Reckon you'll get 50% replies saying change it and 50% leave it alone. My own thoughts are if it ain't broken don't fix it - unless its done a fair mileage, change it while you are in there. Bit of a brexit vote this one.
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
Hi sp00k
Had to do mine about 3 years ago ! Nothing wrong with the clutch plate
But the pressure plate was crackerd
when you stripped it down I bet you didn't notice how much the fingers on the pressure plate came out when you undid the bolts ??
Had to do mine about 3 years ago ! Nothing wrong with the clutch plate
But the pressure plate was crackerd when you stripped it down I bet you didn't notice how much the fingers on the pressure plate came out when you undid the bolts ??
sp00k
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Any particular reason (just trying to increase my mechanical understanding).
Flossie
Well-Known Member
I was assuming you intended using a flange nut with no washer? That is what they are ideal for in certain applications.
If you used a spring washer under a flanged nut that would be OK IF you had enough stud length to accommodate.
You need a spring washer because if the nuts slack off a bit you'll lose your clutch.
If you used a spring washer under a flanged nut that would be OK IF you had enough stud length to accommodate.
You need a spring washer because if the nuts slack off a bit you'll lose your clutch.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
All back together with new clutch. Replaced master cylinder. Can't engage any gears with engine running. Can force 3rd and 4th but very notchy going in. Can change easily with engine off.
When letting the clutch up in gear, the take up is very smooth and clutch action feels normal. Clutch pedal is firm.
It's as if the clutch is not operating quite enough. I've force bled the system twice with an easy bleed.
Any advice please?
When letting the clutch up in gear, the take up is very smooth and clutch action feels normal. Clutch pedal is firm.
It's as if the clutch is not operating quite enough. I've force bled the system twice with an easy bleed.
Any advice please?
sp00k
Well-Known Member
I renewed the fork (wth HD one) flexi pipe, slave and master about a year ago.
This time around, I've changed the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and master cylinder. The only parts I've not changed are the slave and master cylinder.
You're going to say it's the slave The flexi moves very slightly when the pedal is depressed but it does not bulge.
This time around, I've changed the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and master cylinder. The only parts I've not changed are the slave and master cylinder.
You're going to say it's the slave
The flexi moves very slightly when the pedal is depressed but it does not bulge.
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Did you change the spigot bush in the end of the crank (the bit the gearbox input shaft slides in to)? If you did and it was a tight fit, or not soaked in oil before it was fitted, then there may be enough friction for the crank to turn the gearbox with the clutch pedal fully depressed. That may make selection difficult when running. If you didn't replace it then it should be fine unless you somehow gouged it getting the box out or in.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
Good call Kwakerman. You might be onto something there. I hope your wrong though. I did have a bit of a fight getting the gearbox back so damaging the spigot is a possibility. I did not change it. Come to think of it, there was one in the clutch kit but I forgot about it
The bit that's missing at the moment is that when I dip the clutch, I can still hear the gearbox rotating. I'm pretty sure that's also the case with the T Box in N and the main gearbox in various gears.
The bit that's missing at the moment is that when I dip the clutch, I can still hear the gearbox rotating. I'm pretty sure that's also the case with the T Box in N and the main gearbox in various gears.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Take the cover, 6 screws, off the master under the bonnet.
Get someone to work the clutch while you observe how it works, you need the pushrod to move almost straight away, as soon as the pedal moves. You do need a little play but not much at all, if you have too much the pedal can't push the piston in the master far enough to fully disengage the clutch. Adjusting it is fiddly though but easier with two people. Anyways, check that out first cos it's easy and free!
Get someone to work the clutch while you observe how it works, you need the pushrod to move almost straight away, as soon as the pedal moves. You do need a little play but not much at all, if you have too much the pedal can't push the piston in the master far enough to fully disengage the clutch. Adjusting it is fiddly though but easier with two people. Anyways, check that out first cos it's easy and free!
