Raddison24 said:
The heaters all come on and I have tested the resistance for then all are OK bar one which is low but that should not stop it delivering fuel out of the IP
Click to expand...

Sorry for butting in here peeps, but exactly how did you check the heaters (glow plugs)?
The light on the dashboard just tells you that the circuit has been activated, not that the cylinders are being heated.
If you checked them with a multimeter set to read resistance, then I would expect them to show a low reading if they're OK and a high reading if they had burnt out.
With just one glow plug working, it's no wonder it's difficult to start.
 
OK, I have edited my post above about the EDC pump. picture is there now.

What @neilly says above is what I was trying to say in post #12 above - if you have no fuel at the injectors, then this will probably be the problem.... it could have failed, be full of crud - or even just disconnected - its underneath the boost connection from the turbo.

(My old eyes can't read the text on your photo :(- even on max zoom, so can't comment:rolleyes:)
 
VE pump.jpeg


Arrow points to the stop solenoid ( and yes, this is a 6Cyl pump, but you get the idea )
 
Hi radiison,

the wire we are talking about ( yellow arrow points to where the spade connector is ) , goes to the stop solenoid on the fuel pump. without 12V there you are not going to pump fuel.

So to recap, you have fuel at the filter, although you think it may not be much when you crank the engine.
So hopefully your lift pump is working.
BUT you have no fuel at the injectors.
first thing i would look at is that the stop solenoid is operating. As BFG also remarked.

Cheers
 
As your Disco is a 1997 my, manual gearbox it will have smart spider immobilisation. The stop solenoid has a single wire to it close to where the throttle cable adjuster is held onto the pump. Its a single female spade connector. See if there is battery voltage at that connector with the ignition on.If not the spider has probably failed,easy way to fix this is with a spider bypass link,AMR4956. Do a little search and there should be plenty of info about where the spider is and how to fit the link.I did so many and have smallish hands that I just used to remove the radio to do it.
If there is battery voltage at the solenoid then maybe the windings have failed. You can remove the solenoid and take the plunger out,just be wary you will have to stall it to stop it in this condition. If you still get no fuel,(And you are sure about the fuel supply to the injector pump) then either the pump is shot or not actually rotating with the engine...
 
Raddison24 said:
Cant remember seeing one though I am sure the three wires in that part of the system are direct into FIP
Click to expand...

IME, the white wire to the stop solenoid comes to the pump from the off side of the vehicle, and from under the pump - judged off all the crud in that engine bay, it could easily be missed :D
 
OK as for the heaters then the voltage to them is 12v until timed out / disconnect and read via fluke and resistance is OK for three but HIGH on only one.
Fuel from open injector pipe is ZERO when cranking engine over via key.
Yes sorry text has gone wrong there. (red circle white text should say - this is the electronic part I am confused about)
To MY old mind the FIP is built on an old CAV rotary type but has a lot of "added" bits new to my knowledge.
The old CAV had an electro-magnet pin valve which is had 6 to *12* volt would allow fuel to chambers for delivery this seems to have three black wires to the main body ?
If there is a way to activate this type of pump to deliver fuel or do I need to look at alternative remedies.
 
you need to look for the stop solenoid !!

Not that I have seen every VE pump, but I have yet to see one without a stop solenoid!

Even the EDC pump has a stop solenoid :)
 
If this may also help, the farmer has assured me that it drove off the low-loader and 'was' used around the farms then IT STOPPED? no one has done anything with it and he is sure the alarm was cut when he bought the disco's so I again assume that the alarm is linked out, and looking at the pig poop all around the inner wings and over the old alarm wires I would say he is right, IS the alarm and immobiliser on the same link-out idea ??
 
Hi Raddison,

Sounds more like either something terrible happened or a simple problem has happened, check the stop solenoid wire is attached and has volts, if it does, dismantle and check the solenoid is working. Once that is all OK , then time to check other things.

cheers
 
I only have one wire, to the spade connector on mine. Once you get your head in there and check, you can always just supply 12v to it to check if it will work.
can you get a photo of the back end of the pump where these wires go to?

Cheers
 
Did try to see what I had with my fluke but having no information on what I would expect to get from either continuity or volt + --
I did not want to pass 12V down a wire which may have an end tolerance of any range from 2v to the 12v or it could even be circuit earth or return.
It is the 3 wires which are confusing
1 could be on / off
1 could be excess fuel demand
1 could be circuit return (ground)
But I have thought it through logically so I am bound to be totally wrong.
 
Ok,if you have 3 wires at the yellow arrow you won't have a smart spider, it is Bosch DDS immobilisation. Looking from the back of the pump,probably easiest with a mirror you will see that black lump is held on by 2 shear headed bolts .You need to drill these out and remove the lump. Under the lump is the standard solenoid,using the wire that comes live when you key on, attach this direct to the solenoid. If it won't go then whip the plate off the timing cover,make sure the pump is going round.If it is remove the plunger,not forgetting you will have to stall it to stop.

Interesting that it is a VA - 1997 my, yet has DDS, In the past I've only seen WA - 1998my with DDS...
 
So I am not missing anything I have re-read this topic, to make sure I am following through the right way, I see a DPA pump with a solenoid valve BUT the pump on this engine is NOT that type.
To clarify there are 2 connections BOTH with three wires . one goes to the unit on top of the pump to the FWD section which I circled in RED the other again with tree wires goes to the main pump body [ this appears to be bonded to the casing ] it has three wires and when pulled it is very secure.
 
Ok, given 97 MY, I wonder if this is a "ROW" spec, re-imported at some point? (in which case it might be in better condition than it might otherwise appear - and a bit too good for farm only use !)

@eightinavee - can you tell from the VIN ?
 
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