Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
I'll pull the old one to bits and post some pics once I've got the new one on. Suspect the bore must be shot / heavy rust / pitting on the cylinder.
I'm pretty sure I cheaped out when I bought the rear calipers way back when I refurbished the axles. I know the fronts were brand new old stock LR items that I picked up at Peterbog, but suspect these were ebay specials... honestly can't remember now.
The replacement one isn't genuine, but a decent quality German replacement part.
Wonder where the s#@t part one come from ? The (L/H caliper) Allmakes box says country of origin GB.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Probably a good call to be honest on replacing rears. I'll keep the genuine fronts, had no issues with the pistons on those.
The previous calipers that I had were genuine and tbh were very grotty, I did rebuild those once in their time with me, but they were pretty darned ugly. Because I was building up brand new axles to swap in with some very shiny diffs I wanted all new replacements and I got bnib front ones for very little money (like 50 quid each at the time including genuine pads).
The previous calipers that I had were genuine and tbh were very grotty, I did rebuild those once in their time with me, but they were pretty darned ugly. Because I was building up brand new axles to swap in with some very shiny diffs I wanted all new replacements and I got bnib front ones for very little money (like 50 quid each at the time including genuine pads).
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Fitted the replacement caliper.
Pic of new and old... old one is super scabby, I painted it with high temp paint when I first fitted it, road salt and heat has seen it off.
I had to punch the piston out using a BFH via the cable port, tried twisting it out with pump pliers but it just would not budge. Even with the BFH (Thor copper/hide 4lb hammer) it was a bit of a chore.
I expected a lot of rust, but what was on there looked like black rock hard rubber and a little bit of scoring where that was embedded...
The inside of the piston seal look to be rusty, I pulled it out and the land between it and the inner wiper o-ring was rusted as hell, so I guess it's been forcing the rubber/o-ring hard onto the piston. You can also see where the piston has been wearing against the bore.
Anyhow, job jobbed, new caliper bled up super easily and the brakes feel 'better' - might just be psychological, we'll see.
Pic of new and old... old one is super scabby, I painted it with high temp paint when I first fitted it, road salt and heat has seen it off.
I had to punch the piston out using a BFH via the cable port, tried twisting it out with pump pliers but it just would not budge. Even with the BFH (Thor copper/hide 4lb hammer) it was a bit of a chore.
I expected a lot of rust, but what was on there looked like black rock hard rubber and a little bit of scoring where that was embedded...
The inside of the piston seal look to be rusty, I pulled it out and the land between it and the inner wiper o-ring was rusted as hell, so I guess it's been forcing the rubber/o-ring hard onto the piston. You can also see where the piston has been wearing against the bore.
Anyhow, job jobbed, new caliper bled up super easily and the brakes feel 'better' - might just be psychological, we'll see.
Be interesting to see if the fuel consumption changes, for the better of course 
.
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Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Yup, but I think it's probably wishful thinkingBe interesting to see if the fuel consumption changes, for the better of course
About fuel consumption.... I've built an arduino based system that connects to the ECU, reads rpm, speed, and injection quantity and calculates a litres per 100k figure.
I need to spend some time to brush up the code to give MPG, trip counter, and fuel consumed - but will post details of it in here when done (with links to instructions / github repo for anyone wanting to make their own).
Pretty sure you can buy stuff off the shelf to do this, but the ones I've seen are pretty dear considering all the parts come to maybe 15-20 quid.
Yes please keep us posted. My D2 2001 TD5 auto bog std except for stage 1 Alive remap does about 22mpg, general running about & about 25-27 on a run. Out of interest what mpg do you get out of yours ? All the best.Yup, but I think it's probably wishful thinking
About fuel consumption.... I've built an arduino based system that connects to the ECU, reads rpm, speed, and injection quantity and calculates a litres per 100k figure.
I need to spend some time to brush up the code to give MPG, trip counter, and fuel consumed - but will post details of it in here when done (with links to instructions / github repo for anyone wanting to make their own).
Pretty sure you can buy stuff off the shelf to do this, but the ones I've seen are pretty dear considering all the parts come to maybe 15-20 quid.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
To be honest, I'm simply not doing many miles these days, ~ 6k for the last 2 years, prior to that I was doing well over 10k a year so it was more important to try and be reasonable on fuel spending.
If I hoof it I get around 370 miles to a full tank... it's a 90 litre tank but I think the most I ever managed to top it up by is ~ 85litres. On a long run I'd get about 470. Somewhere in-between if I drive like miss daisy.
1 UK gallon is 4.546 litres... so....
85/4.546 = ~18.7 Gallons
370/18.7 = 19.78mpg
470/18.7 = 25.13mpg
My tyres are larger than stock, but I have non stock diff ratios, so my speedo under reports speed by ~ 5% which means that the mileage is also 5% under reported so I'm actually getting a bit better mpg.
Over on the D2 boys club there are people who claim they get well over 600 miles to a tank, I think those people are typically on stock tyres where the speedo over reports speed.
Anyhow their figures put them at a minimum of 32mpg for 600 miles to a tank. LR claimed 30 in their vehicle stats.
I think the tanks are 21 gallons (95 litres). I normally run it to about 380 or 400 miles before refilling. I can't 100% trust the gauge as when I replaced the sender unit I couldn't be bothered to muck about bending the float so the gauge reads very slightly under (better than over reading). Most of my driving is steady but I can't get the 'extra urban' figure in the hand book 31.4mpg for the auto, I wish ! The urban is close depending on use of A/C or in winter, the combined at 27mpg is the best I've had. Mines on 255/55-18 GG's & the speedo is spot on with google maps & those signs that tell you your speed I also run it on premium fuel with Millers diesel additive.
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Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Tank may well nominally be 95 litres but I don't think I've ever been able to get more than 85 added to it, and I get pretty close to running it out of fuel (have run it to empty before). I'm not feeling flush enough to leave that much fuel in it these days, probably get siphoned off round here.
Bit like the Government/petrol retailers siphoning my wallet every time I fill up, bastids.
