3 amigos normally due to worn hubs but could be a shuttle valve fault for which there is a fix.
Easyish!
(I've done it so it can't be that hard!)
What does your diagnostic say?;)
 
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I'm yet to plug it in because it's so intermittent (also because I have another project eating my time).

Hopefully it's just a rear rub, both the front ones are new! Will go over where the sensors plug in with some contact cleaner and see if that fixes things.

Not sure if this is a symptom of anything, but every time I start it and push the brake pedal I can feel the abs go o_O then it drives fine afterwards lol
 
Canyonero said:
I'm yet to plug it in because it's so intermittent (also because I have another project eating my time).

Hopefully it's just a rear rub, both the front ones are new! Will go over where the sensors plug in with some contact cleaner and see if that fixes things.

Not sure if this is a symptom of anything, but every time I start it and push the brake pedal I can feel the abs go o_O then it drives fine afterwards lol
Click to expand...
Sounds like you might need the shuttle valve fix which costs nothing except time, solder and a couple of bits of wire. There are those who advocate doing it anyway. I had to buy a new shuttle valve modulator switch which I then modified they are only about £13 off Amazon. Symptom was 3 amigos on all the time yet nothing on diagnostics about sensor. It fixed it.
The first attempt was to do the bypass fix, which fixed it for about 1/2 mile!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Sounds like you might need the shuttle valve fix which costs nothing except time, solder and a couple of bits of wire. There are those who advocate doing it anyway. I had to buy a new shuttle valve modulator switch which I then modified they are only about £13 off Amazon. Symptom was 3 amigos on all the time yet nothing on diagnostics about sensor. It fixed it.
The first attempt was to do the bypass fix, which fixed it for about 1/2 mile!
Click to expand...
Aha that's handy to know. You got a link to anything explaining what to do?
 
Canyonero said:
Aha that's handy to know. You got a link to anything explaining what to do?
Click to expand...
For a kick off, before doing the mod you need to know that this is the actual fault and not something else, which you can really only get by doing a diagnostic.
That said, the mod is still worth doing because even if the fault is elsewhere the shuttle valve fault will eventually occur and need sorting.
The electrical part of the mod is really easy, it is actually getting to the modulator that is a right pain as it is under the ABS valve block thingy.
Annoyingly I did this last year and posted on it including pics of the tools I used to make getting the three allen headed bolts out but because I post so much I have had trouble finding it! In fact I cannot find it.
but here is a link to one of the many threads on this. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/3-amigos-reset-after-shuttle-valve-mod.272111/
Beware of what you find on youtube, there are two ways of doing the electrical mod and only one of them is correct. but they do show how to get to the modulator.
I used a Allen key bit with a bit of tape wrapped round it to stop it falling through the end of a flat ratchet spanner. Some people have found it a right pain to even get the bolt to start moving and you WILL need a small mirror and a torch to find the heads of the bolts.
I'll persevere on finding the thread I posted to cos @sierrafery replied to me and was most helpful, as he always is.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
For a kick off, before doing the mod you need to know that this is the actual fault and not something else, which you can really only get by doing a diagnostic.
That said, the mod is still worth doing because even if the fault is elsewhere the shuttle valve fault will eventually occur and need sorting.
The electrical part of the mod is really easy, it is actually getting to the modulator that is a right pain as it is under the ABS valve block thingy.
Annoyingly I did this last year and posted on it including pics of the tools I used to make getting the three allen headed bolts out but because I post so much I have had trouble finding it! In fact I cannot find it.
but here is a link to one of the many threads on this. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/3-amigos-reset-after-shuttle-valve-mod.272111/
Beware of what you find on youtube, there are two ways of doing the electrical mod and only one of them is correct. but they do show how to get to the modulator.
I used a Allen key bit with a bit of tape wrapped round it to stop it falling through the end of a flat ratchet spanner. Some people have found it a right pain to even get the bolt to start moving and you WILL need a small mirror and a torch to find the heads of the bolts.
I'll persevere on finding the thread I posted to cos @sierrafery replied to me and was most helpful, as he always is.
Click to expand...
I'll get the ol' scanner out tomorrow to confirm. Should have a bit of spare time to spend looking at it this weekend.

I'll also stalk your old posts and see if I can find it :)

Thanks for the help, bro :D
 
Canyonero said:
Aha that's handy to know. You got a link to anything explaining what to do?
Click to expand...
I should have explained that my first attempt was to do the bypass fix on the old modulator switch pack, which was stoopid cos that was where a lot of the fault was!
New switch pack, bypass mod done, no probs since.
 
upload_2022-11-8_0-31-42.png

So 10 mm flat ratchet spanner holding the Allen key bit with tape wrapped round it
and here is the hex headed Allen bit
upload_2022-11-8_0-34-12.png

sorry I cannot remember the size and it is covered by the tape.
 
Canyonero said:
Looks like a right pain in the arse. Can't wait!
Click to expand...
I also changed the water pump not long after. both PITA jobs.
TBH it was just a question of methodically moving things out of the way and easing things.
You'll find blocks of wood useful to hold the unit up enough to enable you to get your tools into the underneath to get the modulator thing off. If you are not very tall it may be an idea to find something to stand on, I did and I am 5'9".
When unclipping pipes off the bulkhead you may find the clips break, but usually you can fix that by using cable ties. Try spraying the clips with WD40 first, they then come out easier.
All the very best with it mate!;):):):)
 
Well, another issue with the most ungrateful sh!tbox I've ever owned. Left me stranded at the start of November last year, when the alternator failed and the battery died. I've since swapped the alternator and had some trouble free motoring until today

M+S lights came on and started flashing as I pulled out of a junction, D disappears when I put it in drive. Tried restarting but no luck. Thankfully I was close to home and got it back in what I assume was 3rd gear lol

Common causes? I read bad voltage so could be that the battery isn't holding charge after the alternator issues. Maybe bad electrical connection? I'm gonna hammer it with WD40 after work and check the battery is in tight enough given the clamps are a pita.
 
Canyonero said:
Well, another issue with the most ungrateful sh!tbox I've ever owned. Left me stranded at the start of November last year, when the alternator failed and the battery died. I've since swapped the alternator and had some trouble free motoring until today

M+S lights came on and started flashing as I pulled out of a junction, D disappears when I put it in drive. Tried restarting but no luck. Thankfully I was close to home and got it back in what I assume was 3rd gear lol

Common causes? I read bad voltage so could be that the battery isn't holding charge after the alternator issues. Maybe bad electrical connection? I'm gonna hammer it with WD40 after work and check the battery is in tight enough given the clamps are a pita.
Click to expand...
Your point about the batt clamps is very valid, and my advice is to undo them completely, bassh the clamps down the terminals with a hammer and a socket, then tighten them.
BUT i think your problem is typical behaviour of the insulation breaking down under neatht eh infamous P clamp on the Transfer box. So it'll mean taking the P-clamp off and digging down through the bit of loom until you find the bare cables then reinsulating.
In third gear only is limp home mode.
If I'm wrong then I'm sorry but at least you will have headed this particularl bug off at the pass.
 
Ah damn, I was hoping it'd at least be a quick fix without much troubleshooting. Gotta admit it's testing my patience at this point haha

Also someone drove into my wing mirror and smashed the glass. Thankfully the housing seems to be fine.
 
Canyonero said:
Ah damn, I was hoping it'd at least be a quick fix without much troubleshooting. Gotta admit it's testing my patience at this point haha

Also someone drove into my wing mirror and smashed the glass. Thankfully the housing seems to be fine.
Click to expand...
Sorry about all this.
At least a new glass is cheap.
Fixing tip, take the plastic ring off the middle of the bit of the inside of the mirror and clip it onto the back of the glass, then press the glass back in.
It's easier than trying tom line up the thing that stops it vibrating then put first one end then the other into the sides of the ring.
guess how I know!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Sorry about all this.
At least a new glass is cheap.
Fixing tip, take the plastic ring off the middle of the bit of the inside of the mirror and clip it onto the back of the glass, then press the glass back in.
It's easier than trying tom line up the thing that stops it vibrating then put first one end then the other into the sides of the ring.
guess how I know!
Click to expand...

Ah thanks for the tip. I was just wondering how hard it'd be to get back in. I'm not good at the fiddly stuff so have been dreading it.

I couldn't resist so I went and beat the batt clamps with a hammer. Sadly didn't do much besides give me a little therapy haha
 
My last td5 would do the '3rd gear' only thing occasionally, I would just turn it off and lock and unlock it and more often than not it worked, I never investigated it :)
 
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