Yup, heat on full, if I hadn't opened the windows it'd be like a sauna in there :flame:
Round two after lunch, I will beat this car in submission!
Yup, heat on full, if I hadn't opened the windows it'd be like a sauna in there :flame:
Round two after lunch, I will beat this car in submission!
Duncp73
New Member
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
As far as I'm led to believe the coolant flow through the heater matrix is open all the time - and the heater controls simply vary the air-flow through the matrix.
I reckon it's completely impossible to bleed the system properly with only one go at it.
As I said it took me a week before the last of the air was out.
This is the reason that folks who get the coolant changed by a garage - who will dutifully bleed the system (hopefully) - complain of reduced heater efficiency within a few days.
Tiny bubbles of air get trapped and collect overnight in the heater matrix and at the highest point - the bleed screw.
Just like a domestic heating system - after a drain and refill you need to check it after a while.
I reckon it's completely impossible to bleed the system properly with only one go at it.
As I said it took me a week before the last of the air was out.
This is the reason that folks who get the coolant changed by a garage - who will dutifully bleed the system (hopefully) - complain of reduced heater efficiency within a few days.
Tiny bubbles of air get trapped and collect overnight in the heater matrix and at the highest point - the bleed screw.
Just like a domestic heating system - after a drain and refill you need to check it after a while.
SV,
That makes sense, the radiator top hose will be with me on Monday, so doing this to keep me going over the weekend. Once the new hose arrives I think I might get it fitted and get a coolant change done, there's a Land Rover garage 2 minutes from me, my father has used them for his eldlerly Jag and found them really good and same price as non-approved garage he previously used - U guess the recession has made them sharpen up their act & be competitive.
I'm encouraged that the system has taken in some water from expansion tank so seems I have managed to bleed some of the air.
That makes sense, the radiator top hose will be with me on Monday, so doing this to keep me going over the weekend. Once the new hose arrives I think I might get it fitted and get a coolant change done, there's a Land Rover garage 2 minutes from me, my father has used them for his eldlerly Jag and found them really good and same price as non-approved garage he previously used - U guess the recession has made them sharpen up their act & be competitive.
I'm encouraged that the system has taken in some water from expansion tank so seems I have managed to bleed some of the air.
The saga continues, had top radiator hose & got coolant system drained and refilled (pressure filled to avoid air locks). After test drive the bottom radiator hose was cold, mechanic reckons thermostat is knackered. Head & wallet will be wrecked from this. Fingers crossed I'll be back on the road tomorrow.
NeilTD4
Active Member
Could I just check, is the bleed screw is the one shown on the black hose:
and not the one shown below:
Sorry for being such a noob and pain. I am capable of the work but it's a long time since I did such work and just can't afford to buy a Haynes manual at the moment
Looking at your first pic of the bleed screw you'll see the vacuum pipe running l to r, well there should be a clip on the bulkhead for it there somewhere
I know it doesn't help with your issue
One thing to keep an eye in my experience is the plastic clip together joints used in some of the hoses. I had one separate, but caught it in time
Looking at your first pic of the bleed screw you'll see the vacuum pipe running l to r, well there should be a clip on the bulkhead for it there somewhere
I know it doesn't help with your issue
One thing to keep an eye in my experience is the plastic clip together joints used in some of the hoses. I had one separate, but caught it in time
Neil,
Thanks for spotting that, just going to collect the car now, so I'll make sure to get the vacuum pipe clipped up.
Thermostat has been replaced, car road tested on motorway and I'm told everything is operating properly & as expected, the old thermostat was indeed fooked.
Got my car back and she seems to be fine from a coolant point of view, mind you it hurt my wallet big time to the tune of €477 (£396).
While Land Rover had the car they did a "Vehicle Health Check" something they do with all cars the work on to alert customers to the Irish equivalent of the MOT, my next MOT is October. The list did not make nice reading:
Items requiring urgent attention:
Replace all flexi brake pipes €175 (£145)
Replace all brake pipes (rusty) €273 (£225)
Transfer box pinion badly damaged & very noisy - replace €55 (£45)
Rear diff pinioseal leaking €52 (£43)
I'm not in a position to do that work myself, so need to start scheduling the work done, thinking getting it done in stages, starting with Transfer Box Pinion & Rear diff pinioseal.
Other items:
Reverse lights not working €87 (£72)
Brake light (OSR) not working €81 (£67)
As it's only one brake light, naturally first check will be bulb(s).
With the reverse lights, I had clutch replaced very soon after getting the car, one thing I noticed (but haven't checked out) is that before the clutch was done, when I had front wipers on and put car in reverse the rear wiper came on. After the clutch was replaced, this no longer worked/happened, so I'm wondering if it something simple like a connector not reconnected after the work. Can anyone advise if there is a connector related to reverse lights and possibly rear wiper (the wiper does work when I turn it on from dashboard switch).
Feeling torn at the moment between, getting the work done and having a car that should then be ok or calling it quits on this car and trade it in against either a Disco or another Freelander.
One other thing Land Rover mentioned is that the engine oil level was "way over max" I haven't added any oil since buying the car, so it was like this when I go it, Land Rover have drained oil to bring it down to max level. This has me wondering if the previous owner or garage I bought from had add oil to try hide something, can't think what.
I reckon I'll be investing in a haynes manual very soon, well as soon as my wallet recovers.
While Land Rover had the car they did a "Vehicle Health Check" something they do with all cars the work on to alert customers to the Irish equivalent of the MOT, my next MOT is October. The list did not make nice reading:
Items requiring urgent attention:
Replace all flexi brake pipes €175 (£145)
Replace all brake pipes (rusty) €273 (£225)
Transfer box pinion badly damaged & very noisy - replace €55 (£45)
Rear diff pinioseal leaking €52 (£43)
I'm not in a position to do that work myself, so need to start scheduling the work done, thinking getting it done in stages, starting with Transfer Box Pinion & Rear diff pinioseal.
Other items:
Reverse lights not working €87 (£72)
Brake light (OSR) not working €81 (£67)
As it's only one brake light, naturally first check will be bulb(s).
With the reverse lights, I had clutch replaced very soon after getting the car, one thing I noticed (but haven't checked out) is that before the clutch was done, when I had front wipers on and put car in reverse the rear wiper came on. After the clutch was replaced, this no longer worked/happened, so I'm wondering if it something simple like a connector not reconnected after the work. Can anyone advise if there is a connector related to reverse lights and possibly rear wiper (the wiper does work when I turn it on from dashboard switch).
Feeling torn at the moment between, getting the work done and having a car that should then be ok or calling it quits on this car and trade it in against either a Disco or another Freelander.
One other thing Land Rover mentioned is that the engine oil level was "way over max" I haven't added any oil since buying the car, so it was like this when I go it, Land Rover have drained oil to bring it down to max level. This has me wondering if the previous owner or garage I bought from had add oil to try hide something, can't think what.
I reckon I'll be investing in a haynes manual very soon, well as soon as my wallet recovers.
Last edited:
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
Yes a bit disappointing report there.
It's only too easy to be fooled into thinking the oil level is low and pouring in unneccesary oil. Which is possibly what a previous owner may have done.
It's best to check the level when the vehicle is cold, preferably having sat overnight.
Even if you wait 4 or 5 minutes with a warm engine the dip-stick still gives a level that would lead you to believe a half litre or more is needed.
I hope for your sake that is what has happened - but obviously keep an eye on it.
Good luck with the fixes needed.
It's only too easy to be fooled into thinking the oil level is low and pouring in unneccesary oil. Which is possibly what a previous owner may have done.
It's best to check the level when the vehicle is cold, preferably having sat overnight.
Even if you wait 4 or 5 minutes with a warm engine the dip-stick still gives a level that would lead you to believe a half litre or more is needed.
I hope for your sake that is what has happened - but obviously keep an eye on it.
Good luck with the fixes needed.
Turns out, none of the brake lights were working. Got new brake switch & cable assy, replaced it myself in 10 minutes thanks to the "3 Amigo brake light switch replacement Guide" here on Landyzone, lights now working as is HDC which hadn't been working.
This place is a bloody lifesaver!
Next stop, reverse switch, then the bigger bits, for which I'll be getting a friendly mechanic.
This place is a bloody lifesaver!
Next stop, reverse switch, then the bigger bits, for which I'll be getting a friendly mechanic.
