lorri789
Well-Known Member
Okay, all fixed in and turned the key......no spark.
I traced the white wire back to a join and then it doubles back to a connector and then turns into a blue\white which goes to fuse C3. This is what the ignition switch connects to. So....could it be the ignition switch? What test is there for the switch?
I'm getting max voltage on both the + and the - on the coil with the ignition turned on.
I traced the white wire back to a join and then it doubles back to a connector and then turns into a blue\white which goes to fuse C3. This is what the ignition switch connects to. So....could it be the ignition switch? What test is there for the switch?
I'm getting max voltage on both the + and the - on the coil with the ignition turned on.
Pete The Biker
Active Member
I have found some documents about the 3.5 EFI system and fault-finding process - they might help (or at least give you some ideas) though I appreciate yours isn't a 3.5.
Good luck
Pete
Good luck
Pete
Speckydude
Well-Known Member
Another layer of theft deterrent.
Jonnyb1990
Well-Known Member
stupid thought, whats the charge in the battery ?
lorri789
Well-Known Member
The battery was tested as fine, but not perfect. Everything works at pos 2..blower. lights, etc. There has to be something going on between the blue white wire and fuse c3 or from the ignition switch onwards. That's the task for today.
Silly question, but is there a relation of the tacho wire to the coil. I assumed earlier models had something, but later models do not.
My tacho comes of the alternator.
Silly question, but is there a relation of the tacho wire to the coil. I assumed earlier models had something, but later models do not.
My tacho comes of the alternator.
Looking at the circuit diagram, it goes through splice S264 which would go to the Diesel components, then connector C108, then another splice at S105 which goes to the coil and the iggy amp.
Have you checked connector C108 for any signs of corrosion?
You could also setup a fly lead with a 10A fuse in-line direct from the battery to the iggy amp and also to the coil to bypass the White/Blue wire from fuse C3 in the dash fuse box.
Have you measured the voltage at Fuse C3 and then also at the end of the wire at the iggy amp or coil and see if there is any variance in the voltage readings as this could indicate issues?
Tacho wire -
Looking at the 1992 wiring diagram it doesn't show the coonection via a resistor to the speed module, the 1993 wiring diagram does show this. It appears to go to the speed trip module (Z164) which is not listed in the circuit operation description - I am not 100% sure what this does or is for....I know the ECU gets an engine running signal from the coil in the later models but not 100% sure!
Have you seen this document - not sure if it is applicable to your setup, but worth a read, you may pick up on something
lorri789
Well-Known Member
To continue: I have 12v on fatty white wire at ignition switch. Said wire runs in to the main loom to the right and I assume it twists back towards the fuse box on the left. Hmm.
Tell me, what is the big pile of black wires that run in to a connector that's bolted to an earth on the side wall at the kick panel? Is it just a bunch of earths?
On the fuse panel, fuse c4 is the fuse for Petrol Injection Unit and Petrol Pump Relay, or so the handbook says. It reads bugger all on the meter.
12v at the EFI relay.....
Tell me, what is the big pile of black wires that run in to a connector that's bolted to an earth on the side wall at the kick panel? Is it just a bunch of earths?
On the fuse panel, fuse c4 is the fuse for Petrol Injection Unit and Petrol Pump Relay, or so the handbook says. It reads bugger all on the meter.
12v at the EFI relay.....
cooltide
sheep fancier
Have you done the series of tests described in rave?
Pete The Biker
Active Member
Try this to test the coil itself https://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-detail/ignition-coils/maintenance/diagnosis/
Pete
Pete
