Yeah I must admit this is the part I was dreading!

I tried them all and 3 was the one that worked. Was getting good constant FF readings, retrieving height sensor values. But I just can't get a good idle on the damn thing. By tweaking the scroll bars can get it to flash green every couple of seconds but won't stay constant.
I also bought one of those eas kickers as a backup to keep in the glovebox, that had no effect either ;( Will get there I'm sure
 
I think Saint.V8 and Datatek both have experience playing with that program. I think some of the USB adapters can cause issues. Nanocom a lot (£300+) but if you check Landyzone International Rescue there might be someone close. Check the ODB plug is clean with no verdigree. Sometimes the connector behind the kick-panel gets corroded too.
 
  1. What windows version do you have ?
  2. Do you have other serial drivers still installed ? (they can & do conflict with each other)
  3. What else is running on the laptop ? (get rid of "driver cleaner" type utilities)
  4. Make sure you are using the USB-Serial Chip vendor's driver, and NOT one of the "copies" from generic download sites.
  5. What's the HW ID shown in the Windows Device Manager ?
  6. Remove ALL previous serial drivers, and ONLY install the correct version for your HW.
  7. Then Re-Install the correct driver before you plug the cable in (this stops windows trying to use generic driver.)
  8. Plug in the USB-Serial
Do make sure you clean the connector as recommended above (all pins)

FYI, I use several different USB-Serial cables for work (not EAS), on Mac & Windoze Laptops, and have definitely found driver conflicts cause problems. EAS-Unlock works well on Win-XP, Win-7 & Virtual Windows on Mac, provided you get the correct driver.
 
When i used EASunlock i had a dedicated steam drive Dell with a serial port. Connected every time without an issue. The ACER i have with a usb port i have never been able to connect with. Didn't try very hard though just used the Dell. Less hassle. USB adaptors are a pain in the arse with EASunlock. But as said you MUST load the driver BEFORE plugging the EASunlock into the laptop. Then select the port that driver is on.
 
Another couple of hours on it tonight. I'm about ready to throw in the towel. Have spent close to a grand now and f%#k knows how many hours and all I've done is make the thing a very expensive paperweight.

I have been using a Panasonic Toughbook CF-52 laptop with its serial port. Running Windows 7. I have also tried using a USB adapter which I installed the drivers for before I plugged it in. I have also tried running the EAS software in XP SP3 through programme comparability mode. I have checked that the laptops serial port is configured for RTS/CTS transmission.

There is zero corrosion/moisture on the back of the OBD port or anywhere near it.

Has anyone got instructions on something I'm supposed to be doing that I'm not to achieve a good idle or should it just work?

Would anyone be interested in a 30th anniversary 2001 available as a going concern or fitted with coils?? :( 140k, 6 month old prinns vsi 2.0 LPG system fitted by approved installer and still warrantied. Full ignition system replaced inc Magnecor leads, new shocks, brakes, tyres, exhaust and full BECM rebuild (CallRova) in the last 12 months/5k miles. Part ex for a 3.9 classic.
 
You cant throw the towel in yet, you must be so close to the end result, its got to be something silly not right, you will get there and it will be worth it.
 
May be worth a visit to Storey Wilson's web site? Sorry I cant remember his website name
 
Thanks, I've put my dummy back in for now. I think the wines helping?!

Doesn't help that my weekend car that was going to be used as the back up RR during the EAS saga took place is now also out of order:(

This is the 3rd problem I've found which could indicate why the coils where fitted.
1. Piston seal shredded in compressor.
2. Leaking nsr air pipe.
3. No Comms thru OBD....

I have tried it with a separate laptop, no comms, re-downloaded the software, stood on one leg, faced into a light north easterly breeze and no change.

Reading into the how to's for installing coils, some folk unplug a EAS ECU under the passenger seat, and also a yellow delay relay to disable the eas.
I'm hoping that these are both disconnected and that explains my lack of comms. Will remove the passenger seat and investigate further and report back.
Currently still open to offers......:D
 
PastyMuncher83 said:
Thanks, I've put my dummy back in for now. I think the wines helping?!

Doesn't help that my weekend car that was going to be used as the back up RR during the EAS saga took place is now also out of order:(

This is the 3rd problem I've found which could indicate why the coils where fitted.
1. Piston seal shredded in compressor.
2. Leaking nsr air pipe.
3. No Comms thru OBD....

I have tried it with a separate laptop, no comms, re-downloaded the software, stood on one leg, faced into a light north easterly breeze and no change.

Reading into the how to's for installing coils, some folk unplug a EAS ECU under the passenger seat, and also a yellow delay relay to disable the eas.
I'm hoping that these are both disconnected and that explains my lack of comms. Will remove the passenger seat and investigate further and report back.
Currently still open to offers......:D
Click to expand...

I will give you a Mars bar, a quarter of Midget gems (No black ones) a banana and a packet of Quavers for it. :D
 
What size is the mars bar? Don't wanna get mugged of with a fun size. Let me think about it, depending on how tomorrow goes I may accept :cool:
 
pwood999 said:
  1. What windows version do you have ?
  2. Do you have other serial drivers still installed ? (they can & do conflict with each other)
  3. What else is running on the laptop ? (get rid of "driver cleaner" type utilities)
  4. Make sure you are using the USB-Serial Chip vendor's driver, and NOT one of the "copies" from generic download sites.
  5. What's the HW ID shown in the Windows Device Manager ?
  6. Remove ALL previous serial drivers, and ONLY install the correct version for your HW.
  7. Then Re-Install the correct driver before you plug the cable in (this stops windows trying to use generic driver.)
  8. Plug in the USB-Serial
Do make sure you clean the connector as recommended above (all pins)

FYI, I use several different USB-Serial cables for work (not EAS), on Mac & Windoze Laptops, and have definitely found driver conflicts cause problems. EAS-Unlock works well on Win-XP, Win-7 & Virtual Windows on Mac, provided you get the correct driver.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. Ive been using a reconditioned Panasonic Toughbook CF-52 which I've just bought second hand with a genuine fresh install of Windows 7. Went for this as it has a RS323 port for this task.

I have thus far managed to resist downloading any Russian bride search programmes or entered the Kenyan lottery on it just left it purely dedicated to this one task ;) How important is it to have the cable screw fitted to the port, if you know what I mean? The cable fits obviously, but doesn't have the male threaded studs to attach it.
I may be clutching at straw with this one!
 
Keep going Pastymuncher, you sometimes have to go through these trials of patience with the P38. I think that is what keeps every owner to go back to them time and time again.
They can be a pain at times, but luxury motoring when they are running .
Keep up the good work :):)
 
PastyMuncher83 said:
How important is it to have the cable screw fitted to the port, if you know what I mean? The cable fits obviously, but doesn't have the male threaded studs to attach it.
I may be clutching at straw with this one!
Click to expand...

As long as the plug is well seated, the lack of the fixing studs shouldn't make a difference - they are just there to stop the plug pulling out.

Sorry - I would love to be able to say that that was the problem!

Good luck.

Pete
 
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