nick2303
Well-Known Member
woohoo!!!!!
got that chuffin bolt out!
welded a nut on to it.. think the heat helped..
bad news followed!!
the actuator rod, connected to the clutch fork, can be pushed in and pulled out to its full length.. its still attached to the fork but the fork aint moving the clutch...
new clutch fork me thinks...
so tonite ive removed centre consol, both props, gearbox mounts and cracked all but one of the bell housing nuts..
need another extension for my socket set...
gearbox almost ready to slide back tmoz..
got that chuffin bolt out!
welded a nut on to it.. think the heat helped..
bad news followed!!
the actuator rod, connected to the clutch fork, can be pushed in and pulled out to its full length.. its still attached to the fork but the fork aint moving the clutch...
new clutch fork me thinks...
so tonite ive removed centre consol, both props, gearbox mounts and cracked all but one of the bell housing nuts..
need another extension for my socket set...
gearbox almost ready to slide back tmoz..
nick2303
Well-Known Member
Cheers m8... Got some extre muscle comin to help tonite...
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
If I remember correctly when I did one of ours:
1. Removed the exhaust and rear prop, for working room, both gear lever and the centre console;
2. The we put a trolley jack under the gearbox, removed the gearbox mounts either side.
3. Bear in mind the engine will be tilted, so we then put another trolley jack under the front of it - if you don't the engine will fall forwards on it's mounts, not good!!
3. Once all the all the bellhousing fixings were undone, we simply rolled the 'box backwards and rested it on the rear crossmember. This give about 10inches of space to replace the fork easily.
I reckon it's deffo a two handed job.
threaded rod makes life a little harder than using bolts with their heads cut off - bolts just have a section of thread, the remainder is smooth allowing the box to be slid along far easier - chop the head off and cut a slot in the top to get a screwdriver into
M10, but don't order anything until someone else confirms that
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
To be honest, I didn't use any. The engine remained exactly at the right angle so when I rolled the 'box forward onto it, it just went straight.
I seem to recall that I left the gearbox in gear, so that it would remain lined up, while I replaced the fork. I believe I also put some copper grease grease on the main gearbox shaft so it would slide in easily (ooooh errrr missus
)For me the best thing was stripping away lots of stuff so that we had real working room.
Dave
nick2303
Well-Known Member
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
probably just weak fork
