Hi Chris hope your well
Did mine about a month ago:rolleyes: 2mm plate sliced by metal man 70mm wide 1mt in length ! but I did't cut floor out so had to work between wheel arch:mad:
Get the corners cut out right back to the tube plate & lay a piece of 70mm that's 20mm longer than back plate(each side) lay over top chssis clamp down & weld In , then out of 70mm cut 2 angles & weld in then a front cover ! job done ! Simples:rolleyes:
Mine ended up smaller than original because of the room I had to work in but yours should end up proper size ! give or take a mill or 2 !:rolleyes:
Can't see the point in cutting the rot out & butt welding as your not going to be putting truck in any beauty comps are you ????:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::p

Steve
 
It's not for prettyness steve - the whole point is to remove as much rust as possible to stop it coming back worse.
 
Hi saltlick
Not tryin to tell Chris how to suck eggs COS he's doin a GREAT job ! The motors at least 20 years old may be less ???? BUT the only reason it's rotted out there is because of the stupid holes that LR put in the chassis:eek::eek::mad::mad: Chris is going to renew that part with NO holes so how can it rott out again ??:p

Steve
 
The rust doesn't need holes if it's already in there - hence why it all needs removing or at least treating.
There's no point in putting virgin steel over a patch of rust and sealing it all up with weld is there?
It's a good job so far though, yes...
Chris, is your mig up to 3mm plate? Only reason is some of the other welds look a little cold to me..
 
Treat it yes ! Cut out if that's the way Chris wont's to go ? But I wouldn't Butt weld a new piece in ! I would clean top of chassis up & go over the top & rebuild from there !

Steve
 
And if you wont to keep rot & water out ! 041.JPG 042.JPG 043.JPG 044.JPG 045.JPG

Steve
 
Hmm... I'm thinking water trap! I think I'd rather go for decent zinc etch primer, then epoxy mastic and stone chip etc. But each to thier own!
 
Don't wont to hijack Chris's post :eek:
Don's see how it's a water trap ? as it was put on with a hot air gun & a roller so it's stuck like sh*t to a blanket:eek::eek:
Why do you think they rot out ?my view is that the under seal put on by LR & previous owners chips with stones hitting it over the age of the motor ! that's how water gets in & rots them out
Hopefully the Flash band being Bichermin baste & having a skin over the top may make it more weather proof ! Will have to wait & see ! But if it means I dont have to get the welder out for the next 5/6 years that's a result !:rolleyes::p

Steve
 
thanks for your comments guys......I can see merit in both methods, but I will be cutting out and butt welding.

was going to cut it out this afternoon, but my grinder packed up.....seems to have a dicky connection where the cable goes into the unit. went to b+q and got a cheap one , will strip the other one down over the weeked, and if I can repair it i'll have one for cutting and one for grinding .......... there's posh !!!
 
I spose if that's on top of sound paint, then ok, , I'd just worry about all the exposed edges making gaps/opportunity to store water. I guess if it was covered in a coat of Shultz then that would cover that base off nicely...

How long has it been on there? Does the sunroof drain exit somewhere there?
 
Naa 3's posh ! 1 for cutting & grinding & 2 with nasty wire wheels on for getting rid of rust & crud ! the worst part about 3 is getting all the F/in wires tangled up :eek::rolleyes: LOL

Steve
 
image.jpeg
Saltlick, its the bit on the top of the chassis that is attached to the round crossmember behind second row of seats. theres no sunroof drain off. its just another one of those places prone to rot.:(
 
Chrisw8 said:
View attachment 103695 Saltlick, its the bit on the top of the chassis that is attached to the round crossmember behind second row of seats. theres no sunroof drain off. its just another one of those places prone to rot.:(
Click to expand...
sorry I was referring to the drain in the rear arch that has been covered over with flash band on Steve's disco.

I've got the same crossmember rot to weld up on my 96 D1 too, though my boot floor is good so I'll just slice up the rear bulkhead for access
 
Chrisw8 said:
thanks for your comments guys......I can see merit in both methods, but I will be cutting out and butt welding.

was going to cut it out this afternoon, but my grinder packed up.....seems to have a dicky connection where the cable goes into the unit. went to b+q and got a cheap one , will strip the other one down over the weeked, and if I can repair it i'll have one for cutting and one for grinding .......... there's posh !!!
Click to expand...
I bought one of these a few months ago.
upload_2016-7-14_19-4-1.png

40 quid and it's bloomin great. Loads of torque, variable speed, latching power switch and takes 125mm disks. It's really handy for wire wheels as when you set the speed to low it uses the torque to maintain speed. Now I'm real posh too. :p
 

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