miktdish said:
Sorry to see that .... i hate these weird reactions .... personaly i'd start again, it would annoy me every time I got in.
Click to expand...
It has already annoyed me, but as I will need to order some fabric to start again I might fit it for now as it is the very rear section as see how much it does annoy me. I am at Newbury at the weekend so if (very unlikely) there is a cheap rear section I might do that and recover that.
 
Well parts arrived today so I had a go at fixing the wipers. I now have park! it was at the wrong end of the cycle so I had to dismantle the motor and move the plastic ramp 180 degrees but that was easy enough. The issue was most definitely the relay. What was fitted was a flasher relay:

upload_2023-3-30_16-44-37.png


Although I know I should have paid more attention I am not taking all of the blame for this one as I swapped over the relays that were on the donor bulkhead matching the plug wire colours to make sure I got the correct relay in the correct place. However this has not solved all of the problems as although I now have a fully functioning medium and fast speed that parks correctly I still have nothing for slow speed when moving the switch one position down. I will have a play with a multimeter next time which I did not have with me today and check the relay end to try and work out what is going on and see if I can follow why I still do not have the slow speed. I swapped the stalk over for a new one and it made no difference and did not bother swapping the park switches as that is working correctly now the right relay is fitted.

Any one got any suggestions for other things to try, at this point everything other than the motor is new!
 
Also with the parts delivery was the rest of the front lights so I managed to get the front end put back together and unlike the wipers all of the lights are functioning correctly!

upload_2023-3-30_16-53-48.png
 
Well fitting the replacement park switch has fixed the intermittent wipe fault. So I now have working wipers which is a big step Forward.

Although I have found another issue. The starter is a bit sticky and take a couple of attempts to actually engage. Is that something that is likely to improve with use having been sat in a barn for years or will it just get worse and I am better replacing it now?
 
dag019 said:
Well fitting the replacement park switch has fixed the intermittent wipe fault. So I now have working wipers which is a big step Forward.

Although I have found another issue. The starter is a bit sticky and take a couple of attempts to actually engage. Is that something that is likely to improve with use having been sat in a barn for years or will it just get worse and I am better replacing it now?
Click to expand...
I would change it now, they are a pig to get to if they fail during a day out!
 
I'd never have believed that the wipers would work at all with an indicator relay. Isn't that extraordinary? I'll try it on mine to see if it's true of later models as well.
 
My Old Landy said:
I would change it now, they are a pig to get to if they fail during a day out!
Click to expand...
It is basically all back together so it will be no quicker or easier a job now that in the future. So that part makes no difference other than I have time and don’t need the vehicle currently. Will it only get worse or is it likely to improve with use?
 
dag019 said:
It is basically all back together so it will be no quicker or easier a job now that in the future. So that part makes no difference other than I have time and don’t need the vehicle currently. Will it only get worse or is it likely to improve with use?
Click to expand...

surely you only need to clean the bendix, and put it back
 
dag019 said:
Well fitting the replacement park switch has fixed the intermittent wipe fault. So I now have working wipers which is a big step Forward.

Although I have found another issue. The starter is a bit sticky and take a couple of attempts to actually engage. Is that something that is likely to improve with use having been sat in a barn for years or will it just get worse and I am better replacing it now?
Click to expand...
Have you changed the starter relay??
Try this before solenoid removal.
 
freelance said:
surely you only need to clean the bendix, and put it back
Click to expand...
I have already done that. It was sticking when I was bench testing it and I cleaned the bendix and got it working properly.


Hicap phill said:
Have you changed the starter relay??
Try this before solenoid removal.
Click to expand...

that is on my list for this week as then I tried to remove it the casing came off not the relay coming out. So will get a new relay and see if that helps anything.
 
Ok having used the starter a few times now it seems to have made no difference. I am awaiting a new relay and will see if that helps.

In the mean time I have been moving forward with other things. I have completed fitting the raptor console and everything is fully working, I have also completed fitting and wiring the dash clocks and that also appears to all be working as it should.

upload_2023-4-10_14-37-58.jpeg


In my checks I did find that the heater blower fan was not working. After some trial and error and cleaning all of the contacts I think it is again a lack of use and a bit of a weak motor. The fan itself spins freely but it initially needed a bit of help to get it moving although once moving it would then spin on its own. After running it for a period of time and cleaning all the connections it appears to be working again now.
 
I have also taken advantage of the good weather (up until today) over the bank holiday to finish undercoating the chassis. As I have still not bled the clutch (need to prime the master first as is currently just pushing air) I had to push it out of the barn (down hill) and Jack it onto ramps to get underneath to pressure wash. I did then use the start it in gear in low box to reverse back into the barn.

upload_2023-4-10_14-45-58.jpeg


at the same time I did washed the 90 as I was planning to undercoat it at the same time but this morning rain meant that it was wet when I arrived at the farm so that will wait for another time.

upload_2023-4-10_14-47-3.jpeg


Having now finished dintriol coating the chassis (Inside and out) the only large job remaining is working out a tidy way to mount the cooling fans, everything else is small finishing jobs like aligning doors and fitting bullbars/roof lining/etc.
 
Can I ask if the center Raptor dash still keeps the "manual AC" levers accessible?

Cos I quiet like that:).
Not with the afterburner and ejector seat switches though;):D.

J
 
A separate thread here (LINK) but asking on here as well to keep everything together.

I am looking for a set of 6 BFG all terrains KO2 in size 265/75/r16. My question is where is the best place to get them from. Asking some local suppliers has given me prices of about £300 per tyre. ATS appear to have the best prices online at £217 (LINK). They also look like they have a 15% discount for their “hero club” (effectively blue light discount) but I cannot work out how to sign up for this. I am waiting until after the bank holiday to phone them up.

Does anyone have any suggestion for where is currently the best place/price to buy thesetyres?

I will also mention that although I want 6 Iwant to get them in pairs as that allows me to paint the wheels before fitting while stillrunning the vehicle.
 
marjon said:
Can I ask if the center Raptor dash still keeps the "manual AC" levers accessible?

Cos I quiet like that:).
Not with the afterburner and ejector seat switches though;):D.

J
Click to expand...

I assume you are talking about the all natural AC Land Rover built in with the front vets. Yes they are still accessible and you do still get a good draught from them when open. The drivers side one is a little tighter to access but not enough to make it difficult.

The afterburner switches are the ones that control the battery isolator solenoids. One is for the winch and one is for the whole vehicle electrics. Whereas I am not a big fan of the aesthetics of them I thought they were better than someone accidentally knocking them and killing everything mid drive! Especially as if anything was running other than the file solenoid the bypass fuse would blow and you then cannot reactivate the solenoid until that has been replaced.
 
Quick question regarding the dovetail locator/support on the rear door. This looks like there is too large a gap and it should be tighter fitting than this. I assume there should be a spacer that I am missing? Should it go behind the brass block on the door or the dovetail bracket on the tub? I also assume I can just measure the gap and cut a suitable thickness piece of metal to act as a spacer?

seperate thread link

upload_2023-4-21_0-23-44.png
 
Last edited:
tottot said:
It could be your replacement loom is stiffer [bit fatter]] than the original. I recon some P clips, stainless with plastic bed would do a good tidy job. My 1990 model still has the plastic bit but it has never been disturbed. As you say don't recon the plastic bracket has much chance in your case. Some times originality has to go.
Click to expand...


Well I finally go around to tidying this up and went with some nylon p-clips lined with a neoprene foam tape riveted to the bulkhead. it might not be quite as tidy as the original but it has secured them away form the engine and should prevent any movement or chafing or the loom.

upload_2023-4-21_0-30-32.png
 
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