mick dodd

mick dodd

Active Member
i was discusing with an old Ron about the fumes drawn into the tilt cab when on the move , two solutions were sugested .to side sweep the pipe as presently to rear .or to poke a tractor pipe out of the bonet,as Ron had done back in the 70s.My old truck spends most of its time in the fields ,but it does have to go between farms .is there any legal issue with the tractor stack with visibilty & will it cure the backdraft problem ? anyone
 
The military use to have the exhaust out and up at the side down the Falklands if I recall due to the conditions. but travelling would still incur exhaust drawing in for tilts. Out the bonnet would still drawn downwards if hit by a head wind back into the cab. You need to move the exhaust fume back at the rear. Side rear exhaust is the traditional behind the wheel pointing downwards. Better on the left side with lots of oil in the system so to annoy cyclists as you rev the cogs off:rolleyes::D:p
 
I borrowed a mates series that had the tractor style exhaust and the cab filled with fumes, and that was a hard top. Are you sure the exhaust is all in good order, a slight leak near the manifold will cause cabin fumes.

Col
 
theres a flexi genarator type pipe welded below the manifold . i will check the joint out in a little more detail though ! but when its warmed up its better or less nocuous.but with the tail gate down & pulling away the tilt draws in . i dont think ill use a stack pipe at the mo .ill have a go at sweepin to side . but thanks for the reply .if i spray some fary liquid solution it may show up .thanks reg mick
 
Agreed with the advice to check for leaks first. I had the problem on my LWB hardtop and found a pin hole in the manifold. I would get rid of the flexy. I've had a number of vehicles with these on, they are great when new but they have a seal strip wound into the coils that deterirorates. They also dont seal well onto the pipe, the best set up is to fully weld the ends. Look for holes in the floor too, OK its a series and they are full of holes, but taping over every hole makes a big difference. You have to do the bulkhead, round the heater pipes, the floor and around the rear of the tub. Mine had holes in the rear tub in the toolbox floor right above the tail pipe, Now all sealed with gutter mastic. I would run the pipe out the rear corner.
 
thanks . i have given it a manifold gasket .no better .have taped over the welded ends on the flexi dont know how that was done unless its galv .no better .plenty of holes in the floor to work on 2" gaps under the doors to let the water out .ime going to try blowing air into the system with old adapted hoover .i cant help thinking there is a big leak under there somewhere though .but what else does one do an rainy eveing in september .well that is more fun . regs mick .probably needs a whole new pipe but ill keep goin for now
 
I had exhaust smell in the cab and couldn't find the reason until I had a new footwell fitted and the welder found a crack in the manifold. It was impossible to see normally and trying to feel for leaks was confounded by the air rush of the fan.

Col
 
today found the fume culprit . twas air starvation from the butterfly inlet assembly .so i pulled it out .now no smoke at all !
 
Don’t you need that assembly though to create vacuum for the brake servo? You sure it wasn’t the FIP that needed adjustment instead?
 
this ones a transit smiley engine ,think it creates vacume for the egr valve ,but ill take another look to make sure the brakes work ok .,thanks for the tip reg mick
 
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