sp00k

sp00k

Well-Known Member
Hi,

Experiencing some slight clutch slip in my 110. Always between 2000-2300 revs in 4th gear which is probably at the point of highest boost and most stress/strain.

It stabilises after a couple of seconds. When it first started a couple of weeks ago, I found it hard to reproduce. Now I can reproduce on demand.

Can this be caused by poor master cylinder adjustment (I replaced all the clutch hydraulics about 6 months ago) or can it only be caused by clutch plate contamination or wear.

Thanks.
 
ive known poor adjustment cause the slave to remain partially pressurised,noticeable by a little pedal causing more slip,its unlikely contamination unless its soaked in the bell housing ,usually it is the clutch itself
 
Can be either or both, check the adjustment first, the clutch has obviously worn a bit now you can do it on demand, whether that means the clutch was 90% ok and is now only 60% ok, or it was 30% ok and is now toast will require more looking

Was there any particular reason to doing all the hydraulics or was it just through caution?
 
The lightest touch of the pedal disengages the clutch.

I did all the hydraulics, including the flexi because the clutch fork had punched through causing the slave to pop.

I did not check the clutch condition at that time.
 
sp00k said:
The lightest touch of the pedal disengages the clutch.

I did all the hydraulics, including the flexi because the clutch fork had punched through causing the slave to pop.

I did not check the clutch condition at that time.
Click to expand...
slacken off at the m/c rod a few trurns and try that
 
Fast forward, this problem has been gradually getting worse. I had a fiddle around with the pedal adjustment, but I think it was fine to start with. Since I 'adjusted it' the slip seemed to get worse and then it felt as if the clutch would let go at any second.

So I parked up for a few weeks. Today I pulled the gearbox and the clutch actually looks reasonable. I compared it with my new one and there's only about a mm difference.

Is it worth pulling the flywheel to check the rear crank seal? The clutch is not dripping with oil but it does leave a mark on gloves.
 
id be surprised if there was oil on the clutch plate etc if its not the hydraulics it must be clutch itself
 
Interesting as mine does the same. Ive blamed the fact that mine is blowing oil everywhere with warn rings and assumed that mine is pushing oil through the rear Crank seal, I'd change it as you have the box out at the minute already. Mine was a new clutch only a few thousand miles ago so I doubt it's that for mine.
 
Could the master cylinder cause these symptoms? I'll be changing the clutch anyway, but it's actually hard to tell the difference between old and new, they are so similar.
 
My engine is covered in oil. There is a fair leak somewhere and it's been running down the back as well.
 
sp00k said:
Could the master cylinder cause these symptoms? I'll be changing the clutch anyway, but it's actually hard to tell the difference between old and new, they are so similar.
Click to expand...
it often does ,in that fluid doesnt return fully so some pressure is left on the clutch,adjusting the master cylinder rod can help that ,more noticeable in situations were you press the pedal frequently, leading to pedal needing little pressing before slip,though a worn clutch plate or weak spring in clutch cover is a usual cause of high pedal
 
Keep us updated spook because I have very simular issues myself and I'd like to know your outcome buddy.
 
Will do. The flywheel surface was clean. I'll take some pics tomorrow. I'm going to order a new MC as well.
 
I've not been able to sort any pics out as my phone has been broken, but I'll be able to get some at the weekend.

The clutch looks to be worn by (at most) about 1mm each side - I would have thought that would leave plenty of meat on it?

There is no evidence of oil on the clutch material or flywheel but there is a small amount of oil + clutch dust slurry in the centre of the flywheel where around the indentation where the flywheel bolts sit. If the rear crank seal fails, does the oil go down the back of the flywheel or can it come through the centre where the bolts are? Is a small amount 'normal'?

There's so much oil around the engine it's difficult to see what's what but I've always had a slight leak from the large seal between the engine and the flywheel housing. I replaced that seal when I installed the engine but it's leaked from day 1. What's the usual cause of this - and remedy?

I've ordered a rear crank seal just in case but I would rather not interfere with it unless necessary. I've also ordered a replacement master cylinder.
 
New seals come with the little tool to install them, i took the risk once and paid the price when I started the truck up and got drip drip drip from the flywheel casing straight away. Change it for peace of mind mate
 
Hopefully not too late to say don't bother with cheap master cylinders, they don't last. £23 for a genuine one from Paddocks.
 
I went for a lucas/trw one which was about that price. I think they were OEM. Last one was a delphI which was not cheap.
 
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All the goodies have arrived, now I just need the time to do the job :)

Am I correct in thinking that the only way of replacing the rear crank seal is flywheel housing off as per WSM?

My disco engine has the very large gasket between the flywheel housing and the engine block. There always seems to be a leak here, even though I replaced it with new when I installed it. Wondering if it's worth ditching it and replacing with a bead of RTV?
 
Got the flywheel off before and there's no evidence of oil behind it. Rear crank seal looks good. Thoughts anyone?
 
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