kapilamuni
Active Member
Hi,
I have got to ask few things;
1. How did you remove the front coover without removing either Head or Sump?
2. How did you rotate the engine without the crank bolt? by inj pump nut?
thanks in advance.
I have got to ask few things;
1. How did you remove the front coover without removing either Head or Sump?
2. How did you rotate the engine without the crank bolt? by inj pump nut?
thanks in advance.
Answer one. Very carefully and progressively. Answer two. You put the crank bolt in and use that. Turning it with pump nut is not possible. Unless you want to strip the thread that is.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Can remember having a stud either on top or bottomof the front cover. In that case , sump must come out or the stud should be removable.
Any idea on the stud?
Any idea on the stud?
There’s a stud on the top on the right hand side of the head with a 10mm nut wat I did was put another nut on it and undo the bottom nut to extract the stud .
Think there’s 6/8 bolts on the bottom going through the sump and 5 bolts and the stud on the top then then loads of bolts bolting the front cover on . You need to be careful doing it this way and just gently prize the cover of don’t damage mating surfaces or it will leak .
Definitely don’t turn the engine over via the pump bolt only by the crank bolt (clockwise)
Think there’s 6/8 bolts on the bottom going through the sump and 5 bolts and the stud on the top then then loads of bolts bolting the front cover on . You need to be careful doing it this way and just gently prize the cover of don’t damage mating surfaces or it will leak .
Definitely don’t turn the engine over via the pump bolt only by the crank bolt (clockwise)
kapilamuni
Active Member
Thanks Guyw. will start once I get the new crank bolt.
kapilamuni
Active Member
I have a question. Looking at the pictures, I have a doubt whether it's possible to get the pump sprocket to rotate if required.
With the cyl head in place, there is not enough slack in the chain or space to move it away from the sprocket, even after tension removed.
Daryl86, will you explain, how you adjusted the chain to reset the shift created by a tooth of the pump sprocket?
You did not take out both crank & pump sprockets out with the chain, I guess.
With the cyl head in place, there is not enough slack in the chain or space to move it away from the sprocket, even after tension removed.
Daryl86, will you explain, how you adjusted the chain to reset the shift created by a tooth of the pump sprocket?
You did not take out both crank & pump sprockets out with the chain, I guess.
You need to slide the crank sprocket of with the chain still on then remove chain from pump And refitting is the reverse prosedure .
Just rotate the pump sprocket clockwise if needs be (with no chain).
When re fitting fit chain to pump with pip and gold link lined up and the same on the crank sprocket then slide onto crank and locate wood roof with slack in the chain
Just rotate the pump sprocket clockwise if needs be (with no chain).
When re fitting fit chain to pump with pip and gold link lined up and the same on the crank sprocket then slide onto crank and locate wood roof with slack in the chain
kapilamuni
Active Member
Thanks Daryl86.
Initially, how did you know it had jumped a tooth? What were the symptoms?
Initially, how did you know it had jumped a tooth? What were the symptoms?
Rally rough running it happened on my drive way witch was lucky . I got to be quite a dab hand at doing that job. About 6 months after I created this thread the cam pulley came loose and bent every valve in the head . So sorced a 2nd hand head and fitted new chains that time . Then the heater control valve failed caused coolant to over pressure and over heat causing head gasket failure. So then fitted another gasket so all in ive done it 3 times now . She’s still going strong running about 200bhp and a shed load of touque
kapilamuni
Active Member
Mine starts on the button when cold and has serious hot start issue. But no rough running.
Nanocom shows 'Injection timing out of range' and engine temperature at 92-93 C range, which is slightly above the norm (90 C I guess).
Slight whitish smoke , more visible in the night from the lights of cars behind.
I can't get static timing set to 0.95mm even with pump pushed fully towards the engine. All these were after changing timing chains , about a year ago.
Said to be retarded with a tooth jumped on the inj pump chain. But with the symptoms, can't really think so. Specially when it starts on the button.
Normally, retarded engines struggle to start.
Anyway, waiting for the crank bolt arrive, to start the work.
Nanocom shows 'Injection timing out of range' and engine temperature at 92-93 C range, which is slightly above the norm (90 C I guess).
Slight whitish smoke , more visible in the night from the lights of cars behind.
I can't get static timing set to 0.95mm even with pump pushed fully towards the engine. All these were after changing timing chains , about a year ago.
Said to be retarded with a tooth jumped on the inj pump chain. But with the symptoms, can't really think so. Specially when it starts on the button.
Normally, retarded engines struggle to start.
Anyway, waiting for the crank bolt arrive, to start the work.
I have told you what it is, the timing marks are a link too far apart. When are you going to start listening.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
What tweaks have been done to it.
It's a Beemer not a P38.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Ah that explains it, they seam to be able to tweak them more in a beemer with out too many problems.
I think the p38 is just to heavy for the engine to cope with too much extra.
I think the p38 is just to heavy for the engine to cope with too much extra.
The fuelling and torque requirements were modified for use in the P38.
Do you mean lowered by any chance wammers?
