Vagabondrobb
Active Member
Jesus. Getting so many flashbacks from looking at all these pics… you are dedicated to the cause!
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Brake disk & pads replacement this weekend - along with a fluid flush.
I did the pads a few months back, but the disks were pretty worn (Drilled & Grooved ones) - front left has started to judder so I've a complete new set of drilled & grooved disks & performance pads to slap in.
Just went with TerraFirma, didn't pay the silly money they want for the 'wavy' disks as I honestly can't see what benefit those could have on a D2.
I did the pads a few months back, but the disks were pretty worn (Drilled & Grooved ones) - front left has started to judder so I've a complete new set of drilled & grooved disks & performance pads to slap in.
Just went with TerraFirma, didn't pay the silly money they want for the 'wavy' disks as I honestly can't see what benefit those could have on a D2.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Managed to get these fitted earlier - frees me some time up for the weekend...
Old vs New - you can see how worn they were and the lip on the edge...
First one fitted, new pads in, sliders re-greased, and fluid bled through, with help from 16yre old son who's finally becoming half useful.
Rinse repeat for the rest.
You can also see the sumo bars that I finally got round to fitting - had them in the shed almost 2 years.
Next upgrade is a LOF clutch slave that's meant to make the clutch a bit lighter, I'll be fitting that along with a Pioneer 4x4 flexible master to slave hose which makes bleeding things up a world easier. Will take some pics when the hose arrives, the slave cylinder again has been in the shed a while
Old vs New - you can see how worn they were and the lip on the edge...
First one fitted, new pads in, sliders re-greased, and fluid bled through, with help from 16yre old son who's finally becoming half useful.
Rinse repeat for the rest.
You can also see the sumo bars that I finally got round to fitting - had them in the shed almost 2 years.
Next upgrade is a LOF clutch slave that's meant to make the clutch a bit lighter, I'll be fitting that along with a Pioneer 4x4 flexible master to slave hose which makes bleeding things up a world easier. Will take some pics when the hose arrives, the slave cylinder again has been in the shed a while
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
My drivers door glass dropped into the door frame a few weeks back mid winding up. The steel clamped to the bottom of the glass that bolts to the winder mechanism had completely rotted out.
Managed to get a spare window for a fiver! Result, and got it replaced.
Here's what the one that came out looked like:
Managed to get a spare window for a fiver! Result, and got it replaced.
Here's what the one that came out looked like:
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Had a god awful squeak from the back of the car for the last 2 weeks, turns out that the spare wheel carrier had cracked all the way around the top left hand bolt.
Probably quite easy to weld it up and put it back on but I think it would go again, because I have flipped it so my larger spare can fit on and not foul the rear wiper arm.
Anyhow, I bought an unfinished heavy duty carrier off ebay:
I had some arc rite zinc rich primer and black tractor enamel paint, so slapped it up after giving it a quick go over with a flap disk and some thinners
The finish is pretty awful as I didn't have any xylene thinners on hand, but the final paint is on thick so it should last longer than the car as it's in 6mm steel
Probably quite easy to weld it up and put it back on but I think it would go again, because I have flipped it so my larger spare can fit on and not foul the rear wiper arm.
Anyhow, I bought an unfinished heavy duty carrier off ebay:
I had some arc rite zinc rich primer and black tractor enamel paint, so slapped it up after giving it a quick go over with a flap disk and some thinners
The finish is pretty awful as I didn't have any xylene thinners on hand, but the final paint is on thick so it should last longer than the car as it's in 6mm steel
Same as Hammerite thinners. In case anyone else needs to know this info!
Trouble is powder coating, like underseal, cracks and then hides stuff underneath. Like rust. It's OK if it never gets touched in anyway by anything.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
I think I prefer galv or paint to powder coat - I have powder coated front & rear HD bumpers, and sidesteps and it's all bubbled up with rust from underneath. Doesn't last 2 minutes with the salt they use on the roads round here.
I painted these as I had it to hand and wanted it on quickly, plus it's not really anywhere that can be seen hiding behind the spare.
Cheers for the hammerite thinners tip ss.
I painted these as I had it to hand and wanted it on quickly, plus it's not really anywhere that can be seen hiding behind the spare.
Cheers for the hammerite thinners tip ss.
My pleasure!
And totally agree!
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Gear selections have been a right pain for a little while, I snagged a new bias plate suspecting the usual cracked off upright and set to work to find my suspicions correct:
Amazing how much crap is in there given that all the gaiters are good.
Whack in the new one and gear changes are much better - well by R380 standards anyway.
Amazing how much crap is in there given that all the gaiters are good.
Whack in the new one and gear changes are much better - well by R380 standards anyway.
Pawl
Well-Known Member
Your gear lever seems well worn where the bias springs rub against it.
It was almost 5mm deep on either side of mine, so I filled the grooves with weld & filed it back to smooth.
The bias springs now stay in contact far better when in 3rd & 4th & the gearchange feels much better. there's also less rattle at idle.
Might be worth doing yours
It was almost 5mm deep on either side of mine, so I filled the grooves with weld & filed it back to smooth.
The bias springs now stay in contact far better when in 3rd & 4th & the gearchange feels much better. there's also less rattle at idle.
Might be worth doing yours
MJI
Well-Known Member
I don't like bias springs, I would be tempted to remove. but at least they enabled me to kill some pool car fords over 30 years ago.
Flat out in first pull gear lever back straight (not into 2nd but into 4th ) clutch hated it, really bad gearboxes.
was
.1.3.5
2.4.R
My own car was Rootes group so had perfect change
Flat out in first pull gear lever back straight (not into 2nd but into 4th ) clutch hated it, really bad gearboxes.
was
.1.3.5
2.4.R
My own car was Rootes group so had perfect change
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Yeah that plate is a major weakness in what's already not a great solution, I had a slickshift fitted which has a much stronger support post, but for some reason it did not get along with my gearbox, I ended up with the selector ball being forced out of the plastic bush twice - first time I had to drop the box to retrieve it, second time I managed to fish it out with the aid of an endoscopic camera. No idea if it's just me who had these issues with the D2 slickshift.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
OK, so only 20 months after swapping all the brake disks & pads out, I had a really bad rumbling from the rear right of the car.
Whipped off the wheel to find that the pads are super low, the inboard one is down to metal and has severely damaged the disk.
Checked the passenger side and it looks brand new, hardly any wear on the pad.
The sliders are free and greased.
Need to use the car this w/e so went to local factors and got absolutely stung for a set of pads and replacement rear disks - like more than double that I would've been able to get them online for. Still, that's what you pay for instant gratification right, didn't even get a happy ending!
Anyhow, looks like I also need a new offside caliper, the piston was an absolute bastard to wind in, suspecting a brake line issue I undid the bleed nipple and it got no easier. In the end I had to wind it in using a threaded G-clamp, using a pair of pump pliers to turn the screw in... way too hard. So I can drive ok for the next day or so but have also ordered a new caliper to swap in hopefully on Monday.
This might explain why the car slows down at coast quite so much, and hopefully I may find my fuel economy increases!
A few photos....
Drivers side rear disk:
Passenger side, which has practically no wear:
Pad comparison, passenger side left, drivers right:
Whipped off the wheel to find that the pads are super low, the inboard one is down to metal and has severely damaged the disk.
Checked the passenger side and it looks brand new, hardly any wear on the pad.
The sliders are free and greased.
Need to use the car this w/e so went to local factors and got absolutely stung for a set of pads and replacement rear disks - like more than double that I would've been able to get them online for. Still, that's what you pay for instant gratification right, didn't even get a happy ending!
Anyhow, looks like I also need a new offside caliper, the piston was an absolute bastard to wind in, suspecting a brake line issue I undid the bleed nipple and it got no easier. In the end I had to wind it in using a threaded G-clamp, using a pair of pump pliers to turn the screw in... way too hard. So I can drive ok for the next day or so but have also ordered a new caliper to swap in hopefully on Monday.
This might explain why the car slows down at coast quite so much, and hopefully I may find my fuel economy increases!
A few photos....
Drivers side rear disk:
Passenger side, which has practically no wear:
Pad comparison, passenger side left, drivers right:
