I've just built a house myself. Doing this is easy I am copying what was fitted and the position of the brackets. The reason your saying people have a hard time lining it up must be the chassis is made slightly out of position. A jig is only for speed so you dont have to measure. I am measuring the chassis just now and bulkhead mount on one side had been replaced and its 20mm out compared to the untouched original untouched side. These chassis manufacturers are making as many as they can as fast as they can. Different guys are making them human error. Rc chassis started in a chicken shed . Both chassis legs are identical. A jig just let's you bang on the brackets without measuring or checking it not some hydraulic pulling machine . We will see it's just funds that will slow me done as I said we have spent alot on 1 2storie extension side and 1 kitchen extension
TorsionBhudda
Well-Known Member
The chassis has a lot of strengthening brackets internally this is something to think about as well when building your own. Also where bolts pass right through the chassis rails there is tubes to prevent crushing when tightening the bolts. It won't just be a case of just taking a template of the chassis rail and cutting sheet steel to size and welding you would be advised to open up the rail and see where the strengthening brackets are etc. That way you know your chassis is as strong and as safe as a designed chassis.
Scooby22
Well-Known Member
I am not saying you can't do it, I am sure you are very capable, just saying that it has to be spot on to avoid big headaches later, and as TorsionBhudda says there are a lot of internal strengthening tubes and bouble or even treble skinned parts to stop flexing or add strength to support areas and fastening points that have to be added to maintain the safe integrity of the chassis.
I wish you a great deal of success with it if you go ahead and do it.
TorsionBhudda
Well-Known Member
I hope you can do it but it's one thing to copy how the chassis looks externally you also need to copy the internals of the chassis as this is what gives the strength and also safety in the event of a crash. My replacement Chassis came fro Marslands Chassis and was basically a latest model 2015 chassis modified to accept my engine (200Tdi), I chose Marsland over Richards because it was the latest model with all the up to date improvements and crumple zones which in my eyes make it a safer choice.
I would strongly suggest if you are an accomplished welder/plater that you repair the chassis that you have then in a year or 2 if finances have improved replace the chassis.
The biggest benifit of buying a chassis from a reputable company is if the chassis was to fail due to a manufaturing fault and cause an accident and possibly deaths then the company would be liable. If you build you're own chassis and it fails then you would be liable.
Ok I was only saying what I am going to do. Crumple zones mean weak zones designed to fail. I am competent there is only tubes inside the frame at the power steering box my chassis will be fine . I welded the plates on to the steel beams in my house which are holding approx 13 ton every day . I appreciated some people cant do it and look for someone who is approved ect . They do not use witchcraft to make a chassis it is made with steel welded together. The people who make rc chassis are humans not robots. This is like the eu type approved ect nonsence. I was only showing what I was doing. I was going to buy a chassis to save time but no I am going to make it now even thought of using 200x100 6mm it would be mega strong but theres no need for that. It's not being welded with a Clark mig that has cold welds no power ect.how in gods name would a chassis fail that's new steel?. I been welding for 30 years. How do you think rc chassis started witchcraft and spells? Ordinary cars are spot welded together artic chassis is about 10mm channel for carrying 40 tonne. It will be fine . I can weld as good as anyone in marshland or rc or shoulder. I let yous see the finished leg should be so.etime next week. This just encourages me that the way I am.
Andy
Andy
I'm a plater by trade also and I must admit I could fabricate a chassis no problem. I'm going to be buying a Marsland chassis as the last thing I want to be doing is a load of fabrication on my time off. I don't mind a little bit ie the bulkhead.
The only concern I'd have is the heat when welding and the chassis pulling, but I'm not going to tell a fellow plater how to suck eggs.
Good look with the chassis
The only concern I'd have is the heat when welding and the chassis pulling, but I'm not going to tell a fellow plater how to suck eggs.
Good look with the chassis
Yup total agree but the money I had put by for the chassis the wife spent on the house. So it was either fix or make a new one so since I took it off its make a new one
TorsionBhudda
Well-Known Member
When I cut up my chassis it had more than just tubes there was a lot of webb’s inside and in places the steel is 3 layers thick when I’m At my workshop tomorrow I will take some pics of it. I’m a experienced fabricator and welder it’s not something I would tackle in my workshop. Like I’ve said if you do manage to pull it off and make a safe chassis then hats off to you. As for crumple zones they are there to protect and hopefully save occupants of both vehicles in the event of a crash. No crumple zones means theres more chance someone could be killed in event of a crash which would then make you liable is it really worth the risk? Would be a good exercise to make a chassis for a strictly off-road Land Rover
Yes ok crumple zones there was no such thing in 1989. I showed you inside the rail. There is no risk what ever inside I will copy
TorsionBhudda
Well-Known Member
I’ve seen inside a chassis plenty times there is more than those little angle webs. I’ll take some picks off inside my old chassis and let you see. There is sections that’s are up to 3 layers thick and obviously the chassis was designed that way for a reason. I’m sure you will do a good job making a chassis as I’m sure I could easily make one myself but the reason I wouldn’t is that if something was to happen and it failed then I would be liable and could end up in prison if someone was hurt or killed due to an oversight/mistake during fabrication. You’re right Marslands and Richards aren’t using witchcraft to make their chassis but they will have a stringent Quality assurance and testing procedures before passing chassis on to customers. Marslands chassis are actually made by the company that supplied Land Rover their Chassis. Your chassis doesn’t actually look that bad even on inside and me personally I would repair it remove all rust treat it on inside with rust converter then ladle on the Dintroll inside and out.
It's a steel frame! If there are bits that 10mm thick guess what I'll do. It for me! I dont think if I made it with 10mm plate . It wont be eu type approved who approves these chassis your on about?
Last edited:
TorsionBhudda
Well-Known Member
The Marsland chassis will be type approved as it’s supplied by the same company that made chassis for Land Rover that’s why they come with the latest crumble zones only thing they change is engine mounts. As for Richards I don’t think they are and that’s why I didn’t buy from them. All I’m doing is trying point out the legal ramifications you may find yourself in. Like I’ve said before chassis you have doesn’t seem that bad and for a skilled man like yourself it can be easily repaired and saved for many more year and save yourself a lot of money time and hard work.
I'm pleased you didn't actually talk slowly.
RC are said to use 3mm plate, but don't know if that's true.
As I said before, I've no idea about the legalities of using a home made chassis on the road. @owl might.
If it is and you go for it I wish you the best of luck getting everything lined up etc. Make sure you post pictures, or video, so we can watch is grow.
