MJI

Well-Known Member
Starting to rust around the rear axle. What is the best way of treating it?

Will be getting £5000 loan after paying the car off for a re chassis
 
i have always used the trick of wire brush/ wire head on a drill etc get as much as you can off then use some sort of rust converter
(Hammerite) kurust

(Jenolite ) Rust Remover this is prob the best one the MOD use it on tanks etc so it cant be bad stuff
(NVP OMNICOATE)
Black Magic

these are ones i have used before to good effect hope this helps some

then hammerite paint over the axel first let that dry as this will creat a solid barrier then use waxoil/underseal over that to weatherproof it etc
 
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yeah wire bursh etc then rust killer/converter hammerite paint over it then underseal i have had loads of fords so they r just rust magnets
 
I was looking at getting my chassis treated at Rustbusters. Anyone had any dealings with them? Mines not too bad atm, but I really don't want to be forking out for a replacement in a few years...and I don't fancy the job myself!
http://www.rust.co.uk
 
Jenolite used to be very good, but has either changed for H&S reasons or has been overtaken by better products. Kurust isn't up to much either.

Fertan is VERY good and and I use a lot of it. The box section sills I put on my disco were externally treated with only fertan about 4 years ago and if it scratches off there is bright steel underneath. Not bad for something that should top coated within a year when used externally.

After that paint the repairs with Bonda primer or Bilt hamber electrox (amazing stuff - good as hot galv dipping) then top coat with either bilt hamber epoxy mastic and BH Dynax UB, or just Dynax UB as the underseat/topcoat and make sure to spray the cavities with BH Dynax s50. Don't put waxoyl near it for gods sake! :)

Buzz weld corroless coatings are also said to be very good, but I've had no experience of them as yet..
Bilt hamber products are very under rated and they're not well advertised for some reason, but are pretty much the best available in what ever they decide to make next. I'm not linked to them, but I wish I was... Maybe I'd get commission! :D
 
Jenolite used to be very good, but has either changed for H&S reasons or has been overtaken by better products. Kurust isn't up to much either.

Fertan is VERY good and and I use a lot of it. The box section sills I put on my disco were externally treated with only fertan about 4 years ago and if it scratches off there is bright steel underneath. Not bad for something that should top coated within a year when used externally.

After that paint the repairs with Bonda primer or Bilt hamber electrox (amazing stuff - good as hot galv dipping) then top coat with either bilt hamber epoxy mastic and BH Dynax UB, or just Dynax UB as the underseat/topcoat and make sure to spray the cavities with BH Dynax s50. Don't put waxoyl near it for gods sake! :)

Buzz weld corroless coatings are also said to be very good, but I've had no experience of them as yet..
Bilt hamber products are very under rated and they're not well advertised for some reason, but are pretty much the best available in what ever they decide to make next. I'm not linked to them, but I wish I was... Maybe I'd get commission! :D

Corroless S2 is pretty similar to the old Kurust primer back in the day, before they took all the good toxins out.
Good corrosion resistance, goes on well with a brush, and not stupidly expensive if you buy in bulk.
 
I have seen much worse in fact it look fairly good brush and scrape it down and coat it again. With a Landrover that just part of looking after them.
Looks like the Fuel filter is not connected either and look like it needs changing.
 
Good excuse to get a compressor and squirt waxoyl or dinitrol or whatever into the chassis at pressure and watch a good mist of it drive out along the various access holes.
Hammerite kurust (the stuff which is a bit like milk in consistancy) can be sprayed on using a cheap plastic plant water mister from the pound shop. Can also be squirted into chassis sections.
 
Not much wrong with that chassis from the photos that cant be held at bay for a while.
 

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