nick2303

nick2303

Well-Known Member
biting point on clutch has been gettin lower and lower over last few weeks..

only really noticed as its started to get difficult getting 1st gear when stationary.. gotta push the pedal into the floor really hard..

ive just bled the slave cylinder and its made no difference..

am i looking at the clutch fork next?

anything else i can check?
 
nope...

biting point less than an inch from floor..

top half of pedal press, there is no resistance, 2nd half of travel feels firm...
 
Get in there and change the fork and the release bearing before it lets you down. Easy enough job especialy if you have another pair of hands.
 
It's not that hard a job but you may want to check the clutch to Or just replace it when your there

Fork is about £15

Clutch is about 60

And it's about 3-4 hours labour
 
doubt its the fork, pedal would go hard as slave bottoms out on bellhousing.
guess either air in it or fooked master cylinder seals.

sound inversly proportional to mine- within an inch of the top of pedal travel.
need to sort out swapping clutch afore it packs in completely.
 
well i've just driven 20 mile to a gig and it seems a bit better...

could just be dodgy fluid in need of a change ..

gonna drain tmos and fill with new and bleed..

will let ya kno how i get on..

i've warned defender11069 that his assistant may be appreciated monday if i have to get gearbox out..

fingers crossed fluid change sorts it...

and snorkel to fit too, its all go aint it....

thanks for all info...
 
nick2303 said:
well i've just driven 20 mile to a gig and it seems a bit better...

could just be dodgy fluid in need of a change ..

gonna drain tmos and fill with new and bleed..

will let ya kno how i get on..

i've warned defender11069 that his assistant may be appreciated monday if i have to get gearbox out..

fingers crossed fluid change sorts it...

and snorkel to fit too, its all go aint it....

thanks for all info...
Click to expand...
just a phone call away mate
 
I am with nrgserv on this, doubt it is the fork yet.I would go with master cylinder,piston is not returning to top of bore,hence no pedal until halfway.Change master or use eezibleed with a bit of preesure to force piston back to top of bore and see if it improves.Fork never gets better
icon10.gif
 
biolandy said:
I am with nrgserv on this, doubt it is the fork yet.I would go with master cylinder,piston is not returning to top of bore,hence no pedal until halfway.Change master or use eezibleed with a bit of preesure to force piston back to top of bore and see if it improves.Fork never gets better
icon10.gif
Click to expand...
pistons attached to pedal so as long as pedal is returning to top, piston should be too.
worn bore on cylinder could give symptoms, as fluid passes seals.
if clutch regulary used round top of pedal then excessive wear at front of cylinder bore. decent bore lower down hence it works better.
or air.
nick, if you want workshop with ramps to remove box, its probably available after 20th may if you can manage that long.
(my mot round then so i'll be about as well if needed)
 
cant get bolts undone, it keeps piddlin it down, its freezin, i've had 4 hrs sleep...

not in the mood now..

pee'd off,

painted mi new airbox n rear ladder instead cos i can do that inside..

goin for a nap as workin again tonite..
 
Hi Nick did you get to the bottom of your clutch woes? I am having
exactly symptoms. When driving I can change gear with no problems
whatsoever, but I have to push the clutch pedal right to the floor
and the pedal does not return, I have to put my foot under the pedal
and lift it up to get the pedal to return to the correct position.
When I am stationary I find it hard to get it into gear, this has happened
over the past few days.

Cheers
Kieron
 
oh well... i now have no clutch at all.. :mad:

on way to work this mornin, pedal went to floor and stayed there.. :(

managed to get to work without using clutch after startin in gear.. :eek:

need to get slave cylinder off to see how much of actuator bar is showing outside bell housing.. cant get slave off as someone put a rounded bolt back in at some point.. :mad:

now i'm gonna have to get a set of them irwin bolt grips to get it out.. :hurt:
 
nick2303 said:
oh well... i now have no clutch at all.. :mad:

on way to work this mornin, pedal went to floor and stayed there.. :(

managed to get to work without using clutch after startin in gear.. :eek:

need to get slave cylinder off to see how much of actuator bar is showing outside bell housing.. cant get slave off as someone put a rounded bolt back in at some point.. :mad:

now i'm gonna have to get a set of them irwin bolt grips to get it out.. :hurt:
Click to expand...


It sounds to me like your clutch fork has just gone. Might be a good time to get a reinforced one in stock.
 
yeah, does to me too...

need to get slave off to check though..

and will need to get slave off to do fork anyway...
 
so i've tried to get clutch slave cylinder off and bottom bolt has been rounded..

so i got a set of irwin bolt grip nut extractors, an all they did was chew more of head away..

think someone has welded the dam thing in there, it will not budge, at all..

need to get some heat on it next but i aint got no oxy-cetaline so what can i get it hot with? are the aerosol powered plumbers blow lamps any use?

only other thing i can think of is welding a bigger nut onto whats left of the 10mm head..

can anyone offer any other suggestions...

please, clutch gone and need to get mi disco back on the road asap...
 
Mines has just done the same, the slave had gone but I had no leak, I had lack of fluid, so I took the slave off and felt inside the bellhousing and a found puddle, the seal had turned to mush. (It had only been on 10 years.)
 
nick2303 said:
so i've tried to get clutch slave cylinder off and bottom bolt has been rounded..

so i got a set of irwin bolt grip nut extractors, an all they did was chew more of head away..

think someone has welded the dam thing in there, it will not budge, at all..

need to get some heat on it next but i aint got no oxy-cetaline so what can i get it hot with? are the aerosol powered plumbers blow lamps any use?

only other thing i can think of is welding a bigger nut onto whats left of the 10mm head..

can anyone offer any other suggestions...

please, clutch gone and need to get mi disco back on the road asap...
Click to expand...

The wee propane tourches are handy used them a couple of times to get things out, won't get it white hot but should get it hot enough to get it moving.
 
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