Canyonero

Canyonero

Active Member
What's up. Figured I'd start a thread on my project D2. I don't have huge plans for it, but it's the first project land rover I've ever had. Managed to get hold of it pretty cheap and it needs some work to get an MOT.

The Chassis is remarkably clean compared to the others I went to see and for half the price, so I figured "how hard can swapping out some ball joints and fixing an ACE leak be?" - LOL

Anyway, I only have one picture of it before it went on jack stands and started collecting my vertebrae.

ES 2003 td5 auto 110k miles.

IMG-20221014-WA0006~2.jpg
 
Aaagh!! a sunroof!!
But it does have a snorkel I see.
You'll need a check list of things to check and correct, unless they have been done already.
 
Canyonero said:
What's up. Figured I'd start a thread on my project D2. I don't have huge plans for it, but it's the first project land rover I've ever had. Managed to get hold of it pretty cheap and it needs some work to get an MOT.

The Chassis is remarkably clean compared to the others I went to see and for half the price, so I figured "how hard can swapping out some ball joints and fixing an ACE leak be?" - LOL

Anyway, I only have one picture of it before it went on jack stands and started collecting my vertebrae.

ES 2003 td5 auto 110k miles.

View attachment 276333
Click to expand...
Very smart, love the colour.
 
Bantam1 said:
Aaagh!! a sunroof!!
But it does have a snorkel I see.
You'll need a check list of things to check and correct, unless they have been done already.
Click to expand...

One sealed and one that miraculously doesn't seem to be leaking!

Is there a checklist knocking about? Most of the major concerns I'm aware of have been taken care of, except the prop but I don't mind doing that.
 
Knappster said:
Looks tidy. What other plans have you got for it? Looking forward to more pics.
Click to expand...

Not decided totally, but I'll be throwing a steel bumper on it and some BFG KO2s. I don't think I'm gonna lift it any time soon since I'll be using it on the road for a while once it's up and running.

Open to suggestions though :D
 
If you haven't already, I'd suggest getting a nanocom or hawkeye diagnostic tool, will save you money in the long run.
 
Do you have 2 keys? Pain in the arse if you only have one and you lose it, (speaking from experience lol)
 
steve24v said:
Do you have 2 keys? Pain in the arse if you only have one and you lose it, (speaking from experience lol)
Click to expand...

Hahaha aye I've got two keys. That reminds me actually. The tailgate and rear passenger door don't unlock off the fob. I'm not that bothered by the door but the tailgate is annoying. Not sure if that's common, all I know is I hate taking interior panels off
 
Canyonero said:
Hahaha aye I've got two keys. That reminds me actually. The tailgate and rear passenger door don't unlock off the fob. I'm not that bothered by the door but the tailgate is annoying. Not sure if that's common, all I know is I hate taking interior panels off
Click to expand...
What unlocks from the unlock button on the dash?
 
Canyonero said:
Everything except the rear passenger door and tailgate I think... I won't be near it til the weekend so I'll double check then.

What's does the result tell you?
Click to expand...
Not much more than the obvious, that it's the same as the remote/fob. So the fob isn't at fault.
So it is more likely to be the mechanisms in the door and the tailgate. Not uncommon. :(
 
Right then, I actually did this yesterday but didn't add it to the thread.

Managed to get the ball joints off after some serious persuasion. The trick for the top ball joints was a generous dose of heat, then blowing the top off with the clamp. Once the top popped I could chuck a socket against what was left of it and crank it out.

The bottom ball joints were a bit more straight forward to get out, but again plenty of heat. Pressing down with the clamp on a socket was enough. Separating it from the hub carrier was a different kettle of fish though. The only way I found that worked was to apply loads of pressure with a separator on the top ball joint which had already separated from the hub carrier, then absolutely leather the bottom one with a pickle fork after cooking it.

Both sides are done but since they're the same one pic will do.
IMG-20221018-WA0011.jpeg



I forgot to add in my initial description that I've been chilling with three amigos (and a permanently illuminated handbrake light). I'm hoping the three amigos will go once I've swapped the hubs out on both sides since on the failed MOT one of them was so bad it was about to break up.

Handbrake light is a mystery to me for now but I've not investigated at all. Far as I know it could be low fluid level or a dodgy handbrake sensor. I'm hoping it'll be resolved by the new hubs in some nice twist of fate but I'm not expecting it to be that easy :)
 
Canyonero said:
Right then, I actually did this yesterday but didn't add it to the thread.

Managed to get the ball joints off after some serious persuasion. The trick for the top ball joints was a generous dose of heat, then blowing the top off with the clamp. Once the top popped I could chuck a socket against what was left of it and crank it out.

The bottom ball joints were a bit more straight forward to get out, but again plenty of heat. Pressing down with the clamp on a socket was enough. Separating it from the hub carrier was a different kettle of fish though. The only way I found that worked was to apply loads of pressure with a separator on the top ball joint which had already separated from the hub carrier, then absolutely leather the bottom one with a pickle fork after cooking it.

Both sides are done but since they're the same one pic will do.
View attachment 276415


I forgot to add in my initial description that I've been chilling with three amigos (and a permanently illuminated handbrake light). I'm hoping the three amigos will go once I've swapped the hubs out on both sides since on the failed MOT one of them was so bad it was about to break up.

Handbrake light is a mystery to me for now but I've not investigated at all. Far as I know it could be low fluid level or a dodgy handbrake sensor. I'm hoping it'll be resolved by the new hubs in some nice twist of fate but I'm not expecting it to be that easy :)
Click to expand...
Well done!
Best of luck with the rest!:):):)
 
codfather79 said:
Good luck.
Get the chassis properly undersealed if you want it to last!!
Click to expand...
Agree with the sentiment but I'd avoid underseal like the plague. It hides the rust and holds the salty water.
Better off using proper chassis black or some other product like
https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/product...MI1dyd1cXu-gIV2u3tCh3qQQHUEAAYASAAEgJDZfD_BwE

and don't forget the chassis members rust from the inside out. On a D2. (I am that soldier, I have had to have it plated!) So treating the inside is really more important than the outside.;)
 
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