MJI
Well-Known Member
All the underseal I put on has fallen off, and it is all rust coloured
Toby247
Member
i have always used the trick of wire brush/ wire head on a drill etc get as much as you can off then use some sort of rust converter
(Hammerite) kurust
(Jenolite ) Rust Remover this is prob the best one the MOD use it on tanks etc so it cant be bad stuff
(NVP OMNICOATE) Black Magic
these are ones i have used before to good effect hope this helps some
then hammerite paint over the axel first let that dry as this will creat a solid barrier then use waxoil/underseal over that to weatherproof it etc
(Hammerite) kurust
(Jenolite ) Rust Remover this is prob the best one the MOD use it on tanks etc so it cant be bad stuff
(NVP OMNICOATE) Black Magic
these are ones i have used before to good effect hope this helps some
then hammerite paint over the axel first let that dry as this will creat a solid barrier then use waxoil/underseal over that to weatherproof it etc
Last edited:
pete1987RRC
Well-Known Member
Then spray often with oil
MJI
Well-Known Member
Is that the rusted away bracket?
V8 shooter
Member
I was looking at getting my chassis treated at Rustbusters. Anyone had any dealings with them? Mines not too bad atm, but I really don't want to be forking out for a replacement in a few years...and I don't fancy the job myself!
http://www.rust.co.uk
http://www.rust.co.uk
Saltlick
Well-Known Member
Jenolite used to be very good, but has either changed for H&S reasons or has been overtaken by better products. Kurust isn't up to much either.
Fertan is VERY good and and I use a lot of it. The box section sills I put on my disco were externally treated with only fertan about 4 years ago and if it scratches off there is bright steel underneath. Not bad for something that should top coated within a year when used externally.
After that paint the repairs with Bonda primer or Bilt hamber electrox (amazing stuff - good as hot galv dipping) then top coat with either bilt hamber epoxy mastic and BH Dynax UB, or just Dynax UB as the underseat/topcoat and make sure to spray the cavities with BH Dynax s50. Don't put waxoyl near it for gods sake!
Buzz weld corroless coatings are also said to be very good, but I've had no experience of them as yet..
Bilt hamber products are very under rated and they're not well advertised for some reason, but are pretty much the best available in what ever they decide to make next. I'm not linked to them, but I wish I was... Maybe I'd get commission!
Fertan is VERY good and and I use a lot of it. The box section sills I put on my disco were externally treated with only fertan about 4 years ago and if it scratches off there is bright steel underneath. Not bad for something that should top coated within a year when used externally.
After that paint the repairs with Bonda primer or Bilt hamber electrox (amazing stuff - good as hot galv dipping) then top coat with either bilt hamber epoxy mastic and BH Dynax UB, or just Dynax UB as the underseat/topcoat and make sure to spray the cavities with BH Dynax s50. Don't put waxoyl near it for gods sake!
Buzz weld corroless coatings are also said to be very good, but I've had no experience of them as yet..
Bilt hamber products are very under rated and they're not well advertised for some reason, but are pretty much the best available in what ever they decide to make next. I'm not linked to them, but I wish I was... Maybe I'd get commission!
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Jenolite used to be very good, but has either changed for H&S reasons or has been overtaken by better products. Kurust isn't up to much either.
Fertan is VERY good and and I use a lot of it. The box section sills I put on my disco were externally treated with only fertan about 4 years ago and if it scratches off there is bright steel underneath. Not bad for something that should top coated within a year when used externally.
After that paint the repairs with Bonda primer or Bilt hamber electrox (amazing stuff - good as hot galv dipping) then top coat with either bilt hamber epoxy mastic and BH Dynax UB, or just Dynax UB as the underseat/topcoat and make sure to spray the cavities with BH Dynax s50. Don't put waxoyl near it for gods sake!
Buzz weld corroless coatings are also said to be very good, but I've had no experience of them as yet..
Bilt hamber products are very under rated and they're not well advertised for some reason, but are pretty much the best available in what ever they decide to make next. I'm not linked to them, but I wish I was... Maybe I'd get commission!
Corroless S2 is pretty similar to the old Kurust primer back in the day, before they took all the good toxins out.
Good corrosion resistance, goes on well with a brush, and not stupidly expensive if you buy in bulk.
Feathers McGraw
Well-Known Member
Good excuse to get a compressor and squirt waxoyl or dinitrol or whatever into the chassis at pressure and watch a good mist of it drive out along the various access holes.
Hammerite kurust (the stuff which is a bit like milk in consistancy) can be sprayed on using a cheap plastic plant water mister from the pound shop. Can also be squirted into chassis sections.
Hammerite kurust (the stuff which is a bit like milk in consistancy) can be sprayed on using a cheap plastic plant water mister from the pound shop. Can also be squirted into chassis sections.
That's the water sensor which was deleted from later cars and is a waste of time anyway.
But the filter still needs changing.
