T

TAH

Active Member

• Jun 23, 2011

• #1

Can't seem to work out why my central locking locks and unlocks while I am driving
thought the key might be at fault as it was in reasonably bad cond, so have refurbed it, all looks fine
but when I drive, at random times the locks go down, and back up, and down.. etc no rhyme or reason.
What could be the cause?

 

bison4x4

Active Member

• Jun 23, 2011

• #2

Presuming a P38:-
That is usually the drivers side door latch mechanism worn.
Irritating, but as it means replacing the latch, most put up with it.

If you lock the doors whilst in the car, with the fob or drivers side door button, that normally stops it from getting on your nerves.

 

L

Lone_Wolf

Active Member

• Jun 24, 2011

• #3

I had this one and for a year I locked the doors when driving to stop it annoying me.
Fixed it by changing the passenger side door lock. In my case the clue to which door lock was causing it was obvious as when the passenger door was opened the message centre did not report the door open and EAS would work with the door open, also the interior light would not come on.

Cause is a faulty lock, you just have to find which one it is.

LW....

 

dougdotcom

Active Member

• Jun 24, 2011

• #4

Had same problem but this was the wire connector to the door latch at the bottom of the door, if i moved it about it locked and unlocked so a bad connector was the problem. easy fix.

 

T

TAH

Active Member

• Jun 25, 2011

• #5

mmm this could be the rear offside door then, as that won't operate the courtesy lights, and the car doesn't know its open (locked the keys in a few weeks back as that door was open, the car locked itself thinking no one had opened a door, then I knocked the door shut)
I also can't operate that door window from the console switches, although its fine from the actual door switch.
I'll start with stripping that door to have a look at the wiring.
Door latches expensive? can you just change them - I seem to remember changing them means reprogamming of BECM or something!?

 

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Lone_Wolf

Active Member

• Jun 28, 2011

• #6

Changing is simple enough and I didn't have to re-program anything. Paid £140 ish for new front lock from Island 4x4. Check VIN as I believe there are two types, one for early cars and other for late cars. Mine was the later one as it's a 2001 built car.

 

T

TAH

Active Member

• Jun 28, 2011

• #7

Lone_Wolf said:

Changing is simple enough and I didn't have to re-program anything. Paid £140 ish for new front lock from Island 4x4. Check VIN as I believe there are two types, one for early cars and other for late cars. Mine was the later one as it's a 2001 built car.

Click to expand...

Thanks - mine will be the same, being an 01 car also. Might have to live with it for a little while, until funding allows more RR spend (house move out the way!)

 

T

TAH

Active Member

• Jul 2, 2011

• #8

dougdotcom said:

Had same problem but this was the wire connector to the door latch at the bottom of the door, if i moved it about it locked and unlocked so a bad connector was the problem. easy fix.

Click to expand...

I've just finished changing the drivers door regulator - not a bad job really - anyway while I was in there I checked all the connectors to the drivers door latch, reseated them and cleaned with electronic contact cleaner. The drivers door knob now operates all 4 locks when pushed down (which it didn't before) and so I am hopful this may have fixed the lock bouncing issue in my case