Flossie
Well-Known Member
Nah, his map pipe was broke, leak offs were leaking(I've fixed them now) but it still went well with those issues.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Actually...I believe the chip just plugs in? No soldering?
Could just swop them out?
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
If you swap the ecu the ems code will need writing to match, the ecu i opened up the chips just plug in might be worth having a look it may well have some thing on it to say its chipped
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Soldered in on my standard ECU.
@Flossie maybe compare yours to the DSE specs here ?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Not sure I would rely on the accuracy of those specs, the P38 does not have a De Dion rear axle
Possibly something else not right and it is chucking in more fuel than it should?
My manual is pretty sprightly, way better than the auto I have.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Remember I told you to get a non egr manual - now you know why less nonsense in the mix.
Plus early ones were constructed by LR craftsmen, later ones cobbled together by bmw agency boys doing xtra shifts to pay for the **** up night before whilst clearing the D2 spares out of the new L322 bays
If yours was pushing out what it’s capable of your thread would be titled ‘how do I get more fuel economy?’
With autos condition of the box is big one on power so I have a manual.
My P38 is 27 now and much is original. Tired injectors, FIP, transmission, turbo all add up I know from others here if you put new injectors in one at a time you can feel small difference every one you replace. Ive not needed new ones.
I know when it’s service time as I lose mpg, throttle response and power - always got foot flat - shouldn’t be like that.
These engines are used on touring cars can push out fair bit - more than your engine will handle. They don’t run on veg oil mind
Eventually you’ll notice everyone’s here is different and there’s pros & cons to everything, but everything I learned I learned here. Take interest in others methods/vehicles and you’ll notice some subtle and some bizarre differences to yours/OE
less nonsense in the mix. Plus early ones were constructed by LR craftsmen, later ones cobbled together by bmw agency boys doing xtra shifts to pay for the **** up night before whilst clearing the D2 spares out of the new L322 bays
If yours was pushing out what it’s capable of your thread would be titled ‘how do I get more fuel economy?’
With autos condition of the box is big one on power so I have a manual.
My P38 is 27 now and much is original. Tired injectors, FIP, transmission, turbo all add up I know from others here if you put new injectors in one at a time you can feel small difference every one you replace. Ive not needed new ones.
I know when it’s service time as I lose mpg, throttle response and power - always got foot flat - shouldn’t be like that.
These engines are used on touring cars can push out fair bit - more than your engine will handle. They don’t run on veg oil mind
Eventually you’ll notice everyone’s here is different and there’s pros & cons to everything, but everything I learned I learned here. Take interest in others methods/vehicles and you’ll notice some subtle and some bizarre differences to yours/OE
+1 to our mate ère!Remember I told you to get a non egr manual - now you know why
Plus early ones were constructed by LR craftsmen, later ones cobbled together by bmw agency boys doing xtra shifts to pay for the **** up night before whilst clearing the D2 spares out of the new L322 bays
If yours was pushing out what it’s capable of your thread would be titled ‘how do I get more fuel economy?’
With autos condition of the box is big one on power so I have a manual.
My P38 is 27 now and much is original. Tired injectors, FIP, transmission, turbo all add up I know from others here if you put new injectors in one at a time you can feel small difference every one you replace. Ive not needed new ones.
I know when it’s service time as I lose mpg, throttle response and power - always got foot flat - shouldn’t be like that.
These engines are used on touring cars can push out fair bit - more than your engine will handle. They don’t run on veg oil mind
Eventually you’ll notice everyone’s here is different and there’s pros & cons to everything, but everything I learned I learned here. Take interest in others methods/vehicles and you’ll notice some subtle and some bizarre differences to yours/OE
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Post 99 cars are much better than the early ones made to British Leyland standardsRemember I told you to get a non egr manual - now you know why
Plus early ones were constructed by LR craftsmen, later ones cobbled together by bmw agency boys doing xtra shifts to pay for the **** up night before whilst clearing the D2 spares out of the new L322 bays
If yours was pushing out what it’s capable of your thread would be titled ‘how do I get more fuel economy?’
With autos condition of the box is big one on power so I have a manual.
My P38 is 27 now and much is original. Tired injectors, FIP, transmission, turbo all add up I know from others here if you put new injectors in one at a time you can feel small difference every one you replace. Ive not needed new ones.
I know when it’s service time as I lose mpg, throttle response and power - always got foot flat - shouldn’t be like that.
These engines are used on touring cars can push out fair bit - more than your engine will handle. They don’t run on veg oil mind
Eventually you’ll notice everyone’s here is different and there’s pros & cons to everything, but everything I learned I learned here. Take interest in others methods/vehicles and you’ll notice some subtle and some bizarre differences to yours/OE
There are plenty of the later 38's that go through front diffs. Unless it's just careless owners.Post 99 cars are much better than the early ones made to British Leyland standards
Post 99 cars are much better than the early ones made to British Leyland standards
Seem to have more ABS issues, DSP amp issues and sunroof drain issues on later ones.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Have no sunroof, most unnecessary electrics like elec seats or a useless gps to interfere, EAS to drop, MAF to fault, EGR to cock up, TCS to go wrong, one less head sensor, proper metal manifold, no passive coil to die, no double liability exhaust, no silly silver striping down sides
and most of all no cup holders
Still breaks frequently
but is easier to sort through.
Still not required nanocom
and most of all no cup holders
Still breaks frequently
but is easier to sort through.
Still not required nanocom
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Not had any ABS issues, ,no DSP to go wrong and no sunroof to leak on either car,
Front diffs are likely to be due to the VCU seizing which IMO is likely to be aggravated by worn tyres on one axle and new tyres on the other axle.
Jon Dor
Well-Known Member
I've got all three on my 2000 4.6 Vogue
Get yourselves a donkey... Simples, although I'm keeping my big green dingy
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