Flossie
Well-Known Member
I've also made a special adjustment tool which I would have suggested if it was out of spec. Sounds like the spigot might be the culprit then, I say might cos that's a pita compared to changing / adjusting stuff.
At least you haven't put it all back together yet so not tons of work to pull the box again.
At least you haven't put it all back together yet so not tons of work to pull the box again.
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
I hope it isn't the spigot too as that would be a pain after what you have done so far. Not being able to select a gear with the engine running and being able to with it stopped is the classic symptom of clutch drag (whether that is the actual clutch, release mechanism or spigot bush is another question). However it can also be caused by the baulk rings as they perform a sort of clutch slipping type of action in the syncro hubs to get the gears aligned so they can be engage easily. If the box was ok before it was removed then wear shouldn't be an issue, however they do need oil in the gearbox to perform correctly. I suppose what that load of typing actually boils down to is did you drain the oil from the gearbox before you removed it, or more importantly did you refill it?
sp00k
Well-Known Member
That's a very kind offer Robbie. I'm in Washington, so a bit far for you, but I do have people around me who can give a hand. It's that usual story of squeezing in a bit of time here and there between work, so it's difficult to get organised. My garage is tiny and full of crap so it takes about an hour to get the crane out and back in.
I did some reading and found other people who'd had similar problems with new clutches in defenders. Some said that it improved with driving and went away after a couple of days, so I went for a half hour drive tonight. There was a couple of occasions where I could not get 3rd but the rest of it was not terrible, not anything I would want to live with long term of course. I get a proper grind with reverse which is to be expected under the circumstances without the syncro, so for now I'll kill the engine before selecting it.
So before doing anything else, I'll give it a few good runs over the next couple of days, let it all bed in and see if there's any improvement. It's worth a shot
I did some reading and found other people who'd had similar problems with new clutches in defenders. Some said that it improved with driving and went away after a couple of days, so I went for a half hour drive tonight. There was a couple of occasions where I could not get 3rd but the rest of it was not terrible, not anything I would want to live with long term of course. I get a proper grind with reverse which is to be expected under the circumstances without the syncro, so for now I'll kill the engine before selecting it.
So before doing anything else, I'll give it a few good runs over the next couple of days, let it all bed in and see if there's any improvement. It's worth a shot
IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
happy days nearly then. if it beds in are we assuming that the spiot bush is a real tight fit onto the input shaft of the gearbox? I have to fit mine some time in the next month when I can get some spare time to finish this engine and get it in, Ive read to soak the new bush in oil however I recall you saying the havnt fitted a new spigot bush so it cant be too tight on the input can it? hmmmm
sp00k
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I did not fit a new one Robbie but may have damaged it on 'entry' Trailfinder has a decent video on the clutch where he shows a good trick for removing the old spigot using hydraulic pressure. He also recommended filing around the spigot to remove any burrs. If I had done that, I would probably be laughing now. I'm just going to drive it for a couple of days and see how I get on. Gears felt a little easier today but still getting a grind going for reverse.
Trailfinder has a decent video on the clutch where he shows a good trick for removing the old spigot using hydraulic pressure. He also recommended filing around the spigot to remove any burrs. If I had done that, I would probably be laughing now. I'm just going to drive it for a couple of days and see how I get on. Gears felt a little easier today but still getting a grind going for reverse.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
Changed slave as well. Bled several times, including a reverse bleed.
Pedal feels slightly spongy at the beginning but then firm.
Same problem as before, clutch works fine for setting off and stopping but won't change gear with engine running, at least not without a massive fight.
Once warmed up on the road, the problem lessens but does not go away.
Engaging reverse with engine on is only possible with a crunch.
Pedal feels slightly spongy at the beginning but then firm.
Same problem as before, clutch works fine for setting off and stopping but won't change gear with engine running, at least not without a massive fight.
Once warmed up on the road, the problem lessens but does not go away.
Engaging reverse with engine on is only possible with a crunch.
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Another couple of ideas, ok wild guesses actually, did you change the release arm or rod (the one between the slave and arm)? I know the rod comes in a couple of different lengths and there are a couple of different versions of the arm. I don't know if the wrong ones from a different gearbox would fit if they were incorrectly ordered / supplied, but if they are slightly different sizes / length then the amount of distance the release bearing moves could be different? Like I say a bit of a wild guess
IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
Sp00k when I changed the bulkhead on mine for a td5 one I jacked the front end up to do the clutch because my pedal was spongy at first, it ****ed out all over me and when I read about it apparently you jack the front end up to get the fluid to flow down, you don't have this problem, the answer to my problem of the spongey start of the clutch was the adjuster on the clutch master? at the top drivers side, I had to adjust the bolt and nut to get my pedal just right, maybe the travel you have to start off with isn't pushing the release bearing close enough?
sp00k
Well-Known Member
Some good news. I'm not sure which did it but the combination of jacking up and jamming the pedal bled that last bit of air. With the pedal nicely firm I now have enough clutch operation to select all forward gears without catching. That is with the pedal adjustment almost fully to the end of the thread. I'm still getting a slight catch on reverse but there is still a small amount of adjustment left in the pedal position, so I will adjust it out - this means it will be at the furthest end of the threads.
My working theory is that the new pressure plate is so hard to push that it needed a new slave.
I also have a small shim plate on the slave (which has always been present). I would say it's about 1.5mm thick. If necessary, I can also remove this but I would like to leave it in place as it's supposed to be there.
My working theory is that the new pressure plate is so hard to push that it needed a new slave.
I also have a small shim plate on the slave (which has always been present). I would say it's about 1.5mm thick. If necessary, I can also remove this but I would like to leave it in place as it's supposed to be there.
