Simon Perks said:

Bob, is that a tricky job, getting the rollers out? .. I just wonder if like the valves I should just replace em anyway ... so like i do the vales and seals plus the rollers and a new composite head gasket ..
I mean if i'm also destined to do the timing chain, how much more of a job would it be to put a new camshaft in at the same time ?

Click to expand...

Not as big of a job as taking out the cam.
At the end of the day its your call how far you go. Short of a full rebuild there aint much you can do to make an old engine perfect. Some loss of umph has to be accepted.

You can set the tappets with a gauge then re test with a dial gauge rather than taking the lot off. Saves time and gives an indication of wear.
You can judge the wear on the lobes from above before having to take it out, its an easy job.
If your replacing valves check the guides. for any real longevity its worth doing both.
You could replace the lot and find no real improvement but its a worthwhile exercise to check everything.

I'm more of a thrash it till it goes bang sort of chap

Just wish I hadnt had to rebuild my top end due to a snapped chain

Oh and its worth getting all the bits and bobs from Turner Engineering. They aint much dearer than the usual crew but dont sell crap.

If you look at the amount of thread on the valve adjusters, it will give an idea of wear further down. On a good engine with little wear, when the valves are all set properly the amount of thread above the adjuster nuts should roughly be the same. If one or more is significantly different to the others, there is a problem, probably with a cam follower or cam lobe. If you haven't been using lead replacement additive regularly, there is a possibility the valve seats are pitted and leaking. If this is the case, you might sometimes get backfiring and rough running. If you don't mind spending money, a stage1 head converted for lead free petrol from Turners, is a good investment.

Col