 9 times out of 10 you'll be stuck with a hard faulted EAS.

Oh... a set of Schrader valves- always carry a set of 4 in the car for when the height sensors DO fail. Don't be like me and get caught with just 3.
 
Were you guys trying to scare him off??

I just did this last year. Had all the major bits still attached to the car. Really only needed the bags and sensors. That was $671USD OEM and brand new, shipped to my door from somewhere near your side of the pond. Including the R clips @ $2 or so a piece ;). So, the final cost has to be cheaper for you than it was for me.

The bags still needed some air though.. And my pump didnt really work.. So a pump rebuild was in order. Done and done... But then my valve block was slightly leaking.. So a block rebuild kit was in order. Okay, so now thats done. But my suspension still drops and dances around. So I re-open the block and swap the valves around...But, that wont work either since the +20 year old rubber valves have hardened. So, I make my own. Reinstall everything again and now shes been very happy. She still dances around sometimes but otherwise has the most supple suspension in any solid axle truck by far. And all that comfort for a little dancing, is just fine by me..

And this was the very short, sugar coated version of this story. Feel free to look up my previous posts for the full explicit version. If you dare...

Okay....now that should scare him off for good:p
I had a bit of dancing many years ago,changing the driver pack sorted it, wether it was the pack or a poor connection in the plugs I never went any further when it was solved.:D
 
I wouldn't go spending money to replace anything that is still on the car until I knew it didn't work. You might just need air bags and your good. If that does not do the trick you start troubleshooting. As for not buying used parts on eBay, I don't think you will want to buy a brand new valve block for over a $1,000 if that is missing. These are easy to rebuild. Same for the compressor. You can also get seal kits from 4x4airseals.com. I have used them with good results. Good luck.
 
Thanks for all your replies on this one - fortunately it turns out the seller was mistaken and it does have air suspension still! That's very good for me, information on here still really useful in terms of what to replace/rebuild components with when they look to have reached end of life. I'm picking it up on 30th January which is still permitted under lockdown I've read :)
 
Thanks for all your replies on this one - fortunately it turns out the seller was mistaken and it does have air suspension still! That's very good for me, information on here still really useful in terms of what to replace/rebuild components with when they look to have reached end of life. I'm picking it up on 30th January which is still permitted under lockdown I've read :)
Oh brilliant!

Sure- go pick her up on the 30th and tell us how it went.

Take pics too! A selfie in front of the car at delivery and then at 10 day intervals.

We like to watch as the expression changes from excitement and happiness, to good natured face palming in an "oh well I was warned about this" way, to surprise that it really IS as bad as you were told, to frustration, anger, tyre kicking rage and finally a sort of sullen bloody mindedness to keep the damned thing running no matter what.

That's the kind of thing we live for.

Good luck and enjoy!

We sure will.

:D
 
Oh brilliant!

Sure- go pick her up on the 30th and tell us how it went.

Take pics too! A selfie in front of the car at delivery and then at 10 day intervals.

We like to watch as the expression changes from excitement and happiness, to good natured face palming in an "oh well I was warned about this" way, to surprise that it really IS as bad as you were told, to frustration, anger, tyre kicking rage and finally a sort of sullen bloody mindedness to keep the damned thing running no matter what.

That's the kind of thing we live for.

Good luck and enjoy!

We sure will.

:D

:D I look forward to it!
 
Thanks for all your replies on this one - fortunately it turns out the seller was mistaken and it does have air suspension still! That's very good for me, information on here still really useful in terms of what to replace/rebuild components with when they look to have reached end of life. I'm picking it up on 30th January which is still permitted under lockdown I've read :)
Bonus,enjoy.
 
Were you guys trying to scare him off??

.......... But my suspension still drops and dances around. So I re-open the block and swap the valves around...But, that wont work either since the +20 year old rubber valves have hardened. So, I make my own. ...............

What did you use to replace the hardened rubber in the valves /
 

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